New Clutch.

[xXaTaXx]

Albeit, I don't know much about what I'm getting myself into but here goes.
I just received my spec stage 3+ clutch from maperformance. I thought it was supposed to be non-modular (w/ flywheel + TO bearing) but it came together, assembled (not the TOB of course). I took numerous pictures which I will post later when I have time to upload them.

I do have a couple questions for the guru's around, (pics will probably help my explanations)
a) Am I supposed to remove the plastic 'cap' thing on the TOB? It has a squared head, and becomes circular, then goes part way though the TOB.
b) Because It came assembled, does that mean it's modular? So (without the install details) I just remove the old one, slip the new one in?
c) I have a Haynes manual, and someone who knows how to do this helping me, but are there any tips/trick's that anyone would like to offer?

Thanks so much in advance.
Chris.

[bullettdsm]

No no, don't remove the plastic thing, lol! It's part of the TOB. It also has two small clips on it that snap it onto the clutch fork. Be careful when you put it on. They are kinda fragile. You have a modular clutch in your hands. It bolts onto a "flexplate" (with 4 bolts)that is attached to you crank shaft. When you pull your tranny out, you will have to undo the old modular before you pull your tranny off. You will get to these bolts from the access hole under the tranny (your Haynes should show you that area).

Here is a write up I did on the differences between the mod and non mod clutches. It may help you.

http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=Non%...dular%20Clutch

MB

[xXaTaXx]

Originally Posted by bullettdsm

No no, don't remove the plastic thing, lol! It's part of the TOB. It also has two small clips on it that snap it onto the clutch fork. Be careful when you put it on. They are kinda fragile. You have a modular clutch in your hands. It bolts onto a "flexplate" (with 4 bolts)that is attached to you crank shaft. When you pull your tranny out, you will have to undo the old modular before you pull your tranny off. You will get to these bolts from the access hole under the tranny (your Haynes should show you that area).

Here is a write up I did on the differences between the mod and non mod clutches. It may help you.

http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=Non%...dular%20Clutch

MB

arrgh!! I didn't try and remove that plastic piece from the tob I just left it alone, but after reading your post and looking at it closely, one of the 'ears' on those little clips is missing (I'll snap a pic). Does that matter much?--The clips are intact but the little 'ear', it is about 1/4mm at 90* angle on the top of the clip, is not there on one side. I'm sure that It was like that from the package, I've only held it by its sides ;\

What is the probability of those bolts on the flexplate being frozen/stuck? Can I use PB Blaster in there as well?
Would it be a good idea to replace the flexplate while i'm there or is that more complicated than I'm imagining?

Again, thank you for answering my questions! Tonight I just noticed two signs of imminent repair ;X 1) Clutch is slipping a bit. 2) Clutch fluid all over my pedal and firewall. (satan, I'm calling you, pick up the phone.)

Chris

[bullettdsm]

Originally Posted by xXaTaXx

What is the probability of those bolts on the flexplate being frozen/stuck? Can I use PB Blaster in there as well?
Would it be a good idea to replace the flexplate while i'm there or is that more complicated than I'm imagining?

Again, thank you for answering my questions! Tonight I just noticed two signs of imminent repair ;X 1) Clutch is slipping a bit. 2) Clutch fluid all over my pedal and firewall. (satan, I'm calling you, pick up the phone.)

Chris

Gotta get another TOB, IMO. I have heard of others using it with a busted tab, but I wouldn't.

I have yet to have a clutch bolt freeze up on me. They have been generally easy to get off.

Replacing a flexplate is not necessary, unless something really goofy happened to it (like the bolts holes got oblonged because of loose bolts or something).

The fluid is your master cylinder leaking. You will need to replace that.

MB

[DSMcrazy3]

I broke one of the tabs of my TOB originally. I called Andy at SBC and he instructed me not to use it. Be careful with the tabs, they're very fragile.

[xXaTaXx]

Originally Posted by DSMcrazy3

I broke one of the tabs of my TOB originally. I called Andy at SBC and he instructed me not to use it. Be careful with the tabs, they're very fragile.

mmmm. Well, I guess I'll have to wait to install the clutch though--$500 in 06' owed taxes I need to pay ;x.
It's nice to look at though =D



What worries me is that the holes (for bolting to flexplate?) arn't lined up correctly =X.

[DSMcrazy3]

They are. Only 3 of them are on the same axis, meaning the clutch will only bolt up one way. Basically all you can do now is try it one way, if one won't line up unbolt them all, spin the clutch one bolt and try again, and so on. Or you can remove the flexplate from the motor and bolt it up correctly then mark on the clutch and flexplate to know where to line it up when installing on the car.

[xXaTaXx]

Originally Posted by DSMcrazy3

They are. Only 3 of them are on the same axis, meaning the clutch will only bolt up one way. Basically all you can do now is try it one way, if one won't line up unbolt them all, spin the clutch one bolt and try again, and so on. Or you can remove the flexplate from the motor and bolt it up correctly then mark on the clutch and flexplate to know where to line it up when installing on the car.

You're referring to spinning the whole assembly right? If so, I can understand that, but how does that fix the missaligned bolt holes? Your wording is just a little confusing at 7am ;P

Thanks!
Chris.

[DSMcrazy3]

There are 4 different positions the clutch can be installed in(since there are four bolt holes). The bolt holes will only line up correctly one way. So, if the bolt holes don't line up the way you have it originally, take the bottom bolt out, spin the clutch to the next bolt hole, and try over. Repeat until all bolts go in properly. This method sucks because it's not the easiest to turn that flexplate to expose each new hole.

[VelocitàPaola]

Josh, I could be wrong, but look at the second picture he posted, where the clutch housing is riveted to the flywheel. I think he's talking about how the holes on the flywheel aren't aligned with the holes on the clutch housing.

Those bolts aren't very long, so I would test fit everything first and make sure they don't go all the way through the flywheel and hit the housing first. They might be short enough where this situation isn't a problem. If anything, I don't see why you couldn't drill out the holes on the housing, you'd just have to be careful and not damage the threads on the flywheel.

[bullettdsm]

Originally Posted by VelocitàPaola

Josh, I could be wrong, but look at the second picture he posted, where the clutch housing is riveted to the flywheel. I think he's talking about how the holes on the flywheel aren't aligned with the holes on the clutch housing.

I see what you're talking about, Paul. That's normal. Just looked at my spec 4 modular.
The side for bolting onto is on the other side of his PP like in the attached pic.

Thought that might help.
MB

[DSM-ZERO]

I hate the way the modular clutchs bolt to the flex plate!!!

Has anyone ever snapped the bolts that go through the flex plate and bolt to the flywheel.....I did and it was not pretty......the whole assembly was spinning around in my bellhousing and cut the bellhaosing in to have's......it sucked

so what i did was tap 4 additional bolt holes in the fly wheel soooooo 8 bolts go through the flex plate and bolt to the flywheel ,......for more clamping power.

any one ever have that problem with the bolts braking?????

[VelocitàPaola]

I've heard of that happening... although it's never happened to me... Most of the time I thought it was due to improper torquing (i.e. the bolts backed out).