fmic thin fan

[crazyboost]

I'm installing a fmic and need a slimmer fan. Has anyone heard of pro comp before? Here is an ebay link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Proc...ewItemQQcategoryZ33600QQitemZ8033737134QQrdZ1

Any other cheap suggestions? can i run w/o the ac fan if im not gonna use the ac? thanks

 

[MrBoxx]

I run a 12" Pro-Comp fan in place of my stock radiator fan. It works pretty well. Since there's not a giant shroud like the stock fan, it seems to pull less air, but I wired the AC fan and the radiator fan to come on at the same time when either one turns on. This way if the slim fan isn't enough to cool it down, the AC fan helps out. Eventually I'll replace that one with another slim fan too.

If you never use your AC, you can get away with removing the AC fan and hope that the slim-line is enough for your cooling needs. Some people have had experiences where the unshrouded slim fans don't pull enough air and the car will run hotter than normal or overheat.

 

[BaddAssGst]

I run a 12" Pro-Comp fan in place of my stock radiator fan. It works pretty well. Since there's not a giant shroud like the stock fan, it seems to pull less air, but I wired the AC fan and the radiator fan to come on at the same time when either one turns on. This way if the slim fan isn't enough to cool it down, the AC fan helps out. Eventually I'll replace that one with another slim fan too.

If you never use your AC, you can get away with removing the AC fan and hope that the slim-line is enough for your cooling needs. Some people have had experiences where the unshrouded slim fans don't pull enough air and the car will run hotter than normal or overheat.

+1. I tried running with one slim line and it just didn't move enough air. I was still running at 218-224 degrees. I hooked up the other fan as an A/C fan and my temps went from 220 down to about 202 degrees.

Now I just have to hope Slowboy's j-pipe clears the stock fan, which it looks like it will.

 

[MrBoxx]

Just remembered I had a pic of the fan on my car, and I'll even include the wiring instructions, because that would have been your next question once you got the fan.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

On the stock fan, keep the plastic connector plugged in. Cut the wires on the fan side of the plug so you have a couple inches to work with.

Connect the blue wire on the Pro-Comp fan to the blue wire and the green wire from the plug.

Connect the black wire on the Pro-Comp fan to the yellow wire and the black wire from the plug.

To make the connections, I just used standard male/female spade connectors. You can kinda see how I did it in the picture. By keeping the stock fan's plug in the system, it makes it easy if you ever have to take the fan out if you change radiators or something. All you'll have to do is just unplug it.

And if you want to do the radiator fan+AC fan modification, there's a vfaq that I followed. This includes a switch to override the ECU control of the fans, so you can turn them both on when you want to and leave them on for as long as you like. But remember to turn the switch off, since they will run even with the car off.

BTW, I bought my slim-fan from Autozone for $70, so if you can get it cheaper on ebay, by all means, you may want to go for it.

Have fun!

 

[gSx_r1der]

+1. I tried running with one slim line and it just didn't move enough air. I was still running at 218-224 degrees. I hooked up the other fan as an A/C fan and my temps went from 220 down to about 202 degrees.

Now I just have to hope Slowboy's j-pipe clears the stock fan, which it looks like it will.

I had this problem with the 14" sbr slimline fan, when I was in stop and go traffic in san diego weather my car would overheat on the freeway untill I started moving and allowing air to reach the radiator. So I just reinstalled the old ac fan and hooked up the sbr slim fan to the ac fan and instead of running the switch to give you the ability to control it I just push the ac buttom on and run it all the time(my ac is removed so this works for me)This allows me to run the heat as well. Nice mod I control the fans with my ac buttom/switch.

 

[dnhieu]

i just got threw installing my fmic and i have 2 of thoes 12" fans always running, wetter water, and no thermostat (tried as temp fix) and my car is still overheating. but im still running a/c which im about to remove and maybe cut some holes in the bumper to allow a little more air threw. if that doesnt work i dotn know what will........


hope that helps
david

 

[gSx_r1der]

i just got threw installing my fmic and i have 2 of thoes 12" fans always running, wetter water, and no thermostat (tried as temp fix) and my car is still overheating. but im still running a/c which im about to remove and maybe cut some holes in the bumper to allow a little more air threw. if that doesnt work i dotn know what will........


hope that helps
david

Dude you have a cooling system problem this has nothing to do with your fmic, or air traveling to your radiator. Check all your hoses for leaks and make sure you system is holding the pressure in the hoses. If the coolant is not pressurized it has a lower boiling point which means your car will overheat, if it is pressurized (which is good and how it should be) then it will have a higher boiling point. Check your cooling system over.

 

[dnhieu]

Dude you have a cooling system problem this has nothing to do with your fmic, or air traveling to your radiator. Check all your hoses for leaks and make sure you system is holding the pressure in the hoses. If the coolant is not pressurized it has a lower boiling point which means your car will overheat, if it is pressurized (which is good and how it should be) then it will have a higher boiling point. Check your cooling system over.

When i squeeze my upper radiator hose its doesnt have as much pressure as my other dsm. their are no visable signs of a fluid leak tho. could that mean that the water pump isnt working up to par?

thanks
david

 

[gSx_r1der]

When i squeeze my upper radiator hose its doesnt have as much pressure as my other dsm. their are no visable signs of a fluid leak tho. could that mean that the water pump isnt working up to par?

thanks
david

Or your cooling system just isnt holding any pressure, check your cap near your thermostat housing. That is usually a piece of sh1t and likes to fall apart on our cars. Mine just went bad a few months ago.Check the rubber piece inside. Cheap fix and self explainitory.

