iLLt3ck
Probationary Member
- 28
- 0
- Aug 30, 2002
-
Round Rock,
Since I always find a plethora of useful information on this site I've decided to continue the trend and make searching for the answers I was searching for much easier with this post.
Keep in mind, these all need to be performed on a level surface.
Drivetrain:
Transmission:
Drain bolt: 24mm
Fill bolt: 17mm
Process: To fill I purchased a funnel and long plastic tube, fed the tube down in the engine bay and into the fill hole, then in this case with 2.3 qt of GM Syncromesh filled the tranny until I could put my pinky in the fill hole and feel fluid.
Transfer Case:
Drain bolt: 24mm
Fill bolt: 17mm
Process: Same as transmission except you will need a longer clear plastic tube to keep things clean.
Rear Differential:
Drain bolt: 24mm
Fill bolt: 24mm
Process: This was a pain at first, but after purchasing a syringe type device used for mixing gasoline it became much easier. Upon searching another DSMer recommended a small metal oil pump. I jacked the car up in the back, filled the large plastic syringe a couple of times with the redline heavy shockproof and once again filled until I could feel fluid in the fill hole with my pinky.
Turbo:
Before turning even one bolt to remove the manifold and turbo, make sure to have both fans already pulled, they are held in by 10mm bolts.
The problem I had was the drain line was not tightened down when I purchased the car, therefore oil had been spewing all over the engine. At this point I didn't know whether or not the turbo was good so I needed to drop the turbo to check it out. After taking the turbo off, which I found easiest to take the exhaust manifold off and have the turbo supported by the downpipe and oil / coolant lines, I cleaned the surface of the drain tube and turbo with brake cleaner and a scrub brush to make sure the mating surface is as clean as you can get it.
Mitsubishi Part numbers:
Oil Return Gasket (need two): MD194403
Oil Return Tube: MD150523
10mm bolts to oil pan (x2): MF101229
10mm bolts to turbo (x2): MF241225
I use Red RTV sealant for both surfaces, and I find it best on the tube to turbo side to squeeze a 1/8th inch bead on the flange including around the bolt holes then smooth it with my finger to make a thin layer of red rtv, wait for a couple of minutes until the rtv is tacky but not solid, then press the gasket onto this surface and repeat the procedure for this surface as well. Make sure when you re-attach the drain tube to the bottom of the turbo with the two 10mm bolts that you do not over tighten and squeeze rtv out of the sides of the gasket. You can always come back later when it's cured and tighten if needed. (cure time specified by manufacturer is 24hrs).
I found it easiest to install the turbo side first, then feed the drain tube to it's position on the oil pan, and repeat the above procedure. At this point it makes it a LOT easier to unbolt the downpipe to have the maneuverability to tighten down the two 10mm holding the tube onto the oil pan itself.
At reinstall you may have difficulty with that bastard of a feed line in the front of the turbo that I believe is a 19mm bolt that has two copper crush washers sealing it onto the feed line, the bolt has a hole in the middle (banjo bolt).
Mitsubishi Part numbers:
Eyebolt (banjo): MF650114
Crush washers: MF660065
Coolant Feed line: MD117764
My frustration stems from trying to get the line itself lined up to the turbo once bolted loosely to the manifold, at the time I still had the passenger fan in which made it a lot harder than I thought. The line had been slanted to the side and faced down making it difficult to line it up to thread the bolt back in. What I ended up doing is removing the pass fan, taking a screw driver and putting it thru the hole at the end and bending the line straight which then made it a lot easier to thread the bolt back in.
Another good tip I found, that I practice is to always replace parts cleaner than they came off the car in the first place. This makes most reinstallations a lot easier because there isn't any grime stopping the bolts up.
Brakes:
On my car I had a leak that I wasn't able to find, and due to the fact that the brake booster would take an act of god to remove with a full interior car, I decided to attack the brake master cylinder first and foremost.
