Recommendations on car audio

[kwkdsm]

I have a kenwood cd player now with sirius tuner under center console. im wanting a good sounding system but dont wanna sacrifice weight/room, and definetly dont want to rattle my hatch. I used to be into car audio pretty heavy with a ppi 600 rms and a jl 15w6----needless to say way to much for the eclipse, Any help would be appreciated.

 

[DGajre777]

I don't see why 600 RMS would be way too much for an eclipse. I know people running 1000 Watts RMS. If you don't want to ratte your hatch, point the subs towards the glass and dynomat the plastic area under the panels. I have a dual 12" sub box 1.0cu ft each in the hatch and it fits perfectly. It is a Qlogic QLH-12D100 sub box.

Go to www.crutchfield.com and find a setup that you like. I recommend Class D amps because they suck less current (good when you are still on your stock alternator).

 

[a_scobel]

Decent thread that may be able to help you here.

 

[napkinthief]

I have a sony setup, the biggest xplod amp they carry, 1400 max, 2 channel @ 300 rms each. I paired it up with 2 L122p5s, 12 inch subs that handle 320 rms each. The sound is crazy loud on my pioneer deh-1500 headunit, which goes up to 30. In town I keep it around 17 and the bass thumps but is good, not too loud not faint either. My components are stock.

 

[snyper1982]

Class D's suck no more current than a similarly rated Clas AB. Ohm's Law says so. They just produce the power more efficiently.Less, heat smaller components, etc, but regardless, If it is pumping out 1000 watts at 14.4 volts, it is still drawing 70 amps, same as a class AB amp pushing out 1000 watts at 14.4 volts.

 

[bmason]

i am hitting 147db in my elcipse with 1 12" eclipse titanium running of a apline mrd-m1005 and it pointed at the glass and i have no ratting problem other then my radar dector and i have done any dynamatting and that amp puts out about 1800 watts