First off, if you could read everything first, the diagrams will be easier to understand, and I think it will make it a lot easier to comprehend the gist for whats going on. It will also make the end install way easier.
Second, it is imperative to make sure you get the white canister; its a one way vacuum canister that is essential to proper operation. If you dont have one, you can buy a Dodge Dakota variant that has been reported to work by several sources, part # 4677204. There is also a Mitsu one that may work, Mitsu part # MD125817. I have not used either of these, but they are only like $7 so its worth a shot since finding an individual JDM white canister is basically impossible.
Third, depending upon the condition of your manifold, it might not be a bad idea to clean it out and get some new gaskets. You can get the gaskets at one place, and one place only: JNZ tuning. They sell the necessary gaskets for 20 dollars each.
Some background:
On the EVO 3 RS, the JDM ECU had the valves open at 4100 RPM and that engine as you may or may not know came with a B16g and 510cc injectors (according to RRE) running I'm guessing since Ive never gotten a definitive answer around 12-14lbs.
As far as the vacuum lines, here is a quick run down on how this thing is designed to work (in my own words).
Before being activated, the valves block off the shorter 4 runners, leaving the combustion chamber to only get its air from longer 4 runners. The butterfly valves remain closed because the "actuator" for them is in vacuum; without vacuum they are open. This is because the actuator gets it vacuum source from the intake manifold itself, just like a blow off valve. The white canister/one way valve, allows the vacuum through, and it then passes though the FPRS which because it is NOT powered/on, is considered OPEN, thus allowing the vacuum through and straight to the butterfly valve actuator.
Its like this for the vacuum:
Intake manifold -> canister -> FPRS -> butterfly actuator
Now, you got that big 50 trim dual BB brand new PTE spooled (or maybe an EVO 3, it just sounded cooler) to all hell screaming at 28 pounds and you look over at the C6 in your passenger mirror ripping it as well. It reaches 4200 RPM and bam, the FPRS is activated, CLOSING the solenoid. The white canister, being one way, doesnt allow pressure to escape, and the butterfly actuator, now deprived of a vacuum source, opens up, snapping all four valves open for the shorter runners, basically doubling your intake manifold runner volume in an instant.
There are three ways to get an RPM signal to the solenoid:
1. DSMLink V2: Utilizing v2 is going to make your life really easy. What you are going to do is have the nitrous controls activate the stock FPR (meaning you are going to have to disconnect the stock vacuum lines if you havent already) and are going to need to read pages 23 - 24 in the dsmlink pdf manual. You also use the stock wiring from the ECU that goes to the solenoid, since Link overrides the controls of it. Its basically:
Laptop -> OBDII port -> ECU -> Stock FPR wiring -> Stock FPR
I read through it and these are the settings I would use initially:
check "enable NC"
activate above "1500 RPM"
but below "2500 RPM"
leave the rest blank, I wouldnt use any of it personally unless you are like hardcore tuning with a serious setup, even then I would only use it as it was intended, by RPM.
The reason for 1500 activation and 2500 deactivation is this: Once you get her in and it all hooked up, have a buddy rev the motor VERY slowly while you stick your head in there and make sure the valves are opening and closing. You do this by watching the actuator valve move. Its a troubleshooting method I used until I got mine working right.
Once you get it working right then bump the activation up to anything past 3600ish and deactivate at or before redline. Depending upon your turbo and when you hit full spool is where you will then determine when you want the runners to open. At this time, Chris aka 16G-95GSX on another dsm forum, is developing a Microsoft Excel spreadsheet to mathematically determine the optimum activation point, last I heard.
2. RPM Activated Switch: This is what I used to get mine working right. I bought a Summit Racing switch. (part # SUM-830449) I know that others have used MSD RPM switches that drag guys use for activating nitrous. Any will work. I like the Summit one b/c it was adjustable without the typical rpm pills found with MSD like setups and was only ~$40, half that of a typical RPM switch. It has dials in it and small dip switches that make it almost mistaken for a MAF-T.
Per the diagram, you are going to want to get the RPM signal from the WHITE wire on the igniter harness. You then need to tap a 12v power source and ground out the switch itself. A wire must then be ran from the switch to the FPR solenoid in the engine bay and then the switch must be ground out. The line that runs from the switch to the solenoid DOES NOT get power until the RPM switch is activated.
I would once again follow the latter part of the link instructions and set the activation point at like 2k rpms or something and have someone look under the hood while you rev it to make sure it is working right.
