The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Td05 12b

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

brandonwh64

10+ Year Contributor
758
3
Mar 9, 2011
Chatsworth, Georgia
I used the search and found some threads but most for were 4g63 based.

i just picked up one of these TD05 12B turbos with no shaft play real cheap! i know its not a bad ass turbo or anything but would it be ideal for running a small 5-8PSI on my 420A?

Any thoughts on this?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
It will spool faster than hell... But they may be topped out at 8psi, imo.
 
It will spool faster than hell... But they may be topped out at 8psi, imo.

Atleast i can get 8SPI out of it, I dont think this stock 161K engine would handle much more. I dont plan on running no more than 5-7PSI. Does it have the TD05 flange as the 14B does?
 
Perfect for a low-boost application.

Thank you! from what i was reading by doing a google search is that some people have ported them out and used a 20G housing with compressor wheel. Dont think i will be doing that personally but its good to know that there is hope for this old volvo turbo
 
12g huh..Damm i bet thats more than insta spool..I remember the spool of the 13g..This thing would be even quicker damm..

Yea from the other forums i have browsed, it does have a fast spool time. It came off of a 1989 Volvo 740ti turbo wagon
 
Thank you! from what i was reading by doing a google search is that some people have ported them out and used a 20G housing with compressor wheel.
Why go through all that work when you'd actually have better performance at 8psi with the 12B.

Some things are better left alone.
 
Why go through all that work when you'd actually have better performance at 8psi with the 12B.

Some things are better left alone.

Yes that is the best way to run this turbo.

With 5-7PSI i would still have to get a 12:1 FMU and a 255L hp Fuel pump?
 
With 5-7PSI i would still have to get a 12:1 FMU and a 255L hp Fuel pump?

Yessir, that's the bare minimum fuel setup for a 420a turbo setup...along with Missing Link of a fuel cut defender unless you drive a 95.
 
Yessir, that's the bare minimum fuel setup for a 420a turbo setup...along with Missing Link of a fuel cut defender unless you drive a 95.

Ok thanks! i will start looking for those. Also i found on ebay a T3 turbo manifold for the 420a and a T3 to TD05/T25/T28 adapter that i will need as well so it looks like it will come together well once i continue piecing.
 
UPDATE! got the turbo in today. It looks very well for coming off an 1989 model car. I know there is some things missing so if you see anything point it out. there is ZERO shaft play in and out nor side to side.

OK couple questions i have. I did some research and found that this is water cooled and oil cooled but do i have to do both or just run the oil lines like i would other turbos?

It is a small turbo but it should do what i need it to do

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


This is the whole package i received

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Yes it has a built on BOV

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Will this fit a T3 manifold? I know i can adapt but it looks VERY simular

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


The only thing i see thats alittle off is this part. The part i have on the thumb is loose and the turbine wheel hits this if the turbo is upside down. should this part be alittle loose?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
That should end up getting clamped down when you put the turbine housing on.

Oh ok, yea i have the clamp but not bolt for it. I will run by ace hardware and locate a small bolt with nut to secure it. Also as i asked before, this turn does water and oil cooled but do i have to do both or just oil? also im wondering if i would have to run a restrictor for the oil?

Its funny cause it has the waistgate and a built on BOV on the compressor housing.
 
That is a very strange turbo to say the least..But to answer your question yes most turbo's are water(coolant cooled) and oil cooled..Well that's how thay are on turbo dsm's..

IDKd if this article will help you understand your build or not but it's worth reading.. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...uild-420a-stage-2-turbo-kit-under-1000-a.html

So it DOES have to have both OIL and WATER? if so i need to figure out which goes where on this turbo and find the connectors. I know how to run the oil lines but how do you run the water lines?
 
I couldnt tell you by the pictures..But there should be oil feed, oil return, coolant in, and coolant out..So 4 holes you need to look for in the center section of that turbo..
 