Mitsubishi Part numbers:
Brake Master Cylinder: MB500405
12mm bolt (x2): MF430005
Washer (x2): MF450405
The way I detected my leak is first taking off the fill cup from the firewall (2 12mm bolts), and checking underneath for cracks in the plastics. Next I unclipped the two rubber tubes from the cup and the master cylinder checked for cracks or leaks by filling them each up with water and capping off the ends and squeezing. After this I figured since I had an extra good master cylinder I might as well replace it. First I'd recommend loosening the hard lines on top, they are both 10mm, then unclip the two hoses, then unbolt the two 12mm bolts that attach it to the brake booster. In my case the two hard lines were stuck on top, so I went to the middle of the firewall and with the same 10mm wrench unbolted the brake lines from there. Afterwards I snaked the lines through the back and pulled the master cylinder out with hard lines attached. Installed the new master cylinder after thoroughly cleaning the surface and applying the red rtv like I did with the gaskets to the turbo, except make sure to only rtv the mating surface. Also take note, that if your brake master cylinder is leaking, the black paint on the booster may be flaking off so you may want to use some brake cleaner and a towel to clean the area where the master cylinder goes. Once the rtv is tacky, go ahead and reapply the master cylinder to the brake booster then secure it with the two 12mm nuts / washers. In my good luck I had to pull hard lines from my parts car and re-snake them thru the back of the firewall, make sure to snake both around the two existing hard lines so that the flared ends and collars line up properly, otherwise you'd need to make additional bends. I tightened the firewall lines finger-tight to provide flexibility for the lines at the master cylinder and re-assembled the lines.
Sidenote: It may make things easier to disconnect the fuel line that runs to the FPR, more room for tools.
Once again, let the rtv cure for 24 hours and you should be good to go.
Power Steering
When I picked up my car I had to cut the belt so that the leak in the pump wouldn't fry the new alternator I just put in the car, so then came the task of replacing the belt after patching the leak on the pump. When looking at the PS pump, on the left side there is 1 14mm bolt, then another 14mm bolt between the bracket and the PS pump, as well as two 14mm bolts beneath the pulley itself. In order to loosen the PS pump enough to put the belt on, you'll need to loosen all 4 of these bolts. In order to get to the two 14mm bolts on the right side, you will need to align the holes in the pulley to get your 14mm shallow socket in to loosen.
Before you can replace the PS belt, you will need to loosen and remove the alternator belt, this can be accomplished by first loosening the 12mm bolt on the right side of the alternator, then the opposing bolt to push the alternator back enough for slack in the belt.
ECU
Like all 1g's that haven't been taken care of my car had sat for a while which in turn gave the ecu plenty of time for the caps to leak. The process to replace caps has been detailed on tmo's website, www.tmo.com so I will add my two cents and be done with it. When replacing caps it makes it alot easier to heat up the existing solder then with a flat head screw driver, after bending the lead back below the board, pushing the lead through the board with the solder hot, it makes it a LOT easier than sucking solder, then resoldering.
This is all for now, I may add to it later when I remember more. Hope this helps! Should prove a good source for search!
-iLLt3cK
90GSX
Keep in mind, these all need to be performed on a level surface.
Drivetrain:
Transmission:
Drain bolt: 24mm
Fill bolt: 17mm
Process: To fill I purchased a funnel and long plastic tube, fed the tube down in the engine bay and into the fill hole, then in this case with 2.3 qt of GM Syncromesh filled the tranny until I could put my pinky in the fill hole and feel fluid.
Transfer Case:
Drain bolt: 24mm
Fill bolt: 17mm
Process: Same as transmission except you will need a longer clear plastic tube to keep things clean.
Rear Differential:
Drain bolt: 24mm
Fill bolt: 24mm
Process: This was a pain at first, but after purchasing a syringe type device used for mixing gasoline it became much easier. Upon searching another DSMer recommended a small metal oil pump. I jacked the car up in the back, filled the large plastic syringe a couple of times with the redline heavy shockproof and once again filled until I could feel fluid in the fill hole with my pinky.
Turbo:
Before turning even one bolt to remove the manifold and turbo, make sure to have both fans already pulled, they are held in by 10mm bolts.
The problem I had was the drain line was not tightened down when I purchased the car, therefore oil had been spewing all over the engine. At this point I didn't know whether or not the turbo was good so I needed to drop the turbo to check it out. After taking the turbo off, which I found easiest to take the exhaust manifold off and have the turbo supported by the downpipe and oil / coolant lines, I cleaned the surface of the drain tube and turbo with brake cleaner and a scrub brush to make sure the mating surface is as clean as you can get it.
Mitsubishi Part numbers:
Oil Return Gasket (need two): MD194403
Oil Return Tube: MD150523
10mm bolts to oil pan (x2): MF101229
10mm bolts to turbo (x2): MF241225
I use Red RTV sealant for both surfaces, and I find it best on the tube to turbo side to squeeze a 1/8th inch bead on the flange including around the bolt holes then smooth it with my finger to make a thin layer of red rtv, wait for a couple of minutes until the rtv is tacky but not solid, then press the gasket onto this surface and repeat the procedure for this surface as well. Make sure when you re-attach the drain tube to the bottom of the turbo with the two 10mm bolts that you do not over tighten and squeeze rtv out of the sides of the gasket. You can always come back later when it's cured and tighten if needed. (cure time specified by manufacturer is 24hrs).
