Need help making sub enclosure. Cant figure out size specs...

[DSMRevolution]

I have a AWD Talon and as you all know, it has a hump in the back end. This hump prevents making any kind of low (really low) sub enclosure. I have all the wood I will need (almost all at least) and I am going to get fiberglass if needed by the weekend. I have a Jensen 10" and here are the specs:

Single 10" Bandpass Sub System
525 Watts Peak Power, 175 Watts RMS
2-Port design - for deeper bass
Dual 4th order bandpass subwoofer system
Single 10" Low-Q optimized drivers
Carpeted enclosure
Plexi subwoofer viewing window
Computer tuned acoustic chambers
Plexi subwoofer viewing window
No crossovers needed for simplified installation
Compact design

That is all that I know about the subwoofer. Currently it is sitting on the hump in the bandpass box. I want to get rid of that bandpass box and make a false floor. But at the same time, I don't want to free air the sub so it needs to be in an enclosure. I have seen people on this board who made a false floor. I know how to make the floor and everything, but I do not know how to figure out how big the sealed part where the sub goes should be.

I would rather just make one big low profile box. Like the length of the truck but the width cut in half so that I still have room to put the amps in. In other words, It would be just one big false floor with a sub flush mounted and the amps and everything also flush mounted.

Can anybody help me out with making the specs of the sub box? Thanks

Also I know that the sub is just a sh!tty one. I just want a bit of bass and not make the car much heavier. I like the way the Jensen sounds even though it is not NEAR as good as a decent one. No flaming now

thanks again

 

[97GS-TSpyder]

dude find out the airspace in the manual that came with it and measure it out it all should be in the book or go to the website

 

[DSMRevolution]

Originally posted by 97GS-TSpyder
dude find out the airspace in the manual that came with it and measure it out it all should be in the book or go to the website

I would, but it didn't come with a manual and there isn't a website that tells the airspace. I have been searching for a bit now, but even jensen.com doesn't have a manual. I might just have to give them a call. Thanks

 

[DSMRevolution]

I just got off the phone with Jensen and they said that the cubic feet is .75 for my sub. Can somebody here give me a rundown with this?? I have tried using box enclosure programs but I never found one worth my time. Any help would be great

 

[MyEclipse5]

i skimmed through but if you have a bandpass box.....get rid of it...i heard they will blow your subs...and it gives a worse sound quility

 

[DSMRevolution]

Originally posted by MyEclipse5
i skimmed through but if you have a bandpass box.....get rid of it...i heard they will blow your subs...and it gives a worse sound quility

That is what I am going to do. The sub came installed in a bandpass box when I purchased it brand new.

 

[97GS-TSpyder]

find out what LxW is that makes .75 cubic inches and then add to each side how thick the plywood is twice nad then build.....thats how i was taught so you def have enough space...iff you haev too little you blow...And unless you have 900 competition subs yes bandpass sucks

 

[97GS-TSpyder]

LxWxH sorry

 

[DSMRevolution]

ok thanks! I will give that a try when I get back home! hopefully I can figure everything out soon.

 

[dudasd]

Actually you need to take the total of the LxWxH aznd then divide it by 1728 to get the airspace of the enclosure. So for your needs you need an enclosure that has the measurements of 10x10x13 to achieve an airspace of .75. You might want to go an extra .5 on 2 of the sides to offset the amount of airspace that will be taken up by the basket assembly of the speaker. If you are making a sealed box then those figures will work for you. If you are going to have any kind of ports then you will need to factor in the amount of air the will displace also and adjust your box sizing accordingly. With that small of a box though you should be able to make a false floor without having to go into the pain of doing any fiberglass or anything. And of course you can adjust the size of each side to fit your needs and still come out with the same airspace. Just remember that you need to have at least an inch of clearance behind the magnet assy and the rear wall of the enclosure to allow it to breath and not over heat. And of course try and get your hands on some 3/4" MDF to build it out of. When making your cuts on the wood take into account the thickness of the wood also so you end up with the right measurements inside. And when you slap it all together, make sure to use Liquid nails on all the joints and then run a bead of silicone alond the inside to seal it up nice.... good luck....

 

[workin_on_it]

DON'T GO WITH A PORTED BOX! Obviousley you dont have the thiele small parameters so dont even think of a ported box as they require tuning. 1 cubic foot is equal to 1728 cubic centimeters as others have posted therefore, you want your box to be 1296 cubic inches plus the volume of the sub. Go with a sealed box and make sure you either insulate the walls or build it so 1 or more of the walls is on an angle to reduce standing waves. And as dudasd said use 3/4" MDF. if u have any other questions, just post m up or PM me. good luck man.

 

[DSMRevolution]

Originally posted by workin_on_it
DON'T GO WITH A PORTED BOX! Obviousley you dont have the thiele small parameters so dont even think of a ported box as they require tuning. 1 cubic foot is equal to 1728 cubic centimeters as others have posted therefore, you want your box to be 1296 cubic inches plus the volume of the sub. Go with a sealed box and make sure you either insulate the walls or build it so 1 or more of the walls is on an angle to reduce standing waves. And as dudasd said use 3/4" MDF. if u have any other questions, just post m up or PM me. good luck man.