I couldnt tell you by the pictures..But there should be oil feed, oil return, coolant in, and coolant out..So 4 holes you need to look for in the center section of that turbo..

Yep i see the 4 holes. all are threaded except one and its got two threaded holes beside it and somewhat of a gasket left.

Is there a guide around here that shows how to hook up the coolant lines to your engine?
 
Yes but i don't know how to find it..It was posted a couple days ago I might try to dig up the thread for you..

But that i can tell you that the hole in the front is for coolant return, the one in the back is for coolant feed, unless i have those backwards someone chime in and tell me if i'm wrong....The one on top is oil feed, and the one on the bottom is oil return..You might need a different oil pan to accept the oil drain tube..Idk if i would suggest trying to make your own hole, but If you have to get a new pan in the first place I might give it a shot..Just to see if you can do it..

Step 4 in that link is for oil lines..Step 4 continued is for oil return..
 
So it DOES have to have both OIL and WATER?
Definitely not, as long as you allow proper cooldown at the end of a hard run. The water lines are only in place to act as a heat sink in the event of a hot shutdown.

It's a TD05 center housing, so 42-48psi of oil pressure MAX....and make sure your drain is adequate and doesn't kink or dip below the inlet of the oil pan in any way.
 
Definitely not, as long as you allow proper cooldown at the end of a hard run. The water lines are only in place to act as a heat sink in the event of a hot shutdown.

It's a TD05 center housing, so 42-48psi of oil pressure MAX....and make sure your drain is adequate and doesn't kink or dip below the inlet of the oil pan in any way.

OK then, this sounds like a easier solution and if i want to add water later just to be safe i found this picture!

This helps me with the water lines.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
The hole that is not threaded with the 2 bolts holes on each side is your oil return, directly on top of that is your oil feed, on the sides of that is the coolant in and out. Doesn't matter on the coolant what is the feed and what is the return. I ran my s20g water cooled and I would highly recommend you get an aftermarket radiator to handle the extra strain that puts on the cooling system. I think that water cooling turbos is a great idea....
Here are teh only pics I have of mine, I just took the water "Y" pipe and had some AN fittings brazed onto it, voila no problems, just connect the dots.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
So if i order cooling lines, i should order them for a TD05 style turbo and they will be the same?
 
Should be a 14mm x 2.0 thread, but again using the coolant lines would be a waste unless you're planning on beating the car and shutting it off hot on a regular basis. Most of the time you have to drive 1/2 mile or more at under 35mph with no load to reach your driveway anyhow, which allows plenty of time for the turbo to cool down. Rarely do you turn into your driveway off of a freeway..

You don't need a bigger rad if you are running coolant, you definitely don't need to run coolant for the turbo to operate / survive. Proper oil pressure and drainage, however, is a completely different story.
 
Should be a 14mm x 2.0 thread, but again using the coolant lines would be a waste unless you're planning on beating the car and shutting it off hot on a regular basis. Most of the time you have to drive 1/2 mile or more at under 35mph with no load to reach your driveway anyhow, which allows plenty of time for the turbo to cool down. Rarely do you turn into your driveway off of a freeway..

You don't need a bigger rad if you are running coolant, you definitely don't need to run coolant for the turbo to operate / survive. Proper oil pressure and drainage, however, is a completely different story.

If he doesn't have water/coolant run through the turbo it wouldn't hurt it if he follows proper procedure but we all get in those situations where you can't wait on the car to idle for a bit and cool down. Your right he doesn't NEED them but it wouldn't hurt either. To each his own I guess. As far as if he does hook them up and he has a FMIC he will need to upgrade the cooling system. I had the s20g run on oil only for a while and a FMIC no issues what so ever, water cooled the turbo and after that it would run hot when idling for an extended time or in stop and go traffic. Only thing I changed was water cooling the turbo. I put a Fluidyne in it and it solved the issue. Again, maybe I had a bad radiator and it was a coincident, maybe it wasn't. But again to each his own.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top