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Two questions neon trans and 2nd gear syncro

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Eclipseturbo4

15+ Year Contributor
73
0
Jan 12, 2007
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Hi I was told by a buddy of mine that the neons sport manual trans is an upgrade over our manual trans cause of the shorter gears thus causing better acceleratin is this correct?

My second question is the 2nd gear syncro hard to change out in the stock manual transmissions? What tools would you need?

Sent from my SPH-M910 using Tapatalk
 
Hi I was told by a buddy of mine that the neons sport manual trans is an upgrade over our manual trans cause of the shorter gears thus causing better acceleratin is this correct?

My second question is the 2nd gear syncro hard to change out in the stock manual transmissions? What tools would you need?

Sent from my SPH-M910 using Tapatalk
Your buddy's a little confused. The tranny he is talking about IS the tranny that we have in our cars. We have the shorter gears. Here, you can read through this and see what trannies have better gearing for whatever you are going to do.

http://www.neons.org/forumdodge/trans.htm

Use of the 3.55 tranny would be best with a turbo set-up where there is more power. While the 3.94 is better with our cars to make it SEEM like we have more power, LOL.

As for the ease of 2nd gear synchro and tools needed, it all depends on your level of ability and access to a press and some gear pulling 'bits" to put in the press.
 
I'm currently in the process of rebuilding my first F5MC1 transmission. I had to order a special pallet tool - Bench fixture 6785, and Bearing remover 6768.(Included pictures in the pdf)
It makes life 10x easier if you have a press. Without these tools, you probably will have a much tougher time than I did. I use this PDF that I found,

http://www.ertyu.org/steven_nikkel/neonfsm/2000/epl_21.pdf

Hope this helps.
 
My findings

I have seen two srt swaps that used 420a transmissions. So couldnt u use the srt trans with the 420a? It has a close ratio 5 speed? And if its a 04 and newer will have a lsd in already. Im still learning about this fwd stuff. And as far as my axels ive manage to swap axel cvjoints to get it to work with eclipse so as to keep the dsm wheel bolt pattern.
 
The 2nd gear synchro replacement isn't too hard if you have the right tools to do the job, have the factory service manual, and access to a 12-ton or larger press, the press fixture and tool Travis mentioned above, along with press tool assortment, splitters, snapring pliers, etc.

The 1st and 2nd synchro is not available through Mopar or Mitsubishi, but I can purchase them from Transtar or a few other vendors.

If anyone has found a place to purchase the 1st/2nd hub and slider assembly, 1st gear, 2nd gear or their associated needle bearings, please post up a link!
 
Tim,
I'm thinking the only people who will have access to limited parts are people in the 4x4 community. They seem to really like the New Venture transmissions because of their design, strength and overall quality. I read somewhere that the NV-4500 series has a speed actuated synchro in 1st/2nd that doesn't allow for under rev shifts. Kind of a weird thing, but I totally get it.
Products - Rockland Standard Gear, Inc.

Try calling these guys up, see if they have any info. It seems they might have a handle on some of the particular parts.
 
I replaced mine a few years ago. The syncro cost me $30, and no trans shop in town could press it apart. One even tried heating it. I ended up paying $70 for a manual transmission shop to install it. Sadly I bought it from them and wasted the weekend trying to find someone else to do it.
 
Tim,
I'm thinking the only people who will have access to limited parts are people in the 4x4 community. They seem to really like the New Venture transmissions because of their design, strength and overall quality. I read somewhere that the NV-4500 series has a speed actuated synchro in 1st/2nd that doesn't allow for under rev shifts. Kind of a weird thing, but I totally get it.
Products - Rockland Standard Gear, Inc.

Try calling these guys up, see if they have any info. It seems they might have a handle on some of the particular parts.

