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Hey i was just curious if anyone has done a wire tuck in a 1g DSM... It would def help my engine bay from looking like a cluster ####.... I just love when you got those civics with the wireless look to it!! Thanks guys for your input!!!
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I would love to know this as well. And if you have, pictures are a MUST! I would love to clean up my engine bay by doing this, but would like to get an idea of what all I could remove and re-locate.
wiretucks aren't that popular with DSMS at all. I know there is a small thread on dsmtalk regarding this with a few pictures. Inorder to properly attain that "civic" look in the engine bay would require removal of ac, emissions, power steering, all resevoirs would have to be relocated to the firewall behind the engine, or within the fenders themselves. The main engine harness would have to be intirely altered or remade. You would then run the harness through the lower center portion of the firewall, again behind the engine, or through the frame rail near the transmission. The front harness that includes headlights etc, would be run through the passenger frame rail, below the front radiator support, and then return through the driver's side frame rail. Relocating the battery would also be necessary. Depending on how much you wanted to remove, you could also relocate the clutch master / brake master inside of the dash itself and mount it at a 90 degree angle from the firewall. You would then have to reweld all holes closed, shave all uneven surfaces, and most like stich weld all of the welds inside of the engine bay itself. There are small tricks you can do without this such as running a vacuum manifold below the intake manifold itself and running all vacuum lines to and from it inorder to reduce vacuum line cluster. You can then remove the plastic covering on the injector harness, lengthen the wires and run them below the rail. There should be several pictures of this on the board, as its rather common to do when you lessen the harness after installing a standalone and remove unnecessary solenoids. A good wire tuck will probably take you a year to complete allowing you are doing all the covering welds and repaint. Although its a small area and might not seem to be all that much work, its better to look at as if you were trying to personally install a widebody kit on your car while doing it your garage with only hand tools .
caged- that looks pretty good so far, but man the honda guys would kill some one who said tucked who retained cruise control My car didn't have a functional box so i ditched that, all emissions, battery, some of the harness, a majority of the lines since im running a vac manifold, right now I'm debating relocating the fuse box to under the dash and remaking a harness for it, but I think i might wait till summer so I can mig weld all the holes closed afterwards.
Have you guys ever thought of running your throttle cable under the fuel rail so its hidden? Thats how I have mine right now and you can't even tell its there. Here is the best "tuck" job I've seen on a 1g.
So I got kinda bored today so I attempted a wire tuck. I got sick of how it looked by the fuel rail so let me know what you think..If I did OK Im gonna keep workin on it. If not then I guess I suck at life.
So I got kinda bored today so I attempted a wire tuck. I got sick of how it looked by the fuel rail so let me know what you think..If I did OK Im gonna keep workin on it. If not then I guess I suck at life.
I did alot more, but didnt take pictures of it yet...will post them tommarow. Mostly just by the fuel rail..Theres alot of clutter from the 6 bolt install
Thanks alot!..lol..I know it's kind of confusing but it was so bad before that I had to unplug the injector wires and move everything just to get the vavle cover off.
most of it was tucked between the fuel rail and the Intake Manifold..
It looks ok, but let me give you a few ideas to consider.
1. Relocate the power transistor to this bracket on the firewall. You should only have to lengthen 1 wire.
2. Run the injector connectors underneath the fuel rail. Try to hide as much of the harness as you can with the fuel rail.
3. Loop your throttle cable underneath the intake manifold instead of on top. Then you can remove the two brackets for the cable that are attached to the fuel rail.
4. If any of the wires on that harness can be run under the intake manifold (like the a/c plug), untape the harness and split it into 2 harnesses. One goes on top of the manifold, one goes underneath.
Oh, and your tps is backwards It should look like this. Just unbolt it, turn it around, and rebolt it down. You will need to fine tune it then so the tps reads 100% when the throttle plate is fully opened. I don't think there is any gasket for it.
I contemplated that, the 6 bolt wire install is FUBAR..1 of the added wires is wrapped around the throttle cable so it wont alow the flex...probably gonna do it soon though..just needed a little more daylight..thanks for the suggestion though!
Last edited by Boostin2High; 01-15-2008 at 06:25 PM.
Reason: throttle to throttle cable
It looks ok, but let me give you a few ideas to consider.
1. Relocate the power transistor to this bracket on the firewall. You should only have to lengthen 1 wire.
2. Run the injector connectors underneath the fuel rail. Try to hide as much of the harness as you can with the fuel rail.
Pics aren't workin..
3. Loop your throttle cable underneath the intake manifold instead of on top. Then you can remove the two brackets for the cable that are attached to the fuel rail.
4. If any of the wires on that harness can be run under the intake manifold (like the a/c plug), untape the harness and split it into 2 harnesses. One goes on top of the manifold, one goes underneath.
[/QUOTE]Oh, and your tps is backwards [/QUOTE]
It was like that when i bought it..
Im thinkin since the harness it so messed up it was to short to reach...If I can get it to reach Ill eventually fix it, is there a certain gasket for it? because they used RTV
Actually the cruise control is gone..I removed the cruise module on the left. I know the bracket can be removed to but dont know what to do...any insight on it?
Last edited by Boostin2High; 01-15-2008 at 06:39 PM.
Reason: Removed not remover
Actually the cruise control is gone..I removed the cruise module on the left. I know the bracket can be removed to but dont know what to do...any insight on it?
To fully remove the cruise control, you will have to get a non-cruise control cable (MB948632).
Thanks for the post TurboSax. looks kind of tricky but Ill pick up the cable and give it a try..
The install is really easy. The hardest part is getting the cable disconnected from the gas pedal. That little yellow piece on the end of the cable can be a pita.
Here's a good site for oem parts. The non-cruise throttle cable is $37.06. Or you can check the classifieds too.
The install is really easy. The hardest part is getting the cable disconnected from the gas pedal. That little yellow piece on the end of the cable can be a pita.
Here's a good site for oem parts. The non-cruise throttle cable is $37.06. Or you can check the classifieds too.
Actually that was easy for me, the hardest part for me was getting to the 2 bolts on the firewall.
It helps when you have eliminated a/c, emissions, and tucked the harness down to the bottom of the firewall. Then there is absolutely nothing in the way
![Wire Tuck [Merged 7-9] tucks tucking wiring tucked](/forums/iconimages/appearance-interior-exterior/wire-tuck-merged-7-9-tucks-tucking-wiring-tucked_ltr.gif)
Wire Tuck [Merged 7-9] tucks tucking wiring tucked
My car didn't have a functional box so i ditched that, all emissions, battery, some of the harness, a majority of the lines since im running a vac manifold, right now I'm debating relocating the fuse box to under the dash and remaking a harness for it, but I think i might wait till summer so I can mig weld all the holes closed afterwards.
[/IMG]
just kiddin, but i see no difference
Thanks alot!
But I looks alot cleaner I may do the same on a rainy day it looks like a nest of wires.
It should look like this. Just unbolt it, turn it around, and rebolt it down. You will need to fine tune it then so the tps reads 100% when the throttle plate is fully opened. I don't think there is any gasket for it.
..1 of the added wires is wrapped around the throttle cable so it wont alow the flex...probably gonna do it soon though..just needed a little more daylight..thanks for the suggestion though!
