The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

Bad Oil Leak

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

1996Eclipse420a

10+ Year Contributor
162
1
Jan 12, 2012
Wilkesboro, North_Carolina
Once again, I hate to keep bothering you guys. I'm at a point to where I'm fed up. Nothing seems to be going right. I just installed my turbo setup last Thursday. Filled her up with oil, (Pennzoil) and I've since driven it 500 miles. I go to check the oil and it's on the MINIMUM mark on the dip stick.

Before we start talking about solutions, I'll go ahead and tell you, the turbo is fine, the oil return is fine, and the oil feed is fine. No leaks whatsoever there.

I will tell you that oil is still running down the oil filter, but it's coming from somewhere above it, and no not the head gasket. I'm thinking more like the crank angle sensor? The cam seals fixed my earlier issue. There is one LITTLE spot on the head gasket, coming from the top of the gasket, in the center of the head. I had the head surfaced. This to me seems like it isn't the cause of them problem, or at least I don't see how.

My leak is somewhere directly above the oil filter... and my oil pan is missing 2 bolts. right beside each other. I don't think this would cause the issue either, but hell I could be wrong.

EDIT: also, keep in mind, I have not installed MS yet. I'm running 7lbs, with no tuning system installed whatsoever. I haven't ran it in boost at all though. Megasquirt is ready to be installed though. Just one "noob" question though. Can I use my stock harness to install it, or do I need to purchase a MS wiring harness?

also, I have some oil on the cross member. As stated above, I don't see a head gasket blowing oil clean down the back of the motor in 500 miles.

Anybody have any ideas?
 
During your build did you take the oil filter adapter off to clean the block? If so thats it. I made the same mistake the adapter mounts to the block with only an O ring between the surfaces the rest of the joint is a machinened surface and will cause a leak right above the oil filter if damaged. Ive tried gasket material Silicone gasket maker with no luck what so ever. Good luck.
 
Actually I did take it off and clean it. I power coated it as well because I power coated the block. The I ring wasn't in correctly the first time, so I repositioned it to where it is suppose to be.

Have you found a solution yet? I'll pull it off tomorrow as inspect it to see if it's leaking.
 
No I have not figured that out yet. Shortly after if figured out where the oil was coming from my 2g stopped running....3+ years later Im still trying to get it running again.
 
You need to get those 2 bolts right beside each other for the pan. I had a similar situation where I didnt tighten two bolts on the pan and it leaked pretty good.
 
Thanks for the response guys. The cross member sits right under the small side of the oil pan. That's the side where the screws were left out. So maybe that's why it's dripping off the cross member too.

If it so happens to not be it, is there any reason to suspect a head gasket leak? I mean, that sounds awful fast for a HG leak. I thought they were more of a seepage leak.
 
Yep do that first it wont take long. Put the bolts in and while the cross member is off and car still on jacks, get someone to rev the engine and see where its dripping from if there even is one after that.
 
I'll definitely check it after work. I know I'll have atleast one more leak from the oil filter housing. The o ring is t sealing it up correctly, and then from the crank sensor. I hear Neons have issues with crank sensor leaks as well. I'll try some rtv or something. Hopefully it will work.
 
Also since you are missing those two bolts right next to each other, if you started the car before the rtv had time to cure it would cause a leak for you as well. If i was you i would just take the oil pan off and redo everything and add those bolts just so you only have to do it once and you know its not due to the oil pan that way.
 
I've got it fixed. One bolt was left out when I built it. (the closest bolt to the backside of the transmission in the corner) I didn't think it would hurt anything. Over time, my cross member was getting a little wet. Never thought about it being that bolt.

When I put my turbo on, one bolt was so short, it wouldn't thread up, so I left it out too, and it was right beside the first bolt I left out.

Long story short, It made the first leak worse, and it was throwing it all out of that corner, on the transmission, and the cross member. I just put 2 bolts in it yesterday and tightened it up and so far it appears to be holding.

As far as the crank sensor leak, I may try a new crank sensor. I've tried RTV around it, but it keeps leaking from the bottom of it. Not a huge leak. Maybe a drip off the oil filter, after I drive it.

EDIT* It's not the oil filter housing, as I've already checked. It's definitely the crank sensor. I hear people with Neon's having trouble with this leak as well, so who knows.
 
just be glad you dont have my issue, my car leaks and blows oil. its coming from the valve cover no matter howmany times i rtv it oil seems to leak into the spark plug tunnels... i will take into consideration running 15-20psi on a built 420 will cause problems but it also leaks after i shut the car off it takes about 2weeks to run dry depending on how i drive it.... but i only run royal or brad penn. i think the 10-30 is too light of an oil for these motors try 10-40 and check every little corner where oil is just sitting
 
just be glad you dont have my issue, my car leaks and blows oil. its coming from the valve cover no matter howmany times i rtv it oil seems to leak into the spark plug tunnels... i will take into consideration running 15-20psi on a built 420 will cause problems but it also leaks after i shut the car off it takes about 2weeks to run dry depending on how i drive it.... but i only run royal or brad penn. i think the 10-30 is too light of an oil for these motors try 10-40 and check every little corner where oil is just sitting

Sounds like your rings where filed a little too loose and you are getting excessive crankcase pressure from it. A catch can would probably GREATLY reduce the amount of oil you are pushing past the seals. Running 20 psi on a properly built motor with supporting mods will have no ill effect on it.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top