The synchros are not the issue; I just simply purchase all brass ones. The problem is the fact that you cannot get the output shaft parts seperate from the entire output shaft cluster assembly that includes: 1st gear, 1st/2nd hub and slider assembly, 1st and 2nd double synchros, 1st and 2nd needle bearings, 2nd gear, 3rd/4th cluster assembly and output shaft itself. The 3rd/4th/5th/rev parts are all available seperately from Mitsubishi and Mopar. I will contact Rockland and see if they can help though.

The key thing to remember when changing to full-brass synchros is that you will no longer use Mopar ATF+4 as your recommended gear oil, instead, you will use a GLI-4 gear oil like Coastal 80w90 gear oil.

I am mainly trying to find a place where I can get the 1st gear, 2nd gear, needle bearings and 1st/2nd hub and slider assembly seperate from purchasing the entire cluster, as I upgrade to the different hub and slider detent keys and to brass synchros when doing the transmission rebuilds.

You need to use either a good press with a special fixture, or heat the gears to ~200* and press apart with either an OTC1126 or a special fixture. I use the output shaft cluster press fixture for doing T850 SRT4 transmissions with a bit of heating up and it pops apart no problem. The initial gearset construction was done with heated up gears to allow for thermal expansion on a cold output shaft that was thermally shrinked. This way it went together easily at the factory and was difficult to seperate, hence being a "non-servicable" item from Mopar. They aren't hard to do with the right tools.

The 3.55 ratio neon trans has a taller final drive ratio which will be better for gas economy or someone that has more power to better utilize taller gear ratios.

Overall, the 2GNT T350 trans is pretty decent once you upgrade the front diff to a minimum of diff pin blockers with a Phantom Grip, or a modified OBX LSD with hardened Bellville washers and fasteners, or a hard-to-find Quaife LSD which are the best for the application. There are a few updates and mods that can be done to these transmissions to make them shift tighter with more positive engagement feel, reduce popout potential, and increase durability through surface treatments, along with making modified rails with positive stops in them or running a modified Maddog shifter.
 
I keep finding information saying that New Venture Gear is based out of Troy, MI. I call the number and it's called Magna Powertrain now.

Welcome to Powertrain Systems | Magna International Inc.

Not sure if they would deal with orders like this, I'm assuming this place only deals with very large suppliers of parts. But it's worth a shot.

What should I ask them? If they can hook me up with 2 freshly cut output shaft clusters for my 98 DSM? ROFL
 
Overall, the 2GNT T350 trans is pretty decent once you upgrade the front diff to a minimum of diff pin blockers with NOTPhantom Grip, but a modified OBX LSD with hardened Bellville washers and fasteners, or a hard-to-find Quaife LSD which are the best for the application. There are a few updates and mods that can be done to these transmissions to make them shift tighter with more positive engagement feel, reduce popout potential, and increase durability through surface treatments, along with making modified rails with positive stops in them or running a modified Maddog shifter.

Thought I would fix this for you. Pass on the PG. But for those that shift hard with these trannies, positive stops are a must. Full agreeance with the rest.

Let me help you out with parts (maybe you can help me ;)). This gentleman here;

www.neons.org • View topic - Little Dragon Racing Transmissions. Closed.

His name is Dave and he's a great, easy going guy. He's sourced out various parts from various different locations. Unfortunately, he can no longer build trannies because of idiot small business bullcrap (leaving open a possible base clientelle for you). So I'm positive he should be able to help you out with what ever parts you need (of course you do know you could just buy the whole cluster for a measly $1200+ from the dealer, right?).

He's been my parts source for the little that I do. Feel free to reference me.

Now, about you helping me :p............

MB
 
I agree with the Phantom Grip, its just going to result in shattering the spider gears on hard launches and is of little help, but if you can control wheel hop and wheel spin, it is more helpful than an open differential. Traction bars would be ideal along with better lower control arm bushings and a healthy suspension.

As for the gear cluster, I think my price is a few hundred cheaper, but still astronomical in its own sense, just like every other part from New Venture gear. Thank Mopar for that one.
 
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