Ok, so do I want to take LxWxH / 1728 or insted of 1728 use 1296? What is the difference between 1728 cubic centimeters and 1296 cubic inches? That is one thing I cant understand really. What is the volume of the sub though? dudasd said that I can just do the LxWxH / 1728 thing but at the end when I am assembling it, just add .5in to the wood dimensions. What is the difference between that and what you said? Sorry to be so with this...But thanks!!!!

Actually you need to take the total of the LxWxH aznd then divide it by 1728 to get the airspace of the enclosure. So for your needs you need an enclosure that has the measurements of 10x10x13 to achieve an airspace of .75. You might want to go an extra .5 on 2 of the sides to offset the amount of airspace that will be taken up by the basket assembly of the speaker. If you are making a sealed box then those figures will work for you. If you are going to have any kind of ports then you will need to factor in the amount of air the will displace also and adjust your box sizing accordingly. With that small of a box though you should be able to make a false floor without having to go into the pain of doing any fiberglass or anything. And of course you can adjust the size of each side to fit your needs and still come out with the same airspace. Just remember that you need to have at least an inch of clearance behind the magnet assy and the rear wall of the enclosure to allow it to breath and not over heat. And of course try and get your hands on some 3/4" MDF to build it out of. When making your cuts on the wood take into account the thickness of the wood also so you end up with the right measurements inside. And when you slap it all together, make sure to use Liquid nails on all the joints and then run a bead of silicone alond the inside to seal it up nice.... good luck....

Wow, thanks. That helped alot too. hopefully it turns out ok. I think I may start tomorrow on the box. And I am deffinatly going with a sealed box.


Thanks alot everybody so far for helping me understand this.

 

[JohnWH]

I would definetly go sealed. Ported and bandpass can be VERY tricky to tune just right, especially if you don't have much experience with the subject. Main thing: keep it AIR TIGHT. Go with 3/4" MDF board, wood screws, and liquid nails on all the joints. Goodluck.

 

[workin_on_it]

hey
my bad i meant 1728 cubic inches
1728 inches cubed is equivalent to 1 cubic foot
your box needs to be .75 cubic feet
multiply 1728 by .75 to get 1296 cubic inches.
this is the inside volume! if you use 3/4 inch MDF then you have to add an inch and a half to your L*W*H.
a typical 10 inch sub will take up about .1 to .15 cubic feet
multiply .1 by 1728 to get 172.8 cubic inches
add 172.8 to 1296 to get 1468.8
now just play around with this equation to get the inside demensions and add 1.5 to each one
1468.8=L*W*H
sorry about the centimeter thing man

 

[dudasd]

I posted the rough dimensinos for you in my previous post. If you use those you will do ok. One thing you need to look at before you decide to go with a sealed enclosure is if that sub is capable of running in a sealed box. I know not everyone has a lot of cash and we have to work with what we can get, but I'm not to sure on the Jensens. In the documentation for it it should tell you the recomended enclosures for the sub and if it can only go in a ported box then it should give you the tuning for the port which I can tell you how big to make the port. Once again good luck.

 

[DSMRevolution]

Originally posted by workin_on_it
hey
my bad i meant 1728 cubic inches
1728 inches cubed is equivalent to 1 cubic foot
your box needs to be .75 cubic feet
multiply 1728 by .75 to get 1296 cubic inches.
this is the inside volume! if you use 3/4 inch MDF then you have to add an inch and a half to your L*W*H.
a typical 10 inch sub will take up about .1 to .15 cubic feet
multiply .1 by 1728 to get 172.8 cubic inches
add 172.8 to 1296 to get 1468.8
now just play around with this equation to get the inside demensions and add 1.5 to each one
1468.8=L*W*H
sorry about the centimeter thing man

Oh, thanks! That makes it easier. I couldn't figure out what you ment by the cm. thing. This saturday I will be starting the project. Thanks

I posted the rough dimensinos for you in my previous post. If you use those you will do ok. One thing you need to look at before you decide to go with a sealed enclosure is if that sub is capable of running in a sealed box. I know not everyone has a lot of cash and we have to work with what we can get, but I'm not to sure on the Jensens. In the documentation for it it should tell you the recomended enclosures for the sub and if it can only go in a ported box then it should give you the tuning for the port which I can tell you how big to make the port. Once again good luck.

Ok that sounds good. Ill give Jensen one more call and ask them how the sub will run in a sealed enclosure before I start. Thanks

 

[93daytona]

hey....was the sub & box like 80$ at walmart or some store like that??? cuz if it is i had the same one n for the price it rocked.....i had a 450watt lightning audio amp pushing it n it held up fine...will the box just not fit? or do u just want to make a custom enclosure for it?????

 

[DSMRevolution]

Originally posted by 93daytona
hey....was the sub & box like 80$ at walmart or some store like that??? cuz if it is i had the same one n for the price it rocked.....i had a 450watt lightning audio amp pushing it n it held up fine...will the box just not fit? or do u just want to make a custom enclosure for it?????

yeah thats it. A friend of mine bought it first and it hit hard with a jensen 350w amp. I just decided to get something to make my music more interesting. The box fits fine but I want something that is more low to the floor. So thats when I decided to do something custom. Ill keep you updated with the project. Hopefully it sounds as good as it did when it was in the bandpass.

 

[93daytona]

yea....i know the sub prolly isnt that great.....keep me updated cuz im curious if the sub will hit nice in a diff. box, or if it was just the box that made it sound good

 

[93daytona]

and id keep the orig. box just in case