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Posted by Haase, Sep 24, 2010
420A Turbo Conversion - Turbo kits, swaps, etc - specific to 2G N/T DSMs.
Also, what's this about tapping into the PCV line for your blow off valve?
Also, are you running a restrictor?
but then i know people who say take that crap out, and hook it into your FPR vacum line thats if you have no where else to do it.
the oil return line came with the turbo, so i don't think its too small, and i don't think im running a restrictor. I'm pretty sure the oil leak is getting into my exhaust somehow somewhere and that's ### is causing the massive smoking
yea the PCV valve is common to tap into for these projects, but my oil return line enters my oil pan at the top on the deeper side of it, on the top opposite side my oil plug is
No oil restrictor!? pull of your down pipe and see if theres is any oil or some kind of build up in there.
eBay turbo. Maybe a restrictor will solve the smoking but if it's one of these eBay turbo kits then there's a strong chance it will fail.
its not an eBay turbo, its a Hahns racecraft super 16G that i bought from another member on here. it only has 1000 miles on it so i doubt the shaft seals are blown it... as for the restrictor, i didn't add one but to be honest im not sure what it is so i guess i can't answer that 100%
Also, would it matter if i mistakenly swapped places of my oil feed and oil return lines? as in i put the feed where the return should be and vise versa? I don't think i did but im just throwing out ideas... would that make any difference?
You should always put a restrictor on the oil feed side. It's a little fitting that shrinks the diameter of the inlet feed so that it can only reach a certain pressure. On a fresh start, our oil pressure can reach as high as 90+ psi which will fry just about ANY turbo, ball bearing or not. They are more important when switching to a ball bearing turbo, because those cannot handle as high of an oil pressure as journal bearing, but our car also doesn't have a low oil pressure oil pump like those of our turbo counterparts, so even a journal bearing turbo doesn't like our stock pressure.
Yes, that would make all the difference in the world. Just ask Carter. If you swapped those lines, you 100%, for a fact, blew your seals and it will need rebuilt.
The feed should be a smaller diameter than the drain.
so would this be wrong you think? i apologize i had to do the writing on the photo editor on my phone . the return is at the exact same kind of angle just in the back of the turbo where you can't see it
Uh-oh... so does that mean that this turbo wont work unless i modify a downpipe off the manifold to turn the turbo over, kinda like a stock 4G63 turbo setup???
I am not familiar with that specific turbo but it looks like you will need to loosen the turbine housing clamp and probably take of a snap ring on the cold side and rotate your center section.
OOOOOOOOOH ok! I'm sorry i must seem retarded but this is my first time ever messing wit anything to do wit a turbo . ill see if i can mess around wit it tomorrow and let you guys know how it goes, thanks again, and if anyone has anymore input feel free to post it cause i still need all the help i can get
yea i haven't looked at it in detail yet but im not sure how to separate the cold side from the middle part, but after realizing what it really was (and hitting myself for not realizing it) i found out i am running with a restrictor. Once i get the turbo apart and back together how should i check to see if the seals are blown???
there is no shaft play at all, that part of it is for sure good
this guy just in case it is toast. He does really good work from all the rants and raves I've read on here.