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What Amp do I need?

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dsm4bk

20+ Year Contributor
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Nov 25, 2002
I am not experienced with audio, so I need to know what kind of amp I need for this subwoofer I just bought.

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Memphis 12" will handle 400watts rms (it says) and it said 600W. Also says single voice coil (whatever that means). And will my Clarion 35 x 5 deck be able to hook up to this? (Its an older deck) and doesn't have a sub control in any of the menus.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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dsm4bk said:
I am not experienced with audio, so I need to know what kind of amp I need for this subwoofer I just bought.

This is it:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Memphis 12" will handle 400watts rms (it says) and it said 600W. Also says single voice coil (whatever that means). And will my Clarion 35 x 5 deck be able to hook up to this? (Its an older deck) and doesn't have a sub control in any of the menus.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

trust me the other kid's an idiot :rolleyes: , my memphis 1000d amp kicked more ass per square foot than any other amp in the world. i'm sure this sub will do the same. i'd go with a smallish amp from someone like sony, kicker, pioneer, or rockford fosgate. 400rms is a smaller sub, so you don't need a monster amp to power it. just get something that putts out somewhere around 400watts max and you'll never have to worry about overpowering it.

as for your headunit issues i couldn't tell you whether or not it will immediately work or not, if you don't have a sub pre-out just run it off of a rear rca out and then look to see if you can find an amp that has an adjustable remote gain control so that you can adjust just how loud your sub will be according to what music you're listening to at the time. i had this on my 1000d and it was wonderful to work with in concert with my adjustable sub pre-out on the head unit i had.
 

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I may have missed reading it in your initial post, but see what type resistance the sub has? How many ohms? If it's a single voice coil, just get a modest mono-amp like the rest of the guys suggested that puts out like 400 max at the same load (resistance) as your sub.
 
Mods please dont close another thread on account of other peoples immaturity. This guy is looking for help, and hasn't gotten any, can you guys just erase the non helpful posts (all of them accept for mavisky's) and let this one start fresh? I hate to see when this types of shit happens, it's just a drain on every body.
 
14.5 drift said:
Mods please dont close another thread on account of other peoples immaturity. This guy is looking for help, and hasn't gotten any, can you guys just erase the non helpful posts (all of them accept for mavisky's) and let this one start fresh? I hate to see when this types of shit happens, it's just a drain on every body.
Goddamnit, did you bother to look again before clicking "reply"?
 
To the thread starters, just to name off a few of the amps I like, phoenix gold, precision power, rockfords bd series, any thing from jl, and kickers mono's are quite stout also. Just find one that alligns the specs the best. Cheapest would probly be one of the bdseries on ebay (thats where I got my bd1500 for 350) and for top of the line I would say jl's mono amps are really second to none but very expensive. Hope that helps some.
 
mavisky said:
trust me the other kid's an idiot :rolleyes: , my memphis 1000d amp kicked more ass per square foot than any other amp in the world. i'm sure this sub will do the same. i'd go with a smallish amp from someone like sony, kicker, pioneer, or rockford fosgate. 400rms is a smaller sub, so you don't need a monster amp to power it. just get something that putts out somewhere around 400watts max and you'll never have to worry about overpowering it.

Sony and Pioneer have really high THD (white noise), so I would not recomend either of those brands in general. Rockford has not been winning accolades as of late either. Kicker is rock solid still, and their D class sub amps are powerful for the price. I would also suggest MTX's D class sub amps for your application. Check out www.cmttrading.com for sweet deals on last years amps at low prices. Definitely look for 400 watts, but gauge the power rating at 14.4 volts @ 2 ohms (your sub is most likely 4 ohm, and when bridged makes 2 ohms at the amp) because that is what your sub will recieve with the car running.

mavisky said:
as for your headunit issues i couldn't tell you whether or not it will immediately work or not, if you don't have a sub pre-out just run it off of a rear rca out and then look to see if you can find an amp that has an adjustable remote gain control so that you can adjust just how loud your sub will be according to what music you're listening to at the time. i had this on my 1000d and it was wonderful to work with in concert with my adjustable sub pre-out on the head unit i had.

I agree, but most amps have only an adjustable bass gain control, which is pretty lame. You might want to consider upgrading your deck.

On a final note, buy a capacitor. I don't care what your budget is, a capacitor is cheaper than replacing a burned ECU. :thumb:
 
not sure exactly what happenened cause the email notification wasn't notifying me, but I got all the info needed in the replies that are here. Thanks.
 
a 400w max amp could be as little as 50wx4....


try instead a mono amp from JBL or Kicker... look for one that does a true 300-400 w RMS into a (4?) ohm load...

you really need to find out if the voice coil is 2 ohm, 4 ohm, 8 ohm, etc... you need that spec to match the amps RMS power at that load to the subs RMS requirement.



I try to get close particularly in a ported box because you need the control over the cone since you don't have the "air spring" of a sealed box to help control the cone motion.
 
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