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420A Turbo Conversion Turbo kits, swaps, etc - specific to 2G N/T DSMs.

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Old 03-17-2007, 12:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Does anyone have any problems with leaks from the oil feed line fittings? Just curious to see how prevalent the problem is. I'm using brass fittings with a 4-AN SS feed line. All fittings are absolutely as tight as possible, and everything was coated in Teflon paste...


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Old 03-17-2007, 01:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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By the way, since we're on the subject of turbo feed lines, does anyone have any problems with leaks?
None hear from what I can tell. ~2 years of operation


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Old 03-17-2007, 02:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I was able to remove the sender from up top... the tee and other hardware went in from the bottom, then the actual line went in from up top again.

That was all when the turbo kit first went in some time ago. The whole assembly has since been replaced when the new block went in. Everything was so tight, all the threads were completely concealed by their respective fittings... with plenty of Teflon paste too. Now oil is very slightly leaking from some of the joints. Not much, just a drop or two every few months or so.

I was just wondering if anyone else had this problem.


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Old 03-17-2007, 02:45 PM   #4 (permalink)
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By the way, since we're on the subject of turbo feed lines, does anyone have any problems with leaks?

I have to a very mild extent. I was under there the other week changing my oil and noticed the fittings have some oil on the underside of them. I think there is a minor leak. Maybe a tablespoon every month, like you said. I think sometimes, when I'm driving and it leaks, it drips onto my downpipe. Either that, of the forward motion of my car acts as an inertia for the oil once it falls, ending up on my downpipe. The droplet falls, and ends up on my downpipe somehow. That's the ONLY way I can explain random scents of oil in my car every other week. Plus, it only happens when I'm driving.

Nothing major by any means. Very, very little leak. I think I will just spray it with some carb cleaner and teflon paste over it. Hell, maybe even JB weld over it...
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Old 03-17-2007, 03:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The carb cleaner will clean it, but I don't think there's anything you can do to seal it.

Maybe real aluminum fittings (like Earl's) will work better.


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Old 03-17-2007, 03:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I am using brass fittings on mine and I don't think I'm leaking anything. Don't really see any oil spots on the driveway anymore. And since I switched to stainless return line with AN fittings, I don't have any more leaks coming from my fitting on my oil pan


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Old 03-17-2007, 04:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yeah, we run the same setup then. Brass fittings in the back, SS feed line, SS return line, and a welded oil pan.

Stick your hand in the back of the block and feel the fitting for any oil. The amount of oil that leaks is really too small to make spots on the driveway.

I'm just curious to see how many people have this problem, and what we may do to fix it. It's not a huge oil leak, so many of you probably don't even realize the problem is there...


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Old 03-17-2007, 05:56 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'm sorry let me re-iterate my feed/return line set-up.

All brass fittings.
-4AN SS feed line
-10AN SS (Earl's plumbing) return line

Welded flange to the oil pan.





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Old 03-17-2007, 06:02 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yeah, I know what you meant. I'm just wondering if those Earl's or XRP anodized aluminum fittings will work better. I use them on the turbo side of the feed line, and all throughout the return line. I haven't had any problems with them so far.

I'm wondering if the leaks are occurring because the slight differences between the -AN and flare standards. I remember someone in the past brought up that flare fittings have a 45* seat angle, while -AN fittings have a 37* seat. I didn't think it would make much of a difference, but now I'm reconsidering...

By the way, have you re-painted your oil pan? It'd be a shame if it started rusting through... And what kind of fittings did you use on the return? They don't look like regular tube-AN fittings. Are those push-on's or something?


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Old 03-17-2007, 06:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yeah, I know what you meant. I'm just wondering if those Earl's or XRP anodized aluminum fittings will work better. I use them on the turbo side of the feed line, and all throughout the return line. I haven't had any problems with them so far.

I'm wondering if the leaks are occurring because the slight differences between the -AN and flare standards. I remember someone in the past brought up that flare fittings have a 45* seat angle, while -AN fittings have a 37* seat. I didn't think it would make much of a difference, but now I'm reconsidering...

By the way, have you re-painted your oil pan? It'd be a shame if it started rusting through... And what kind of fittings did you use on the return? They don't look like regular tube-AN fittings. Are those push-on's or something?
My oil leak is coming from the assembly behind the block. Or, drip, not even a leak really. EVerything up on the turbo and oil pan are BONE DRY. No leaks at all.
The lines are all Hi-Temperature treated, or produced. They WILL NOT cut with conventional snips. I needed to use my dremel to cut it. I believe the return line is Earl's also. They are not the cheap lines.

The fittings are all Earl's also. The 90 degree bend into the Oil pan was a fitting I had to push on. It was a HUGE PITA to do. You'd think they just don't fit, when all it takes is a little muscling..


No I didn't paint my oil pan. I think the guy who had this car before my buddy must have. I thought about it too, but didn't really care. Still works. It shouldn't rust, I don't see why it would. If it does, I have an extra one sitting in my 'extras' crate...
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Old 03-17-2007, 06:39 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I was concerned about mine rusting... I just got it welded recently (had a bulkhead fitting on before), and some of the places where the paint was scratched off were already rusting, so I cleaned the whole thing up and hit it with engine enamel.

Anyway, that's what I was saying too... all of my Earl's fittings (on the return line, and by the turbo) are all completely dry.

It's just the brass fittings going into the block.


By the way, I think all SS lines need to be cut with a Dremel, or similar. You usually need a really clean cut to get anything to work.

I'm kind of surprised you found push-on fittings for SS lines. I didn't think they made those. Push-on fittings are usually used with specially made push-on hose.


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Old 03-17-2007, 07:02 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Push-on fittings are usually used with specially made push-on hose.
Not in my book!
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Old 03-18-2007, 02:07 AM   #13 (permalink)
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i use grey silicone on the back of the block fittings and dont leak at all, my oil pan is welded with no leaks from there as well. use grey silicone or hondabond.
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Old 03-18-2007, 02:10 AM   #14 (permalink)
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With brass fittings, I assume?


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Old 03-18-2007, 02:32 AM   #15 (permalink)
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the fitting that goes directly into the back of my block is aluminum and the rest is brass or SS i dont remember, sorry!!!
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Old 03-18-2007, 04:34 PM   #16 (permalink)
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i use grey silicone on the back of the block fittings and dont leak at all, my oil pan is welded with no leaks from there as well. use grey silicone or hondabond.
Hmm... I was thinking about this, and isn't it just like using RTV as a pipe sealer/joint compound? There's something that doesn't seem right about that... but if it works, it works! Thanks for clueing me in.

I think my next step will be to use all aluminum, -AN fittings. I'm fairly confident the descrepencies between the -AN and SAE flare standards are one cause of the minute leakage. Furthermore, I'm thinking that perhaps some property of the brass is preventing a nice tight seal. I've never had problems with aluminum fittings though...


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