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How do you cut plexiglass?

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phastalon

20+ Year Contributor
584
2
Nov 20, 2002
Knoxville, Tennessee
Do you all have any suggestions on cutting plexiglass? I have some spare stuff that I got from work and it's basically a cube of plexiglass that is 1'x1'x1' and I have no idea how to even take it apart without breaking it. What I'm wanting to make is a holder for my s-afc that goes under my cd player, but right now I don't have any idea how to cut it.

Thanks

Brad
 
What do you mean "cube"? Solid cube? or like a box cube?
Acrylic can be cut using a bandsaw or other similar saw. Dont use a dremel or a cut-off tool because it will melt the acrylic. I work with Lexan a lot, which is a polycarbonate, but its basically just a really strong plexiglass. Before i bought a Laser Cutter, i was using a bandsaw with a fine tooth blade, and it worked well.
If you do up a CAD drawing of an AFC holder that will fit under the radio, or wherever, send it to me and i can use the Laser to cut it out.
If you decide to do that, be sure to include the holes where the screws will go. It can be very intricate.
Let me know if you are interested in that.
-Tim
 
[QUOTE='96_Talon_TSi]Can you cut it with a dremel cutting wheel ?[/QUOTE]

yes... u just need to smooth it back with a grinding bit to take out the roughness... but yes... and it works very well
 
We (in the theater) just cut it with a table saw. The little chunks that fly off are like wicked hot though so be careful.
 
I have a 3 gauge holder that I bought from someone on here a while back and it actually just pops into the din, no screws or anything, and it works very well. I was going to use that as a template, then just cut out the hole for the afc.

I've tried scoring it, but found out quick that it will never work. I tried the cutoff tool and it did start to melt it and wasn't very precise. I also tried a jigsaw and found out that it was too rough and was causing the plexiglass to break. I'll try to pick up a dremel with a cutoff wheel and see how that works.

Thanks for the offer tim but I wouldn't even know how to get a CAD design. I don't have access to a bandsaw, so I'll try the dremel idea next.

Thanks guys!
 
How would you use a bandsaw to cut out the hole for the afc? I assume you could only use it to cut the exterior of the holder, but not where the afc would go.
 
Doesn't the AFC get warm/hot? They have vent holes on top to allow heat to escape. I wouldn't close all that in.

I built basically a block out of plexiglass that sits above my stereo and the SAFC-2 is double sided taped to it. The block holds it away from the A/C dials so I can still use them.

I considered putting it below the stereo, but I wanted more visibility while driving so I put it above the stereo. I think it looks pretty good.

I'll take a pic. of it if you want, lemme know.
 
kingoftheroses said:
We (in the theater) just cut it with a table saw. The little chunks that fly off are like wicked hot though so be careful.

If that isn't the truth. Wear eye protection AND something over your mouth, that stuff sucks to get in your eyes (i speak from experience with a dremel: little molten bits of plexi in your eyes is not fun)

-Steve
 
sjwelna said:
If that isn't the truth. Wear eye protection AND something over your mouth, that stuff sucks to get in your eyes (i speak from experience with a dremel: little molten bits of plexi in your eyes is not fun)

-Steve

I think molten anything in your eyes would not be fun! OMG
 
depending on how thick of plexi you are using, i'd assume 1/8", i'd use a dremel. i did the exact same thing using 1/8", and your right, it pressure fit into place nicely

for the outside shape... i'd cut it a bit oversized, then hand sand it using 80grit or so to get a perfect fit

as for the inner holes, dremel it slightly undersized, and again... hand sand or use a flat file to get the perfect size. taking off little bits at a time.

be careful, too much pressure or working too fast can cause it to crack, and that sucks

use eyewear as mentioned... dremels throw piece of that fun hot molten that some people seem to enjoy getting in their eyes! :p
 
I agree safety goggles are a must. I found that the plexiglass always melts w/ using a dremel, but dont worry about it, you can go back over it and break off hte melted part with a thumb.

Also, just grind it down with the circlular drum dremel tool afterward...
 
WOW!




Look, you need a negative hook blade if you're cutting with a SAW

there are specially made blades by FREUD that will cut plastic / polycarbonate (Lexan) / or Plexiglass flawlessly

If ya got the skills though, make a template, affix it to the plastic and cut with a ROUTER... for drilling you need a specialty drill bit, but I suspect a step bit will suit you fine. even a small drill press offers unbeatable control, safety, and accuracy.


DONT WASTE YOUR TIME WITH A F'n DREMEL :laugh: glaze those rough cut edges with a torch -even a little propane or MAPP gas torch works fine... it will turn back into crystal clear plastic once you tease it with the smokey wrench :thumb:

"tru-dat" on the safety glasses, eyeballs are tough to repair/replace, so WEAR your :cool:
 
If you're sorta smart you can create a C.A.D. file and email it to me or anyone with a CNC router and your part can be precision cut for probably less than $50 plus materials, to .001" or better accuracy. I'd even "polish" the edges for that ;)

Beat that with Grandpa's hobby tools!

unless you work for crap pay, it isn't cost effective to fabricate parts with improper or otherwise non-professional tools or machinery.
 
GIXXER95 said:
WOW!
Look, you need a negative hook blade if you're cutting with a SAW

there are specially made blades by FREUD that will cut plastic / polycarbonate (Lexan) / or Plexiglass flawlessly

If ya got the skills though, make a template, affix it to the plastic and cut with a ROUTER... for drilling you need a specialty drill bit, but I suspect a step bit will suit you fine. even a small drill press offers unbeatable control, safety, and accuracy.


DONT WASTE YOUR TIME WITH A F'n DREMEL :laugh: glaze those rough cut edges with a torch -even a little propane or MAPP gas torch works fine... it will turn back into crystal clear plastic once you tease it with the smokey wrench :thumb:

"tru-dat" on the safety glasses, eyeballs are tough to repair/replace, so WEAR your :cool:

no offense GIXXER95, as your methods are correct and probably the best...

but if your looking to save yourself $20 / blade for specialty blades, and few bucks for a step bit, don't have a router available (or $60+ to buy one), and no drill press either...

a $20 dremel WILL work just fine. i've made a few that way with little to no problems, and many others have done the same!

BTW, does GIXXER95 stand for the bike? i've got a 2000, love it, but trying to sell.
 
wow, thanks again for the replies. i'm gonna try the dremel method with a cutting tool and do just as devlish suggested (cut it oversized on the outside and sand it down with sandpaper, vice versa for the inside).

i purchased my gauge holder from someone on here for i think $15 shipped, so spending $50 for a diy part is a little high for me. it's not that i can't afford it, but i still want to learn how to do it on my own in case there's something else i'd like to make later on.

thanks again!
 
on the topic of cutting it, a jigsaw has never failed me i think it works greak in cuts threw it really easy too.
 
if using a jigsaw, use a very fine toothed blade. i found that the jarring motion of the jigsaw was too much, and sometimes caused the 1/8" plexi/lexan to crack. on thicker stuff, 1/4" and thicker, it works OK for me. just use a fine blade, and take it slow
 
Don't cut it at a really high speed, but at a slower speed. Use a real fine tooth cutter/blade. Leave the paper on it until you're done.
 
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