 

[dnhieu]

but wouldnt i visably see fluid comming out from the cap? i will do a swap tonight and see if that works. if it does your the man an i will DEFINETLY be leaving rep points.

 

[a_scobel]

but wouldnt i visably see fluid comming out from the cap? i will do a swap tonight and see if that works. if it does your the man an i will DEFINETLY be leaving rep points.

When is the last time you replaced the cap on your Tstat?

 

[dnhieu]

HAHAHAHAHA i just bought the car and its got 145k on it with a motor with 86k on it for 2k with a blown clutch. i doubt its even been changed. can i just go to the local autoparts store and buy a new one?

thanks again guys
david

 

[gSx_r1der]

HAHAHAHAHA i just bought the car and its got 145k on it with a motor with 86k on it for 2k with a blown clutch. i doubt its even been changed. can i just go to the local autoparts store and buy a new one?

thanks again guys
david

As for an autozone just go and tell em what year make and model you have and they should have it.

 

[dnhieu]

what about the whole deal about seeing water pouring out of the thermostat housing tho? i know if the radiator cap isnt on tight that it will cause a car to over heat but when i did it i cant remember if water was comming out or not. i know in this case its not comming out at all.

thanks
david

 

[gSx_r1der]

what about the whole deal about seeing water pouring out of the thermostat housing tho? i know if the radiator cap isnt on tight that it will cause a car to over heat but when i did it i cant remember if water was comming out or not. i know in this case its not comming out at all.

thanks
david

I really dont understand what your saying but it doesnt matter if anything is coming out of the cap, mine had nothing comeing out but it wasnt sealing properly which means the water inside the cooling system will boil at a lower temp instead of a higher temp which is bad. So get a new cap and check back in with us. Water wont come out, it just wont hold 13psi or so to keep the cooling system completely sealed.

 

[dnhieu]

yeah i was talking about fluid comming out of the cap. i assumed that if its bad it would leak but apparently not. i will go buy a new one tonight. THANKS MAN!

 

[dnhieu]

okay i just changed the radiator cap with a brand new one. it seemed like it helped a little bit. i got a really bad boost leak and i shouldnt be driving it but i drove it from my house to tyndall bridge (a bridge near my house) and it maintained 160 degrees (its pretty cold out tonight) all the way to binita bay (another place by my house). i parked it and looked under the hood and i realized the fans were not running well it sits their and it gets up to 190! so im like no biggie i get the fans to work and i go back on the road. it then maintains 199-203 all the way past o'rileys and it starts to get a little hot. well i get to my house and its now at 219 with no thermostat. i looked at my turbo and it was glowing red from the boost leak i have. i wonder if the heat from the turbo minus the lower heat shield is what made it get so hot. it was running fine all the way up the bridge untill i parked it.

 

[gSx_r1der]

okay i just changed the radiator cap with a brand new one. it seemed like it helped a little bit. i got a really bad boost leak and i shouldnt be driving it but i drove it from my house to tyndall bridge (a bridge near my house) and it maintained 160 degrees (its pretty cold out tonight) all the way to binita bay (another place by my house). i parked it and looked under the hood and i realized the fans were not running well it sits their and it gets up to 190! so im like no biggie i get the fans to work and i go back on the road. it then maintains 199-203 all the way past o'rileys and it starts to get a little hot. well i get to my house and its now at 219 with no thermostat. i looked at my turbo and it was glowing red from the boost leak i have. i wonder if the heat from the turbo minus the lower heat shield is what made it get so hot. it was running fine all the way up the bridge untill i parked it.

Dude why are you driving around without your fans working??? You realize when you stop there is no means for air meeting the radiator??? So without out the fans at a stop how is air supposed to hit the radiator?? ITs not your right.

 

[dnhieu]

Dude why are you driving around without your fans working??? You realize when you stop there is no means for air meeting the radiator??? So without out the fans at a stop how is air supposed to hit the radiator?? ITs not your right.

i was driving and the coolant temps were 160 and i pulled over to MAKE SURE everything was running right. well apparently everything wasnt working right so i let the car idle and i dunno why but the fans just turned on???i had the heater on so i thought both fans were supposed to run non stop but i guess if the coolant temps are too low they dont run? this was the first time it did this so i guess i gotta check for a loose connection tomorrow.

 

[4gsx63]

i was driving and the coolant temps were 160 and i pulled over to MAKE SURE everything was running right. well apparently everything wasnt working right so i let the car idle and i dunno why but the fans just turned on???i had the heater on so i thought both fans were supposed to run non stop but i guess if the coolant temps are too low they dont run? this was the first time it did this so i guess i gotta check for a loose connection tomorrow.

Check for leaks in your radiator. If you're still on stock or aftermarket metal radiator with miles on it, there's a possible chance it could be leaking. My Autozone metal radiator has a leak. Symptoms I had were: overheating/high coolant temp, losing a gallon of coolant every two days, lost coolant pressure (verified via squeezing the upper coolant hose when the car is fully warmed up).

The fix: Fluidyne, custome ducting to force incoming air through the radiator.

Good luck and let us know what your findings.