The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

mold it on!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

rspro

20+ Year Contributor
68
0
May 2, 2003
vb, Virginia
Hey, guys I'm going to start molding my bodykit on this weekend. I went around and got some estimates for bodywork and paint they were anywhere from 3K to 5K. I would rather spend that type of money on building my motor and a turbo kit. Just wondering if you body shop guys have any pointers. I would really appreciate it. :)
 
is it a daily driven car?

if so-
my recomendation would be to not mold the front and back bumpers. just the side skirts.
other wise you will have cracks in the molded area on the bumpers after a little while of driving. People can argue this all they want. Molding bumpers to car does NOT last on daily driven cars.
 
I agree with him. Dont mold the front or back. Not only does drivin make them crack. But how many times have u drove over an animal in the road dead and been like phewwww good thing i didnt have a body kit. Point is if u do that with a body kit u'll most likely break the kit. then u'll have a molded broken kit stuck to ur car. Pain in the but to fix. :thumb: Good luck tho man. Post pics when ur done to let us no how it went.
 
Ok, I actually have personal experience with this. I've had my rear bumper, and side skirts, molded on for about a year and a half with no cracks, and my car is daily driven. The trick is, to secure the bumper on before molding it. I used double sided automotive tape (I forget the brand) and good old fashioned screws and bolts (even used teflon tape on the threads for insurance) to hold everything tightly in place before molding the pieces on. It's held strong so far, through rain, and huge puddles, snow, scrapes, unfortunate road killed cats, and Grand Canyon sized pot holes.

:talon:
 
put2gether said:
Ok, I actually have personal experience with this. I've had my rear bumper, and side skirts, molded on for about a year and a half with no cracks, and my car is daily driven. The trick is, to secure the bumper on before molding it. I used double sided automotive tape (I forget the brand) and good old fashioned screws and bolts (even used teflon tape on the threads for insurance) to hold everything tightly in place before molding the pieces on. It's held strong so far, through rain, and huge puddles, snow, scrapes, unfortunate road killed cats, and Grand Canyon sized pot holes.

:talon:

Then you are lucky LOL! My kit is not molded, and I have stress cracks all over throughout the paint where its just bolted from bottoming out and pot holes.
 
put2gether said:
Ok, I actually have personal experience with this. I've had my rear bumper, and side skirts, molded on for about a year and a half with no cracks, and my car is daily driven. The trick is, to secure the bumper on before molding it. I used double sided automotive tape (I forget the brand) and good old fashioned screws and bolts (even used teflon tape on the threads for insurance) to hold everything tightly in place before molding the pieces on. It's held strong so far, through rain, and huge puddles, snow, scrapes, unfortunate road killed cats, and Grand Canyon sized pot holes.

:talon:

i have experience too. with customer cars and my own. you got lucky if your molding did not crack. I have seen body kits them self begin to crack from stress and flexing. While i believe it is possible that you have escaped cracking for this long, I can garuntee not many people are that lucky with molded parts
 
If the paint cracks... maybe it's a bad paint job, or the kit isn't supported properly. If the kit itself cracks from stress... maybe it's a cheap kit that isn't supported properly. I also have a 1g eclipse I molded a kit on over 3 years ago, not to mertion cars I've done for other people... all still crack free. I'm no pro, but I've done my share of painting and bodywork. Bodywork is the key. Do it right, or do it twice. I took extra steps (double sided tape, lots of screws, washers, and teflon tape), to ensure I wouldn't have any problems. Either I was born lucky, or lots of prep work pays off.
 
I still think its too big of a gamble. never know what can happen. Fiberglass breaks, whether we like to admit it or not. My big problem isnt with the molding, its with the fact that a gazillion hours of work will have to be done to change out the bumper if its broken. Just not worth it in any logical mind. Body lines arent that ugly. I personally kinda like em, cuz without lines a car looks like a toy to me. Just my 2 cents. Good luck tho
 
Well, I molded just the rear bumper this weekend. I made sure it's secured before the molding. My problem is that I cannot get it smooth enough...I'm going to sand it more next weekend and I plan on molding the skirts on too. I'm not doing the front because I planning to go turbo after I get it painted. :thumb: ......thanks for the advice guys :D
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2g rear brace arms
    2g rear subframe brace arms. Missing one of the bushing spacers. No rust. Had someone looking...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1g 1GB Eclipse Tail Lights
    1GB Eclipse Tail Lights $80 + shipping and paypal fees* not flawless but in very good shape...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale LC2
    Used LC2
    • Anthony Hornback
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1g Flip up covers
    Pair of black flip up covers
    • Anthony Hornback
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1g Flip up headlight
    One red flip up headlight and the black trim piece for the other
    • Anthony Hornback
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top