I found it easiest to install the turbo side first, then feed the drain tube to it's position on the oil pan, and repeat the above procedure. At this point it makes it a LOT easier to unbolt the downpipe to have the maneuverability to tighten down the two 10mm holding the tube onto the oil pan itself.
At reinstall you may have difficulty with that bastard of a feed line in the front of the turbo that I believe is a 19mm bolt that has two copper crush washers sealing it onto the feed line, the bolt has a hole in the middle (banjo bolt).
Mitsubishi Part numbers:
Eyebolt (banjo): MF650114
Crush washers: MF660065
Coolant Feed line: MD117764
My frustration stems from trying to get the line itself lined up to the turbo once bolted loosely to the manifold, at the time I still had the passenger fan in which made it a lot harder than I thought. The line had been slanted to the side and faced down making it difficult to line it up to thread the bolt back in. What I ended up doing is removing the pass fan, taking a screw driver and putting it thru the hole at the end and bending the line straight which then made it a lot easier to thread the bolt back in.
Another good tip I found, that I practice is to always replace parts cleaner than they came off the car in the first place. This makes most reinstallations a lot easier because there isn't any grime stopping the bolts up.
Brakes:
On my car I had a leak that I wasn't able to find, and due to the fact that the brake booster would take an act of god to remove with a full interior car, I decided to attack the brake master cylinder first and foremost.
Mitsubishi Part numbers:
Brake Master Cylinder: MB500405
12mm bolt (x2): MF430005
Washer (x2): MF450405
The way I detected my leak is first taking off the fill cup from the firewall (2 12mm bolts), and checking underneath for cracks in the plastics. Next I unclipped the two rubber tubes from the cup and the master cylinder checked for cracks or leaks by filling them each up with water and capping off the ends and squeezing. After this I figured since I had an extra good master cylinder I might as well replace it. First I'd recommend loosening the hard lines on top, they are both 10mm, then unclip the two hoses, then unbolt the two 12mm bolts that attach it to the brake booster. In my case the two hard lines were stuck on top, so I went to the middle of the firewall and with the same 10mm wrench unbolted the brake lines from there. Afterwards I snaked the lines through the back and pulled the master cylinder out with hard lines attached. Installed the new master cylinder after thoroughly cleaning the surface and applying the red rtv like I did with the gaskets to the turbo, except make sure to only rtv the mating surface. Also take note, that if your brake master cylinder is leaking, the black paint on the booster may be flaking off so you may want to use some brake cleaner and a towel to clean the area where the master cylinder goes. Once the rtv is tacky, go ahead and reapply the master cylinder to the brake booster then secure it with the two 12mm nuts / washers. In my good luck I had to pull hard lines from my parts car and re-snake them thru the back of the firewall, make sure to snake both around the two existing hard lines so that the flared ends and collars line up properly, otherwise you'd need to make additional bends. I tightened the firewall lines finger-tight to provide flexibility for the lines at the master cylinder and re-assembled the lines.
Sidenote: It may make things easier to disconnect the fuel line that runs to the FPR, more room for tools.
Once again, let the rtv cure for 24 hours and you should be good to go.
Power Steering
When I picked up my car I had to cut the belt so that the leak in the pump wouldn't fry the new alternator I just put in the car, so then came the task of replacing the belt after patching the leak on the pump. When looking at the PS pump, on the left side there is 1 14mm bolt, then another 14mm bolt between the bracket and the PS pump, as well as two 14mm bolts beneath the pulley itself. In order to loosen the PS pump enough to put the belt on, you'll need to loosen all 4 of these bolts. In order to get to the two 14mm bolts on the right side, you will need to align the holes in the pulley to get your 14mm shallow socket in to loosen.
Before you can replace the PS belt, you will need to loosen and remove the alternator belt, this can be accomplished by first loosening the 12mm bolt on the right side of the alternator, then the opposing bolt to push the alternator back enough for slack in the belt.
ECU
Like all 1g's that haven't been taken care of my car had sat for a while which in turn gave the ecu plenty of time for the caps to leak. The process to replace caps has been detailed on tmo's website, www.tmo.com so I will add my two cents and be done with it. When replacing caps it makes it alot easier to heat up the existing solder then with a flat head screw driver, after bending the lead back below the board, pushing the lead through the board with the solder hot, it makes it a LOT easier than sucking solder, then resoldering.
This is all for now, I may add to it later when I remember more. Hope this helps! Should prove a good source for search!
-iLLt3cK
90GSX
Just doing my part to help anyone in their searching 
