The OEM fuel filter is a low flow 2.2lpm unit with a restriction at the Banjo Bolt and fuel rail [1]
This tech article will show you how to replace the Fuel filter and the feed line to the rail using the stock metal fuel line and -6AN SS Line / Fittings.
Disclaimer, this procedure invloves potential contact with gasoline so proper eye protection, gloves are required. Make sure you are in a well ventalated area free of open flame before attempting
Parts Needed:
- Golan Large Fuel Filter w/ -6AN inlet/outlet ($52 from
Rex Marine or
Jay Racing ) *
(C)
- -6AN Male to 14mm x1.5 Female Saginaw Adapter (Earls #
Welcome!) $8.69
(A) **
- -6AN Female Swivel (Earls #
915106-ERL) $5.25
(B)
- -6AN 90deg Swivel Hose End (Earls #
809106-ERL ) $15.88
(D)
- -6AN 45deg Swivel Hose End (Earls #
804606-ERL) $11.95
(F)
- 1 Foot -6AN SS Braid Fuel Line (Summit #
Welcome!) $7.69
(E)
- CNC Fuel Rail Inlet Fitting –
Extreme PSI $24
(G)
- 10mm bolt, nut, washer, lock washer
- Electrical Tape (to wrap the AN fittings to prevent marring)
- Thread Sealer / Teflon Tape (this is only for the Saginaw fitting, never use thread sealer on AN fittings as they seal themselves)
* Note for EFI applications you need a filter that can filter down to
10micron so as not to damage/clog injectors. You also need a filter that will support pressures of at least 100psi with high flow and low pressure drop. I found the Golan filter to be the best value of all those I’d compared: 10micron reusable element, choice of -6AN thru -12AN inlet/outlets and 900gph flow rate.
** Note If you wanted to keep your OEM filter and just replace the fuel feed line you can use a -6AN to 12mm x 1.25 Male adaptor (Earls P/N 991945) to connect to the SS feed line we will be constructing below (thanks to Me612 for the tip).
Tools Needed:
- 14mm Flare Wrench (mandatory)
- 19mm Flare Wrench or Box Wrench
- 10mm, 12mm Sockets/Wrench
- -6AN Wrench or 11/16” Wrench
- Adjustable Wrench
Procedure:
1. Depressurize fuel system by disconnecting the fuel pump harness and turning the car over (e.g. start the car)
2. Disconnect Battery and remove from car along with plastic battery tray.
3. Remove Throttle Body Elbow and Intake Manifold Brace
4. Remove UIP or reposition out of the way.
5. Place several paper towels under the fuel rail inlet flange, disconnect the (2) 10mm mounting bolts and gently remove (may need to pry with screwdriver) from the rail.
6. Wrap lower fuel line under filter with paper towels.
7. While using a 19mm wrench to hold the lower filter fitting, use 14mm flare wrench to crack loose/remove the lower fuel line fitting from the OEM filter. Be careful, as if you twist the filter, you may bend/kink the OEM metal line and will be SOL.
8. Remove fuel filter mounting bolts and remove w/upper fuel line from car and mounting bracket (careful of the dripping gas).
9. Remove the metal bracket from the firewall and enlarge the lower hole to accommodate a 10mm bolt.
10. Check that the fuel filter is correctly put together, oriented (arrow points to direction of flow) and that the top/bottom screw off ends are tight (instructions say just past hand tight).
11. Install Golan mounting bracket to the Firewall Bracket with the 10mm bolt, nut, washer and lock washer.
12. Reinstall firewall bracket
13. Apply thread sealer/Teflon tape to the -6AN to 14mm x1.5 Female Saginaw adapter and install to the OEM metal fuel line fitting. Make sure it is tight.
14. Install the -6AN Straight Swivel to the bottom of the filter housing
15. Oil the CNC Fuel Rail fitting’s o-ring and install on the fuel rail
16. Loosely install Golan fuel filter to the OEM Fuel line/Saginaw adapter and then clip into the mounting bracket (next few steps are for fitment of the fuel line)
17. Install the -6AN 90deg Hose End to one end of the SS Line and loosely connect to the top of the fuel filter.
18. Take the bare end of the SS hose and route the way you want it to the new fuel rail inlet fitting taking note that the engine will move front/back on accereration so leave some slack.
19. Mark the proper length, tape and cut to length.
20. Install the -6AN 45deg swivel hose end loosely and loosely fit to the fuel rail inlet fitting. Put the intake manifold brace in place to make sure that there is no interference. If possible, rotate the swivel fitting to remedy. If cannot, may need to “notch” the brace.
21. Tighten down the 45deg hose end.
22. Using your -6AN wrench tighten all fittings: the lower straight fitting to the 14mm Saginaw, the 90deg hose end to fuel filter and the 45deg hose end to fuel rail fitting. Make sure when tightening you do not screw the top or bottom of the of the filter case itself as was already correctly tightened above.
23. Reinstall the Throttle Body Elbow, Intake Manifold bracket, UIP, Battery Tray and Battery.
Testing your connections: Be careful of open flames, gas spray and wear eye protection.
24. Using the Fuel Pump test harness*** tapped to the wire bundle behind the battery, use a wire to apply 12v (fuel pump should turn on). After a few seconds the fuel pressure should be up to the base pressure the FPR is set at. Check all connections for leaks and tighten where appropriate ****
*** Note many dataloggers have a feature to turn on the fuel pump relay so could use that instead.
**** Though my original presure test to 42psi (my base pressure) showed no leaks, in taking my car out for a test run to 65psi (42psi base + 23psi boost) I found a leak in my "low cost" Summit Racing 90deg swivel. This part proved defective so have changed my above parts list to Earls which I know to be of excellent quality. You can simulate real driving tests by using a hand pump (mightly vac) to apply 20psi to the FPR boost nipple with the fuel pump on. Be sure to work the SS lines back/forth to simulate engine movement to make sure everything is nice and leak free.
Credits:
[1]
SteveTek for general info on OEM fuel flow rates.
[2] Jeff Oberholtzer / NABR for the correct fuel rail fitting for the OEM Line
[3] NABR for information on the Golan Fuel Filter
