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Rebuilding a 6bolt... Whats brands to rebuild with???

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99 gst 420a dsm

20+ Year Contributor
509
2
Jan 22, 2003
Turboville, New York
I picked up a 76k mile 6bolt turbo block from the salvage yard, bought nippon std. 2g 8.5:1 pistons/ wrist pins and had the 1g rods machined to spec. What should i have for the rest of the build? Cometic head gasket? ARP head/main studs? What should i run for rings? I'll be using FELPRO gaskets. After the build i will be buying 264 cams, should i replace valve springs also? If so, what brand? Or OEM? Let me know if im missing anything. I want to get this right as i plan to put the engine under a bit of stress in my awd. The rest of the build i have under control i just am not sure what to use on the internals.

Mike
 
Use stock hardware, if you resurface the head/block to like a 20-30RA finish use a mitsu metal HG, use all stock hardware, with ARP your going to need main honing and the rods checked etc, not worth it, stock is more than plenty strong enough. Use stock rings, dont need valve springs unless you plan on revving over stock limit, which would be pointless with the 264's.
 
1fast97gsx said:
what are your goals?


To have a motor thats going to be reliable to like 300-350 horse and hold 18-20 psi. i assumed arp head studs were and oem replacment. the main studs i dont think i need anyway
 
just get arp head studs, everything else can be basically stock oem replacement. 300-350 is nothing for stock parts.
 
anconover said:
just get arp head studs, everything else can be basically stock oem replacement. 300-350 is nothing for stock parts.

You dont think a cometic head gasket is needed? overkill is fine with me, i want the car to last. Plus i still dont know what brand of rings to buy.

Whats the story on Molly rings???
 
would not recomend using felpro on the timing belt side of the motor i have seen 10-15 of the seals just fall apart or leak within a matter of days/weeks and this not due to improper installation it was because they skimped on the seals when they didnt need to. go with oem seals for crank,bs's etc... may cost a little more but its better than getting stranded somewhere because your seals blew out.
 
i1nk83 said:
would not recomend using felpro on the timing belt side of the motor i have seen 10-15 of the seals just fall apart or leak within a matter of days/weeks and this not due to improper installation it was because they skimped on the seals when they didnt need to. go with oem seals for crank,bs's etc... may cost a little more but its better than getting stranded somewhere because your seals blew out.


Thats all in your head. TRW doesnt produce their own oil seals, they repackage NSK seals and sell them in their kits. And nsk make about 60-70% of all oil seals used in foreign manufactured engines.

I woul recommend arp head studs and arp rod bolts. The big end of the rods will need to reconditioned with new bolts. It is only about $15-20 per rod for machine work and worth the added paece of mind. Main studs would definately be overkill in you application. You would probably kill stock pistons and rods before you had a problem or failure with stock main bolts. I would also use a cometic or mitsu mls head gasket to lessen the risk of failure. You may decide to run 22-24 psi at the track later but if not, overbuilt for your goals is better than underbuilt. Besides, most DSM owners I know have had their goals change after they get that "speed" bug ;)
 
IMO, dont bother with rod bolts. Arp rod bolts will distort the rods, and they will probly need to be honed to be sure theyre perfectly round, or else you may cause bearing failure. Stock rod bolts will withstand more than enough for your application.

I HATE the cometic headgaskets. They have a normal, and high pressure gasket, i see them as 1 that pushes a little coolant, and 1 that pushes alot of coolant. Ive always been much more a fan of the mitsubishi 4 layer metal headgasket.

You shouldnt have a problem blowing out a gasket on the timing belt side, ive never seen or heard of such a thing. Unless possibly the case etc was improperly torqued.
 
Yea i am reabuilding just my head and was wanting opinions too I am getting a stock rebuilt head from bj's using arp studs and a mitsu multi layer headgasket that should be fine right now.

I have a fwd eclipse and will probably not ever go over 250-300 hp
 
i would use the stock mitsu head gasket in your application. ive boosted to well over 26 psi with it and it holds fine with good tuning and head studs. these engines are pretty forgiving and over engineered so have fun.
 
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