Check out what I just won...

[RuBiCaNT5X]

Take a gander...


New Subwoofer...

 

[97GSTURBO]

Sweet! I don't really consider it winning if you have to pay for it though.

 

[RuBiCaNT5X]

Originally posted by 97GSTURBO
Sweet! I don't really consider it winning if you have to pay for it though.

No doubt.. It was at 122 until some chump jacked the price up.. But it MSRP's for 399...

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

It looks like a rim that's kinda cool.

 

[phastalon]

that's pretty sweet, i've always liked those subs!
i want oooooooone

 

[HyperGSX]

That's the coolest sub i have ever seen...i like it a lot

 

[98TsiAWD]

Looks like a Motegi MR7 rim, nice.

But that adds wieght

 

[nutshot]

Be sure to run the recomended RMS rating (peak). Polk's historically have a thin VC and often freeze due to low power. Oh, also spend 20 hours breaking it in, or you will lose the leads. Have fun!

 

[98TsiAWD]

Originally posted by nutshot
Be sure to run the recomended RMS rating (peak). Polk's historically have a thin VC and often freeze due to low power. Oh, also spend 20 hours breaking it in, or you will lose the leads. Have fun!

RMS and PEAK are 2 different things...Im kinda confused by what you said?

 

[nutshot]

I meant the highest number in the RMS listing (the peak rating in that category), peak is measured using the limit of the speaker, RMS refers to the long-lasting power handling of a speaker. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[98TsiAWD]

Originally posted by nutshot
I meant the highest number in the RMS listing (the peak rating in that category), peak is measured using the limit of the speaker, RMS refers to the long-lasting power handling of a speaker. Sorry for the confusion.

I dont even look at peak power, RMS is all that matters. Who cares if X sub can take 3000watts peak for 1 second before blowing up, Peak power ratings are worthless.

 

[workin_on_it]

ya peak is the biggest joke out there. RMS is all that matters. haha i love how the grill is a rim. tell me how it sounds. ive never heard any polk stuff but i saw that in a magazine last month an thought it was tight.

 

[Dericsh]

the rim look rules!

 

[Bd1000Eclipse]

Originally posted by nutshot
Be sure to run the recomended RMS rating (peak). Polk's historically have a thin VC and often freeze due to low power. Oh, also spend 20 hours breaking it in, or you will lose the leads. Have fun!

newer subs do not require break-in, nor do they benefit from it.. it's not a good idea to blast them right away, but 20hours is way over kill.. they never break in nor sound different.. they are better when you get them, and sound tighter, which is better. How is breaking in going to keep you from "loosing the leads" i am guessing you are refering to the tinsel leads? the tinsel leads never break in, this is why you never read in subwoofer manuals about "breaking in" the subwoofer, because it' useless. i tell this from experience.. i have had many subs, blown many, and blown them when i DID break them in.. when i got my new 12's i went easy on them for a few days, but it wasen't neccessary.

also, how could sending to low of power "freeze" the coils? this is another subject i wont even touch, because it makes no sense.
also, RMS and peak power are two different things.

 

[RuBiCaNT5X]

Originally posted by 98TsiAWD
Looks like a Motegi MR7 rim, nice.

But that adds wieght

The sub weighs 34lbs, so it's not that much of a big deal with the rim look. It's probably a fiber plastic of some sort rather than metal.


I'm gonna have 200watts of RMS power going to that sub with an Alpine
MRV F450 5 Channel Amp. Basically I am gonna swap out the stock amp, rewire and send a speaker out to the trunk where this MM12 is gonna go.

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Product Specs

 

[meef]

-tight- sub, bro. that kicks arse

 

[RuBiCaNT5X]

Originally posted by meef
-tight- sub, bro. that kicks arse

Thanks!! Just hope it sounds good when I get it all setup.

 

[nutshot]

Originally posted by Bd1000Eclipse


newer subs do not require break-in, nor do they benefit from it.. it's not a good idea to blast them right away, but 20hours is way over kill.. they never break in nor sound different.. they are better when you get them, and sound tighter, which is better. How is breaking in going to keep you from "loosing the leads" i am guessing you are refering to the tinsel leads? the tinsel leads never break in, this is why you never read in subwoofer manuals about "breaking in" the subwoofer, because it' useless. i tell this from experience.. i have had many subs, blown many, and blown them when i DID break them in.. when i got my new 12's i went easy on them for a few days, but it wasen't neccessary.

also, how could sending to low of power "freeze" the coils? this is another subject i wont even touch, because it makes no sense.
also, RMS and peak power are two different things.

This, of course is not a flame war, nor an attack. I have talked to many people, have worked in the Car Audio sales field, and have burnt many subs. Most people would agree that break in is no longer necessary, nor beneficial with today's leads, or "tinsels". I have burnt an L5 Kicker, and the general agreement was that the leads, which snapped, were brittle from my 1 hour work commute. The leads would heat to a point of compliance, then cool slowly, which annealed the copper and caused the metal to become weak at the greatest flex point. Now I do not have that problem. Break in the sub, and it will last. Think of it like insurance. I hope you never need it, but atleast you have it.

 

[Bd1000Eclipse]

i agree with you, i too break my subs in even though they don't need to be.. i do however not believe that two little of power will "freeze" coils?

 

[RuBiCaNT5X]

Change in plans, fellas... I decided instead of going with a 5 channel amp, to get a 4 channel and separate mono subwoofer amp as well. I made a rough wire diagram, but tell me what you think and hook me up with some 1 channel suggestions. I was looking at JBL as a possiblity..

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