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Old 03-05-2006, 02:06 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
DSM Wiseman
 

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How-To Install a DBB PTE 5031 or 50 trim turbo!


Hey guys,
I just installed my turbo tonight and decided to snap some pictures along the way for those who are wondering how to do a 50 trim or ball bearing 50 trim install. If you have a standard 50 trim, don't worry about the water lines I keep referring to, the process is exactly the same.

for starters:
Do everything you would to drop your turbo. This includes all fluids, lines, turbo system parts, etc. Also remove your radiator to make life easier. Then go ahead collect and order all of the parts that you are going to use. This includes all new lines, turbo, gaskets, tools, ratchets, etc. The basic things.

First and foremost, take your BFH and go to town on your water pipe. Be sure not to actually skew the waterpipe as it may cause a leak if the Oring seperates from either the thermostat housing or waterpump housing. You should end up with something like this (picture of my old G50).



*** IMPORTANT*** this applies to both wet and dry 50 trims. REMOVE the banjo bolt/water line that is bolted to the block. It is right below the waterpipe on the passenger side. Lots of coolant will gush out. Now go to the hardware store and pick up a 14 x 1.5 x 10 bolt. Use this bolt as a plug for that hole. You will not need this anymore.

Now, go ahead and do your prep work. This involves PORTING your turbo, RTVing all of your gaskets for install, ziptieing things, etc.

picture of my porting. I used a carbide single cut burr, disc shaped stone grinder, 60 grit 1/2" drum sand paper, then 120 grit. Pay special attention to the flapper entrance, as it is the most crucial part to porting. Be careful and use your judgement concerning how far you go with your porting. TOO MUCH is never good.



*turbine housing comes cut from PTE


Now go ahead and get your turbo system set up. USE antiseize on every fastener you have. torque to spec. Regardless of if you are using stock or brand new water lines, you MUST get 14mm copper crush washers for both sides of the banjo bolt. Once you get the banjo bolt hand tight, go ahead and play around with the actual water line to get it to whatever position you want.

The green lines will indicate a water line, and the red is the oil feed line. Take your oil from the filter housing.

*note, I have read others having problems with getting the restrictor and oil feed line bolt to get clearance from a stock 2g manifold. I avoided this problem by having the oil feed line go through the back of the turbo, unlike the traditional way of having it go through the front.

**If you are running a bb, it is perscribed by the manufacturer to pull the oil from the head with an inline micron filter to better lubricate your bb chra. As it should be known, BB chra's do not need excess oil pressure that is seen from the OFH (70+ psi).




Here are two pictures from the underside of the car. Red denotes the SS feed line, yellow the coolant line running from the thermostat to the oil filter housing, and green is the water line from the front of the CHRA.

*Looking at these pictures made me realize that my MBC line is kinked. Problem was fixed.*




note, although it particularly does not matter which way to route the water lines, I like to believe in Mitsubishi engineers (That's a first, huh? LOL) so I routed mine the same way it came from the factory. The front water line (picture above) is the water RETURN line. This line connects to the nipple that comes out from the waterpipe. The rear water line is the coolant feed line which is (from the factory) taken from the coolant line coming out of the block. Since that is currently blocked off, a new source of water must be found.

Here are some front shots of the turbo. I mixed red and green up for the rear facing water line, but I'm sure you can tell in the pictures that they are the same. I also changed the color of the t-stat to oil filter housing line to light blue.




The important thing to note is how I tee-d the thermostat line. Since in the beginning of the install, I plugged the stock turbo feed (coolant) line, I had to find a new source of coolant feed to the turbo. After speaking with Matt at SBR, we both agreed that it is possible to tee from the thermostat housing. These last two shots demonstrate how I did that. I use 3/8" fuel line with a 3/8" plastic tee.

*note* KJS1820 Pmed me and suggested a brass/copper tee. I definitely agree to this and would recommend to all to do so! Just go to your local ACE hardware store and pick up a 3/8" brass/copper tee to use with your 3/8" fuel line. Thanks KJS1820!

Pic 1
Pic 2
pic 3

After this, install your oil return line to your oil pan using a new gasket and a thin layer of RTV. Then reinstall everything you touched during this whole install. Take your time and double check everything you've done!!



____________________________
~Tom

Last edited by blcknspo0ln; 03-09-2008 at 08:40 AM.
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Old 04-27-2006, 01:09 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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Here are some follow-up threads going on now.

