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Built head/stock block, ARP studs, metal head gasket.... Some Q's??

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Mackzero

15+ Year Contributor
595
1
Jan 2, 2004
Moses Lake, Washington
O.k. Guys here is what I have done to the head I bought....

I ported/gasket matched and polished the exhaust ports
I cleaned up the intake ports and gasket matched them
I also took out the casting lines.
The head has 1mm oversized valves in it, new guides and seals, freshly decked. (that is how I bought it)
I put new Crower valve springs and Ti retainers in.
I am using the stock 90 Turbo cams with all new seals, and
New revised lifters.

The block is the stock block with the tops of the pistons polished and casting numbers removed. I also removed the balance shafts. I will be using a stock mits metal head gasket with ARP head studs.

I have a ported 2G manifold to match the exhaust ports exactly. Gasket matched intake manifold, and Mildly ported TB opening.

For chipping I have 2 dsmchips: 1 for 450cc injectors and 1 for 660 Densos. I have not installed them yet. I purchased a new knock sensor also since the block was out of the car. I have not decided which fuel controller to get yet.

Fueling is done with Walbro 255hp and adj. fpr.

I have full polyurathane suspension/body/motor mount bushings, and coil-over suspension with AGXs in front and Konis in the rear. Also, adj. camber plates in the front. Stock 16's with Toyo T1-S tires.

I will be using the 3" O2 elim downpipe from RNR and a 3" SS exhaust from Bruschur. No Cat of course.

I will be putting a custom Frontmount on with piping and blowthrough GM translator setup.

For the tranny I have a 92 GVR4 tranny with 92 shifter assem., 2G shift fork, SS Clutch line, extended push rod, and RPS2600 clutch w/ fidanza flywheel and scatter shield.

My questions are as follows:

1) What turbo is going to give me better overall performace at lower boost levels(14-15 psi.) as well as upper boost levels(20-24 psi.) my setup can handle? It has to bolt up to the factory manifold. My goals for the car are upper 11 sec. or lower 12 sec. passes. I know it will be hard with the gearing of that tranny. I mainly drive on the highway fast, not 1/4 mile. I just want to be able to go race with my buddies every once and a while. :) I do not want to have this car undriveable by my wife.... LOL :thumb: No seriously, I have to be able to turn the boost down, so she can drive it downtown every once and a while....

2) This may be a dumb question, but can I get a turbo that will run at low boost on the factory intercooler setup as well as the stock injectors until I decide which intercooler core I want and injector size. I am wanting to wait for the DSM Link to come out but my 14b it is F'd, and I need to buy a new turbo now to get the car running again....?

Any help is appreciated.
 
I was going to get an EVOIII 16G but with the 12 sec goal I have, I am led to believe I will need a much larger turbo right?
 
I was hopeing to do a GT30r-12 from Slowboy Racing. I could turn the boost down to like 10 psi and regulate it with a nice external gate.... Would that be possible with the stock injectors/afpr/walbro 255?
 
i think the "eastcoast" 20g would be a good deal for you. Plenty of power, the turbo has gone 10's with necessary supporting mods, and decent spoolup. Your wife should be fine at the lower boost levels.
 
Mackzero said:
The block is the stock block with the tops of the pistons polished and casting numbers removed. I also removed the balance shafts. I will be using a stock mits metal head gasket with ARP head studs.

I just recently did a head gasket on my car, I was told that I shouldn't use the mitsu metal gasket unless I got both the head and block decked. I only did the head so I went the the mitsu composite and ARP studs. If you didn't get your block decked you should look into this more.
 
Well, I have a metal and comp. head gasket, my block looks really good actually and I know the the metal head gasket is better. I have had very poor luck with comp. head gaskets on my other motors. I guess I will find out the hard way if I choose the wrong one. ;)
 
Mackzero said:
Well, I have a metal and comp. head gasket, my block looks really good actually and I know the the metal head gasket is better. I have had very poor luck with comp. head gaskets on my other motors. I guess I will find out the hard way if I choose the wrong one. ;)

It's not how the block "looks" that matters .. it's how level it is. Same with the head. 1 unlevel spot and headgasket problems for you. Have them both machined don't take chances.
 
Check the deck surface with a straight edge. Over the winter I had my head rebuilt and had .003 shaved off it to make a nice sealing surface and take out any inconsistancies for my Mitsu MLS headgasket. I just made sure to clean the block deck as good as possible and checked for flatness. I used copper spray and ARP's and haven't had any problems thus far. It's seen a few 26psi passes with the FP green so far this year. And FWIW the bottom end on my car still has 120k on it.
 
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