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runs in clear, how to remove?

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slowgsr

15+ Year Contributor
862
10
Dec 17, 2007
hamilton, ON, Canada
Hi, Not sure if theres anyone on here who can help. Maybe some painters or bodyguys? Or just DIY'ers who have lots of experience with the cut/polish process?

I painted my winter car for experience, it turned out good.. The prep, the primer, base and clear. On my last coat of clear I got a few nasty sags, and a few nasty runs on the drivers side fender and the front bumper. It was cold, and the car is white so it was hard to see how much I was putting on.

I wanted to cut/polish this thing anyway (again for the experience) but now Ive got to deal with getting the runs out.. which sucks. I think I can get it done though.

Im going to let it set up for about 2 days before I try to attack it.. The spec sheet said 24hrs-4days to wetsand/buff. Thats in a warm drying environment, it was about 60 deg in my shop. So im going to give it a bit more time, and im sure I will have a bigger window.

Plus I still have to paint the roof and A pillars black, so im going to do that tmrw and than pull tape tuesday and start cleaning up the clear.

Im going to start with a razor blade, and see if I can scrape the majority of the runs down taking my time, than with some 600 or 800 and a rubber block to straighten things out, than do the whole body with 1000-1500-2000 and than buff it.

Heres some pics, Im also considering just re-clearing the fender and bumper shown... However, Id rather not.

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Theres some pictures
 

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Not sure how many coats of clear you have on there but chances are that you will be reclearing..... Those are pretty nasty and will take quite some time to set up.

If you want to try and get them out I would try and block just the tops off with some 800. It will more than likely ball up on the paper a little. You don't want to sand a lot, you just want to open it up so it can dry better. Give that a few days or a week depending on temperature, maybe even try and warm it up once in a while if possible. You do not want to scrape them with a razor blade till they are good and dry, you can easily tare it up. Try and get most of it down with the blade, working in one direction till it's pretty flush with the rest of the paint. You can get them out really well with a blade, but some of those are good ones. You will probably still see them if you look closely, but being a white car they probably won't be too noticable.

Just try and use a hard block or a nice paint stick and stay on top of the run and you may be alright, step it down as you said and be careful buffing.
 
Wet sand from a medium grade to a fine one, thats a lot of clear seems like you were too close when you sprayed.
 
wow those are bad. im really not sure if that will sand down without messing the rest up. i say just hit it with 220 and re clear. it would be the fastest and easier way. i mean you have to be really careful wet sanding. digging is the worst part of it. try not to spend to much time in one spot.
 
Thanks guys. Im going to START with that area haha. Try to get the runs out, wetsand the fender than use the buffer with some rubbing compounds and see how it turns out. If I can't get it out, than I will wetsand the fender with 400 and re-clear.

Since Im sure I could just re-clear the fender as long as I don't go though the clear into the base while wetsanding. However, I still want to cut/polish after to get the paint to look like glass instead of a factory paint job with factory orange peel.

Im going to wait another 2 days before I try to work with it.

I did get too close there, I was doing it alone, my airhose wasn't co-operating and It was my last coat/last area to clear and I fubar'd it. O well, live and learn.

Theres only $300 worth of paint/clear there so its nothing to loose any sleep over. I can always make it right still. The base went on amazing though. I love the colour, I still have to do the roof black and clear that. That I will probably spray tmrw night.. Than let the whole thing set up for another 2 days and start working with it. I can put the stereo in followed by the interior. (just door speakers with a 4 channel amp).

There was about 4 coats of clear, and they were all pretty heavy except that coat was a little too heavy.. so theres lots to work with.
 
Take the razor blade and sharpen it on a piece of 1500 grit. It will leave a finer edge and you'll be able to razor those runs out easier.
 
razor out the runs, then wet sand it. After thats done, polish the surface. When you lay down your clear coats, try to several thin coats.
 
I painted the black on the roof/trunk and spoiler and cleared them. No runs this time around as I learned from my mistakes. It will be interesting to see how I can do at the cut polish process. I wish I could pull it outside to help the clear dry from the sun but it's been cloudy and rainy for weeks! O well as long as I get this thing done before the snow flys. Must say last winter with a good set of agressive winter tires it went through way more snow than I thought!

It's been a good learning experience so far and thanks for all the advice everyone!

This is a lot different type of thing compared to going fast and I can say mistakes figuring that out cost much more than a paint job mishap LOL!
 
I sanded it tonight, starting with a rubber block and 1000 grit, and got all the runs out, I just sanded across them and stayed ontop, I could feel them, I kept cleaning it off and checking it often untill they just disapeared.. than I sanded the fender with 1500 to get all the peel out and scratches from 1000, now I just have to do it with 2000 and im going to hit it with some compound and polish and see how it looks.

Ill get some pics up as I progress.

Ive got 4 coats of clear on so hopefully I don't sand though.. Im guessing if you sand though you have a dull spot that dosen't shine?

The roof and trunk is black, but the white dosen't LOOK so that bad, because its hard to see the peel.
 
When i clear i do a light coat then every other i lay it on a bit thicker. ill be painting it again this spring coming up.
 
razor blade is the way to go...... get it close then wet sand and buff.
 
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