Ball bearing PTE 50 trim
BB 5031 / 50trim install plus tips and pictures


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Old 04-27-2006, 01:11 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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Comparison


I guess I can finally offer my insight on the BB50trim now that I have had more time tuning and playing with it. First, I have owned and boosted the e316G, SBR G50, and the PTE BB5031 all at 21 psi. Spoolup on the e316G hits quick and hits hard. I was able to reach 21 psi by 3500 rpm and she pulled all the way until redline without dropping any boost. I then proceded to switch to a dry SBR G50 (your standard 50 trim) and it packs a huge punch up top compared to the e316G. The spoolup was definitely noticeable compared to the 16G and I hit 21 psi by 4100 rpm (probably had to do with my rich tune also). low-end and mid-range power from the G50 versus the e316G is noticeable also. The e316G is perfect for fast spooling, quick power, and mid to high top end pull. Overall my experience with the G50 was OK to say the least. Now, moving onto the BB5031. First of all, I noticed an immediate difference in spoolup. With the G50, It was hard to build any boost at all while driving around town. With the BB5031, the sucker spooled just like an e316G. 21 psi is achieved by 3800 rpm and it pulls much harder (again probably the tune) than the G50/16G. Up top the turbo screams. With that in mind, I was able to achieve a trap speed of 106 with my G50 @ 21 psi on my first night ever on the track. I am going to the track on Friday and I am more than confident that I will be able to trap 110+. (cross your fingers for me). I will report back when I get back. Lastly, at a measly 16 psi (major problems with boost control, now fixed) I was able to put down 293 fwhp and 269 ft/lb of torque !!! I can't wait to go to the track and go back to the dyno to tune for 350+ fwhp.

I hope this helps.

*edit* Also, all 3 turbos were all ported and were internally gated. the e316G creeped from 21psi to 23 psi. The G50 creeped from 21 psi - 23 psi. The BB5031 spikes at 22 psi and settles to 21psi, rock solid boost after that until redline.


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Old 05-22-2006, 10:11 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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Update:


With my current mods and the SAFC2 settings at -46% across the board and 24* of timing, I ran a 110mph trapspeed. This turbo is by far a good investment and has zero shaft play after about 1300 miles of pushing it hard. No doubt in my mind with some injector compensation and a retune I'll be able to trap 113+!


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Last edited by blcknspo0ln; 05-24-2006 at 09:21 PM.
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Old 08-08-2007, 05:44 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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Okay! Here's a follow up:

I went 12.09@115.3 at Island Dragway with this turbo, it's definitely holding up! Total miles is up to about 6,000 now.

Short mod list as follows for that pass:
2.0L .020+ Ross 8.3:1 / Eagle H-beam rods ; 23 psi dropping off to 21psi by redline, shifting at 8k with stock valve train; full supporting mods; pump 93

As I was putting my FP race manifold on today, I decided to take some pictures for a follow up:

Here's a crack in the turbine housing, I'm going to blame my porting job on this one, not PTE's housing. I ported the wastegate entrance a little too much and I guess that's the result.




Also, i'm guessing it's a surface crack because spoolup has not suffered yet.

I also took the time to reroute my water lines to see if it would help cooling at all. Coolant feed to the turbo consists of the water from the thermo housing to the banjo fittings. Coolant return is from the return fitting to the top boss/nipple of the water pipe. I decided not to highlight these this time for a better view.

feed:


return:





This just in! Thanks to landy (diamondstargsx) it has been confirmed that the 7 bolt oil drain plug for the oil pan is the SAME size/pitch that you can use to plug up your 1G banjo water feed line and/or stock block feed line that I discusses in my original article.

Also,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jst4Cyl
I have a 1G with of course the 6bolt in it and I have the PTE 5031 and I used the set screw out of the oil filter housing also to plug my water pipe that feeds the stock 14b...:thumb:


Also worth noting, I get many PMs asking me WHY you need to plug that location if you have a BB (need coolant lines). It is NOT necessary to block that particular line, it is just that in most cases, the to4e comp cover hits that banjo fitting and you cannot install the turbo with it there. That is the reason why you are eliminating the oem water feed line.


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Last edited by blcknspo0ln; 08-09-2007 at 07:07 AM.
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Old 02-29-2008, 07:53 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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Wow, it's been a while since I've updated this thread. I'm about to hit my 2 year mark with this turbo and it has about 7,000 miles on it. As you guys can see, I barely drive my car by the mileage I put on it :coy:.

Freshly uninstalled:





Wow the crack got a lot worse:


RTV still good, first time opening it since my original post:




Wheel is still good, a couple nicks here and there from something ingested, no negative effects so far.



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Old 02-29-2008, 08:01 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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I tried looking locally for a divided turbine housing, but to no avail. I bit the bullet and purchased one brand spankin' new from extremepsi for $200.

Before porting:

Notice sharpie marks:


After:





As she sits now:
Got the comp cover powdercoated by Martin @ liquidpowdercoats.com :D





With the FP race manifold, this turbo does NOT need to be clearanced from the waterpipe.


After the advice of some awesome members here, I went to Autozone to pick up a 1.5" flexible exhaust tube. PERFECT for a dumptube extension. If I didn't already have a dump tube, I would have just made the whole damn thing out of this stuff :rocks: Since I took this picture, it has been shorted about 6" due to my car being unfortunately slammed to the ground.


With the new EWG setup, I plan on running in excess of 26-28 psi this year on meth/93 and hopefully will see some 120 traps. Updates to come later as the season begins again!


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Old 02-29-2008, 08:17 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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I also rerouted my water lines a bit differently.

water feed came directly from a top port of the thermostat housing (blue line) to the block side of the CHRA and water return went from the fan side of the CHRA back to a tee that I put in between the water pipe + thermostat housing (red line).




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