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New built motor...non-h20 cooled 14b? or 50 trim?

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eclpsegsx12

20+ Year Contributor
214
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Feb 16, 2003
Tucson, Arizona
My motor is ready to go and i have everything but my AGP 50 trim kit which is on the way. I was told numerous times to run a 14b for break in so any metal shavings wont wreck my new turbo. I want some opinions or first hand experiences on what they did. I have everything for the 14b but that means ill have to take everything back off and swich turbos. If i change my oil right away after startup, will i be ok running the AGP turbo? It just seems like a lot of extra work but it is worth it?

Also, about the non-water cooled 14b thing. I have a 14b but i wouldnt be running water through it because i have a NT water neck with no outlets for it when i put the 50 trim on(which is oil cooled only). If i do decide to run the 14b for a while, do i need to block off those passages for coolant thorugh the turbo? It didnt seem logical to me since coolant wont be running through it anyways. I have 2 stock turbo water eye bolts that are in the places for the coolant but it they dont go all the way in anyways because they are too long. Thanks guy.
 
Im no expert on this but i would think that if the 14b turbo is supposed to be water cooled you would more than likely overheat it almost immediately by not running water through it. Probably not a good idea to jus plug the holes. I would say to put an inline oil filter in the feed line (before the turbo) and just drive it ww/ the new turbo and change ur oil, oil filter and inline oil filter at about 2000-2500 miles. But like i said, Im no expert. Lets see what other DSMer's w/ more experience have to say. :talon: :thumb:
 
There's an N/T to Turbo Conversion thread somewhere where the guy used alternate Engine Coolant sources to tap his Turbo Coolant Lines into - T'd into the Heater or Throttle Body hoses maybe? - I can't remember...
 
so what your saying is that you are worried about new engine break in oil damaging your new turbo???......how many people go out and buy a new turbo car such as the new evo 8 and then remove the turbo until the engine is broke in???....none.........unless you have some reason to believe you have excess metal floating around in your oil then you should have no problems with just running the thing normal and changing the break in oil at about 1000 miles (with filter).......only people that have issues with new turbo damage is people that screwed up somewhere along the way and wasted their turbo because of their own stupidity......... :dsm:
 
If you are getting metal shavings going though your turbo I would be more worried about your cylinder walls.
 
ya, thanks i understand that but sometimes junk could be floating around and im not quite sure if i want to risk it. now on to my other question, can i run the 14b non-water cooled?
 
eclpsegsx12 said:
ya, thanks i understand that but sometimes junk could be floating around and im not quite sure if i want to risk it. now on to my other question, can i run the 14b non-water cooled?

If you have "JUNK" floating around you have problems. Just run regular conventional oil during your break in and follow the instructions of the place that built it. You will not end up with a whole lot of shit floating through the oil that will yak your turbo.

No you can not run a 14B non-water cooled you will cook the bearings in a real hurry.
 
Ok. Thanks, i decided to just throw it on now. Ill be sure to change my oil a ton.
 
DSMJim said:
No you can not run a 14B non-water cooled you will cook the bearings in a real hurry.


Wrong. I know lots of people with lots of miles on non-water cooled 14b's, and they are fine.

It may not last 150,000 miles, but it will last 50,00 ot 100,000. Use the proper cool down procedures, and you will be fine.
 
With regard to running a crappy turbo during break in:

A new car, like an EVO, is NOT the same as a rebuilt motor. That's a fact.

If you want to risk killing a new expensive turbo, go ahead and run it. It's your choice.
 
ya, well shit i dunno.....is there ANYONE with first hand experience or does no one have a built dsm????
 
You can run non-watercooled housings on a 14b/16g/18g style turbo. I know a few people that do this. But you will absolutely need to allow for proper cooldown. Do this by using a turbo timer.
As for swapping on the 14b turbo: I would put the 14b on for now and get your car pretty well tuned for it. Its a lot easier to tune with a small turbo than a very large one. Your car will not spit out metal shavings after a rebuild (it may but they should be microscropic), however you do need to give your new valves and piston rings proper time to seat. This means being easy on the motor for around 2000 miles (meaning stock 14b and light driving). This is also when you should get your first oil change BTW.
 
kpt4321 said:
With regard to running a crappy turbo during break in:

A new car, like an EVO, is NOT the same as a rebuilt motor. That's a fact.

If you want to risk killing a new expensive turbo, go ahead and run it. It's your choice.
correct!!!, if the engine is done any where near right it will actually be ten times BETTER than a brand new evo engine when it comes to leaving "junk" in the oil, as all machining is hand done and extreme care in removing factory defects such as flashing have been taken, also much better control over dirty environments are usually put into play during a quality rebuild.....to sum up: you have absolutely nothing to worry about if you did the job right, put the thing together properly and fire it up and break it in, and then change the oil.... I rebuild engines constantly and have'nt lost a victim yet........ :dsm:
 
I would not break in any car with a huge honkin ass turbo, use the 14b.. you can run it "dry" but make sure you use a turbo timer..


its not like yer gonna be getting on it alot ona brand new motor anyway.
 
What do yo mean by loop your water lines?? I'm in the situation where i broke my water line and i cant purchase a new one so i'm going to just run the 16g oil cooled.
 
Block your water lines, it's cleaner, aand there is no reason not to.

Run it with no water, I did it for a few weeks, it no big deal, just turbo time alot, the oil passages are smaller and take longer to cool down.
 
We need a Coolant Flow Chart here but I'm thinking that the Turbo Coolant Line let's Coolant Flow even when the Thermostat is Shut so it's kinda important to NOT just Blank those lines off & instead install a Jumper / Loop line so the Water Pump can still Flow some Coolant somewhere...
 
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