It should also be noted that when using the Summit switch, there is a fine tuning adjustment knob that changes the switches sensitivity to the RPM signal. I had to mess with mine a little bit to get it to activate right on the dot. If you dont, it may activate earlier or later by something like 100 rpms either way. You can tell when its dead on because the green LED will light up. So rev it to the designated RPM Point, hold that rev, and make sure the green LED is lit.
3. Shift Light: This method is almost identical to the RPM activated switch. Follow the directions for the RPM switch method. The only difference is that you are going to need to tap into the lights bulb power wire. The wire you tap for that is going to be the power source for the solenoid.
How this method works is when the shift lights ship sends the power to the light bulb/LED array to light up indicating to the driver to shift, you use that power to activate the solenoid. Shift lights either come pill operated like the RPM switches can, or you can get the EBay racing style ones with adjustable knobs on the back for the RPM point. For the price you pay, I would highly recommend getting the Summit Switch. This method is really only good for someone that has a spare shift light laying around or something of that nature.
Honestly my car felt (I sold it 5 weeks ago) like a T-25 with supporting mods just with the punch a 16g has to offer. Thats the best way to describe it IMO.
I would like to credit Kyle Zingg for the great information he provided me through his webpage (PM for the link) and several of the pictures of his that I used in this VFAQ since I no longer own my car. I would also like to credit DSMChips.com for their awesome vacuum diagram that I used as a model to create mine (the one used in this article) and their brilliant idea to re-create the JDM ECU activation with their chips which spurred so many ideas. That and all the research they did on the stock activation points, how it functioned, and one of their dyno runs that, in my opinion, speaks for itself in justifying this modification as a hands down no brainer.
It should also be noted that you can purchase a keydriver chip and have it programmed to activated the stock FPR solenoid as I described in the article. This activation method would work just like DSMLink, only without the ability to change the activation point since it is "burned" into the chip itself.
You only use one of them. And if I remember correctly (since I sold the car), its the yellow one. The yellow one is a dead line (no power) until the RPM point is reached. Once you hit XXXX rpms, the line becomes "live" or essentially the ground line for the FPRS, which will then be powered on, stopping vacuum from reaching the butterfly actuator, which will in turn open the valves.
Directions for the switch can be found here:
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/sum-830449-1.pdf
Hope that helps!
-Brandon
Second, it is imperative to make sure you get the white canister; its a one way vacuum canister that is essential to proper operation. If you dont have one, you can buy a Dodge Dakota variant that has been reported to work by several sources, part # 4677204. There is also a Mitsu one that may work, Mitsu part # MD125817. I have not used either of these, but they are only like $7 so its worth a shot since finding an individual JDM white canister is basically impossible.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Third, depending upon the condition of your manifold, it might not be a bad idea to clean it out and get some new gaskets. You can get the gaskets at one place, and one place only: JNZ tuning. They sell the necessary gaskets for 20 dollars each.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Some background:
On the EVO 3 RS, the JDM ECU had the valves open at 4100 RPM and that engine as you may or may not know came with a B16g and 510cc injectors (according to RRE) running I'm guessing since Ive never gotten a definitive answer around 12-14lbs.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
As far as the vacuum lines, here is a quick run down on how this thing is designed to work (in my own words).
Before being activated, the valves block off the shorter 4 runners, leaving the combustion chamber to only get its air from longer 4 runners. The butterfly valves remain closed because the "actuator" for them is in vacuum; without vacuum they are open. This is because the actuator gets it vacuum source from the intake manifold itself, just like a blow off valve. The white canister/one way valve, allows the vacuum through, and it then passes though the FPRS which because it is NOT powered/on, is considered OPEN, thus allowing the vacuum through and straight to the butterfly valve actuator.
Its like this for the vacuum:
Intake manifold -> canister -> FPRS -> butterfly actuator
Now, you got that big 50 trim dual BB brand new PTE spooled (or maybe an EVO 3, it just sounded cooler) to all hell screaming at 28 pounds and you look over at the C6 in your passenger mirror ripping it as well. It reaches 4200 RPM and bam, the FPRS is activated, CLOSING the solenoid. The white canister, being one way, doesnt allow pressure to escape, and the butterfly actuator, now deprived of a vacuum source, opens up, snapping all four valves open for the shorter runners, basically doubling your intake manifold runner volume in an instant.
