Quick Question about Rebuild kit.

[Morel]

Anyone seen/used this?

http://modernperformance.com/dcx/engine_rebuildkits_eclipse.shtml (the bottom end kit)


And if so, would that be a pretty good way to get my 420n/a ready for some serious boosting? (lookin to get 250ish hp) When all said and done.

And im kinda unsure about that whole .020 over bore stuff. I've search and searched, but the best i've been able to figure out is if my motor has alot of miles on it (which it does 140k but has rock stable compression and runs fine) that i'd be better off getting the over bored to compensate for the wear on the cylinder heads?

Man, I need a DSM shop/guru on speed dial. Getting into unknown territory here.

 

[BigRand]

Looks good to me, but before you order anyparts, you need to have a machine shop take your engine apart, and check the bore sizes and look for cracks etc before they (or you) order a damn thing. I'm doing the same thing right now, I fryed the rings in cylinders 1 & 4, so my compression went from 200-190-200-195, to 70-170-170-70. Sucks!

 

[dr1665]

before you order anyparts, you need to have a machine shop take your engine apart, and check the bore sizes and look for cracks etc before they (or you) order a damn thing.

Well, that may very well be a great idea, but I've never done that and don't think that I ever would. Just anticipate having to build for those issues and it shouldn't be a problem. DEFINITELY have the cylinders bored the twenty over. It ensures that the cylinder walls are true. Think of it this way, the cylinders will be machined for the new pistons and rings to be perfectly spec'd out. Isn't this what you want? Buy two sets of rod and main bearings if you want to cover your bases. If your crank is good to go, they can install the stock size bearings and you can sell the unused oversized to someone else on the board for a small loss (there's always someone with a 2GNT who spun one and is looking to get new bearings - chalk your loss up to cost of the rebuild). If the crank needs ground, then you've already got the bearings in hand and there is no down time.

Even so, I wouldn't worry too much. I had oversizeds for my last rebuild and the shop called me to tell me they weren't needed. I went to Napa and scored another set of stockers. They had them in the shop within 2 hours.

Finally, if your block is cracked, well you've got bigger problems, but I would suspect you don't need to worry about that issue too much if rebuilding a healthy engine. The machine shop will tell you if that becomes an issue.

Oh yeah, and if you rebuild the bottom end with forged pistons and rods, you could easily boost up to something like 400hp before you'd need to be concerned. It's all in the tuning.

 

[Morel]

Take the block out?

Err..

Well crap that's not something I would REALLY wanna do.. Since this is my daily driver. And I don't have another mode of transportation.

And of course cost issues are always a factor. Since I live in the middle of friggin nowhere, finding a machine shop that i'd trust is also something of a problem. And of course turn around time is a factor to. I don't wanna have my main car down for 2 weeks. a few days is managable...



bleh ..

 

[BigRand]

Take the block out?

Err..

Well crap that's not something I would REALLY wanna do.. Since this is my daily driver. And I don't have another mode of transportation.

And of course cost issues are always a factor. Since I live in the middle of friggin nowhere, finding a machine shop that i'd trust is also something of a problem. And of course turn around time is a factor to. I don't wanna have my main car down for 2 weeks. a few days is managable...



bleh ..

Well, check ebay and see if you can find yourself another motor to send off and be built while driving your current one around. That was my plan, unitl I fryed my piston rings in 1&4, now I sent the motor off but my car is still stuck in the garage.

 

[Morel]

Couldn't I just get a new/used block and have that machined?

 

[BigRand]

That would work too.