The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Morrison Fabrications
Please Support ExtremePSI

Wire Tuck [Merged 7-9] tucks tucking wiring tucked

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

MC23

15+ Year Contributor
45
0
Feb 8, 2004
hampton, Virginia
Hey i was just curious if anyone has done a wire tuck in a 1g DSM... It would def help my engine bay from looking like a cluster ####.... I just love when you got those civics with the wireless look to it!! Thanks guys for your input!!!:thumb:
 
I would love to know this as well. And if you have, pictures are a MUST! I would love to clean up my engine bay by doing this, but would like to get an idea of what all I could remove and re-locate.

Keylan
 
wiretucks aren't that popular with DSMS at all. I know there is a small thread on dsmtalk regarding this with a few pictures. Inorder to properly attain that "civic" look in the engine bay would require removal of ac, emissions, power steering, all resevoirs would have to be relocated to the firewall behind the engine, or within the fenders themselves. The main engine harness would have to be intirely altered or remade. You would then run the harness through the lower center portion of the firewall, again behind the engine, or through the frame rail near the transmission. The front harness that includes headlights etc, would be run through the passenger frame rail, below the front radiator support, and then return through the driver's side frame rail. Relocating the battery would also be necessary. Depending on how much you wanted to remove, you could also relocate the clutch master / brake master inside of the dash itself and mount it at a 90 degree angle from the firewall. You would then have to reweld all holes closed, shave all uneven surfaces, and most like stich weld all of the welds inside of the engine bay itself. There are small tricks you can do without this such as running a vacuum manifold below the intake manifold itself and running all vacuum lines to and from it inorder to reduce vacuum line cluster. You can then remove the plastic covering on the injector harness, lengthen the wires and run them below the rail. There should be several pictures of this on the board, as its rather common to do when you lessen the harness after installing a standalone and remove unnecessary solenoids. A good wire tuck will probably take you a year to complete allowing you are doing all the covering welds and repaint. Although its a small area and might not seem to be all that much work, its better to look at as if you were trying to personally install a widebody kit on your car while doing it your garage with only hand tools .
 
caged- that looks pretty good so far, but man the honda guys would kill some one who said tucked who retained cruise control ;) My car didn't have a functional box so i ditched that, all emissions, battery, some of the harness, a majority of the lines since im running a vac manifold, right now I'm debating relocating the fuse box to under the dash and remaking a harness for it, but I think i might wait till summer so I can mig weld all the holes closed afterwards.
 
Have you guys ever thought of running your throttle cable under the fuel rail so its hidden? Thats how I have mine right now and you can't even tell its there. Here is the best "tuck" job I've seen on a 1g.
 

Attachments

  • car20129.jpg
    car20129.jpg
    58.7 KB · Views: 15,638
So I got kinda bored today so I attempted a wire tuck. I got sick of how it looked by the fuel rail so let me know what you think..If I did OK Im gonna keep workin on it. If not then I guess I suck at life.

BEFORE
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
[/IMG]


AFTER
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
So I got kinda bored today so I attempted a wire tuck. I got sick of how it looked by the fuel rail so let me know what you think..If I did OK Im gonna keep workin on it. If not then I guess I suck at life.

BEFORE
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o279/printzndamud/Picture053.jpg

AFTER
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o279/printzndamud/IMG_0019.jpg

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o279/printzndamud/IMG_0020.jpg

I did alot more, but didnt take pictures of it yet...will post them tommarow. Mostly just by the fuel rail..Theres alot of clutter from the 6 bolt install
 
:mad:Thanks alot!:mad:..LOL..I know it's kind of confusing but it was so bad before that I had to unplug the injector wires and move everything just to get the vavle cover off.
most of it was tucked between the fuel rail and the Intake Manifold..
 
Run the injector wires under the fuel rail.
 
It looks ok, but let me give you a few ideas to consider.

1. Relocate the power transistor to this bracket on the firewall. You should only have to lengthen 1 wire.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


2. Run the injector connectors underneath the fuel rail. Try to hide as much of the harness as you can with the fuel rail.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


3. Loop your throttle cable underneath the intake manifold instead of on top. Then you can remove the two brackets for the cable that are attached to the fuel rail.

4. If any of the wires on that harness can be run under the intake manifold (like the a/c plug), untape the harness and split it into 2 harnesses. One goes on top of the manifold, one goes underneath.

Oh, and your tps is backwards :confused: It should look like this. Just unbolt it, turn it around, and rebolt it down. You will need to fine tune it then so the tps reads 100% when the throttle plate is fully opened. I don't think there is any gasket for it.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It looks ok, but let me give you a few ideas to consider.

1. Relocate the power transistor to this bracket on the firewall. You should only have to lengthen 1 wire.

attachment.php


2. Run the injector connectors underneath the fuel rail. Try to hide as much of the harness as you can with the fuel rail.

attachment.php

Pics aren't workin..

3. Loop your throttle cable underneath the intake manifold instead of on top. Then you can remove the two brackets for the cable that are attached to the fuel rail.

4. If any of the wires on that harness can be run under the intake manifold (like the a/c plug), untape the harness and split it into 2 harnesses. One goes on top of the manifold, one goes underneath.

[/QUOTE]Oh, and your tps is backwards :confused:[/QUOTE]

It was like that when i bought it..
Im thinkin since the harness it so messed up it was to short to reach...If I can get it to reach Ill eventually fix it, is there a certain gasket for it? because they used RTV
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top