There are three ways to get an RPM signal to the solenoid:
1. DSMLink V2: Utilizing v2 is going to make your life really easy. What you are going to do is have the nitrous controls activate the stock FPR (meaning you are going to have to disconnect the stock vacuum lines if you havent already) and are going to need to read pages 23 - 24 in the dsmlink pdf manual. You also use the stock wiring from the ECU that goes to the solenoid, since Link overrides the controls of it. Its basically:
Laptop -> OBDII port -> ECU -> Stock FPR wiring -> Stock FPR
I read through it and these are the settings I would use initially:
check "enable NC"
activate above "1500 RPM"
but below "2500 RPM"
leave the rest blank, I wouldnt use any of it personally unless you are like hardcore tuning with a serious setup, even then I would only use it as it was intended, by RPM.
The reason for 1500 activation and 2500 deactivation is this: Once you get her in and it all hooked up, have a buddy rev the motor VERY slowly while you stick your head in there and make sure the valves are opening and closing. You do this by watching the actuator valve move. Its a troubleshooting method I used until I got mine working right.
Once you get it working right then bump the activation up to anything past 3600ish and deactivate at or before redline. Depending upon your turbo and when you hit full spool is where you will then determine when you want the runners to open. At this time, Chris aka 16G-95GSX on another dsm forum, is developing a Microsoft Excel spreadsheet to mathematically determine the optimum activation point, last I heard.
2. RPM Activated Switch: This is what I used to get mine working right. I bought a Summit Racing switch. (part # SUM-830449) I know that others have used MSD RPM switches that drag guys use for activating nitrous. Any will work. I like the Summit one b/c it was adjustable without the typical rpm pills found with MSD like setups and was only ~$40, half that of a typical RPM switch. It has dials in it and small dip switches that make it almost mistaken for a MAF-T.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Per the diagram, you are going to want to get the RPM signal from the WHITE wire on the igniter harness. You then need to tap a 12v power source and ground out the switch itself. A wire must then be ran from the switch to the FPR solenoid in the engine bay and then the switch must be ground out. The line that runs from the switch to the solenoid DOES NOT get power until the RPM switch is activated.
I would once again follow the latter part of the link instructions and set the activation point at like 2k rpms or something and have someone look under the hood while you rev it to make sure it is working right.
It should also be noted that when using the Summit switch, there is a fine tuning adjustment knob that changes the switches sensitivity to the RPM signal. I had to mess with mine a little bit to get it to activate right on the dot. If you dont, it may activate earlier or later by something like 100 rpms either way. You can tell when its dead on because the green LED will light up. So rev it to the designated RPM Point, hold that rev, and make sure the green LED is lit.
3. Shift Light: This method is almost identical to the RPM activated switch. Follow the directions for the RPM switch method. The only difference is that you are going to need to tap into the lights bulb power wire. The wire you tap for that is going to be the power source for the solenoid.
How this method works is when the shift lights ship sends the power to the light bulb/LED array to light up indicating to the driver to shift, you use that power to activate the solenoid. Shift lights either come pill operated like the RPM switches can, or you can get the EBay racing style ones with adjustable knobs on the back for the RPM point. For the price you pay, I would highly recommend getting the Summit Switch. This method is really only good for someone that has a spare shift light laying around or something of that nature.
Honestly my car felt (I sold it 5 weeks ago) like a T-25 with supporting mods just with the punch a 16g has to offer. Thats the best way to describe it IMO.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I would like to credit Kyle Zingg for the great information he provided me through his webpage (PM for the link) and several of the pictures of his that I used in this VFAQ since I no longer own my car. I would also like to credit DSMChips.com for their awesome vacuum diagram that I used as a model to create mine (the one used in this article) and their brilliant idea to re-create the JDM ECU activation with their chips which spurred so many ideas. That and all the research they did on the stock activation points, how it functioned, and one of their dyno runs that, in my opinion, speaks for itself in justifying this modification as a hands down no brainer.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
It should also be noted that you can purchase a keydriver chip and have it programmed to activated the stock FPR solenoid as I described in the article. This activation method would work just like DSMLink, only without the ability to change the activation point since it is "burned" into the chip itself.
jamel16 said:Hey I have a question about using the rpm switch to actuate the cyclone manifold. Where do you hook up the yellow and gray wires? I am confused about those two. Thanks in advance
You only use one of them. And if I remember correctly (since I sold the car), its the yellow one. The yellow one is a dead line (no power) until the RPM point is reached. Once you hit XXXX rpms, the line becomes "live" or essentially the ground line for the FPRS, which will then be powered on, stopping vacuum from reaching the butterfly actuator, which will in turn open the valves.
Directions for the switch can be found here:
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/sum-830449-1.pdf
Hope that helps!
-Brandon
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