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| 420A Bolt-on Tech: Intake, exhaust, ignition, fuel system, cooling, etc - specific to 2G N/T DSMs. New Members must limit their 420A tech posts to this forum. |
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05-27-2012, 09:11 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: warwick, New York
Registered: Dec 2010
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What Synthetic Oil??
I am just finishing my break in with my built 420a and want to switch it to synthetic because of the heat and the turbo. I have no knowledge of what is good or not so i apologize in advance  . Should i run royal purple?? I have heard bad things about mobil 1 like it will mess up your engine if you change from that specific brand. Also 5w-30 or ???? Thanks for the help
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05-27-2012, 10:21 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Supporting Member

From: bullhead city, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2011
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I like to run mobile one. royal purple is to pricey for me but thats up to you. I have ran mobile one for a few months and have not had any problems with it.
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05-27-2012, 10:34 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Hertfordshire, Europe
Registered: Nov 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayB12
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Should that not be the other way around due to how thin 5w30 is so 5w30 in the winter for better cold starts and then 10w30? This is how i use to do it till i ran 10w30 all year now. As 5w is thinner its better for starting in cold weather as to what my manual says, and many others if im not mistaken
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayson427
I like to run mobile one. royal purple is to pricey for me but thats up to you. I have ran mobile one for a few months and have not had any problems with it.
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Just to let you know in advance i use to use mobil 1 but i got alot of build up inside the engine so i switched to royal ourple and its alot better now, plus mobile 1 add a grit type substance so it wears rings faster this was according to an online survey on all oils and i believe super street also did this,
My personal prefferance is royal purple, 10w30 for a stock motor or 10w40-50 for an upgraded motor
____________________________
BOBBY
DSM is to move to Tampa Bay
Last edited by ec17pse; 05-27-2012 at 10:39 AM.
Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period
Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
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05-27-2012, 10:54 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Wasilla, Alaska
Registered: Jul 2011
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I use Mobil 1 5w-30 for winter and Mobil 1 10w-30 for summer. Haven't had any issues with it. And not just on my GSX either, I own a FOrd f-150, Dodge Neon, use to own a Chevy S-15, Pontiac Grand AM. But anyways I have just used Mobil 1. I would like to use Royal Purple but it is a little expensive. Maybe i'll try it next oil change.
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05-27-2012, 11:20 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Rochester, New York
Registered: Nov 2011
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Not trying to hijack or anything, But does a 4G63 with an hx35 require different weight oil? if so what would be the oil to use for an oil change.. It has royal purple and lucas stablizer in it now. but RP is 10.50 a quart where i live
____________________________
Shawn, 7 Blade Holset Hx35 turbo
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05-27-2012, 08:46 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Supporting Member

From: Philipsburg, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ec17pse
Should that not be the other way around due to how thin 5w30 is so 5w30 in the winter for better cold starts and then 10w30?
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Yes. That's what I ment. I don't know how I confused that, I just bought 10w like yesterday.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RocCitySlayer
Not trying to hijack or anything, But does a 4G63 with an hx35 require different weight oil? if so what would be the oil to use for an oil change.. It has royal purple and lucas stablizer in it now. but RP is 10.50 a quart where i live
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I would stick with what you have. It will be sufficient. There is no need to change oil weight because of a turbo upgrade. I would worry about the motor>turbo.
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05-28-2012, 12:10 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Fl, Florida
Registered: Mar 2011
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My boy runs that VR1 20w-50 in his turbo'd 420a and says its great with a noticeable difference. Ill probably be trying it out myself.
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07-12-2012, 12:28 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Phoenix, Arizona
Registered: Jan 2010
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I've really been a fan of Royal Purple but after switching once to Castrol Edge I noticed a little more performance in the top end believe it or not.
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07-12-2012, 01:03 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Registered: Apr 2012
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If you care about your car so much that you need to ask what oil to use, I suggest just picking a top-tier brand like redline, royal purple, or amsoil and be done with it. You can't go wrong. Just make sure you continue using the same oil to ensure the detergents don't counteract with each other. Have fun!
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07-12-2012, 08:44 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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Supporting Freelancer
Syn Customs

Car: avenger 2.4 swap:boosted
From: des moines, Iowa
Registered: Jan 2004
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Ask your machine shop, or who ever built it.. ask them their suggestion based on Bearing clearances. Tpicially they will suggest something with high Zinc as well. If you have aftermarket bearings (###### clevites), id ask them what to use, as the clearance really defines what you should use. Typically the oils they recomend have a higher "breakdown" temp as well..
____________________________
Custom fiberglass and carbon fiber fabrication - click on my Supporting Freelancer icon to see what I offer!
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07-12-2012, 09:11 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman

From: Newmarket, ON, Canada
Registered: Nov 2004
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Amsoil here. Use to use Mobil1, but made the switch last year after I built my bottom end. Amsoil is supposed to be a superior oil & I actually have a local source thats cheeper then I use to pay for Mobil1.
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07-13-2012, 01:43 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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DSM N/T Moderator

From: Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Registered: Jun 2005
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Personally, I use Mobil Clean 5000 (non-synthetic), but debating which oil to use on a car forum is like debating religion. I recommend reading the links in the second post and drawing your own conclusions.
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-Paul
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07-25-2012, 04:52 AM
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#18 (permalink)
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Proven Member

Car: Lexus IS 300
From: Southern, New Hampshire
Registered: Jan 2011
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I've been using Mobil 1 Extended Performance and Asmoil oil filters (used to use WIX but decided to change recently). The combination of Mobil 1 Extended Performance and Asmoil filters will allow you to go up to 15,000 miles between oil changes. The most I'd go is 8,000, depending on what the oil looks like up until then. I usually change my oil every 5000-7000 miles and never had a problem. Had the engine apart and there was no sludge buildup and all components were wearing properly.
Cheers.
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07-25-2012, 05:31 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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Supporting VIP

From: Doesn't matter, Texas
Registered: Aug 2008
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I used to run Mobile 1. Found on Forced Performances website a list of oils that they would recommend (due to research they have done) about which oils they would run while using their turbos. I now use Amsoil 15w50 Dominator racing oil.
Jayson
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07-25-2012, 05:51 AM
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#21 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: st jacob, Illinois
Registered: Apr 2012
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Right now im running rotella t 15-40. Hell if i know but i think its ok... I like the high zinc oils and since i dont road race, i dont need the high heat characteristics of a synthetic. Dont get me wrong, theyre great and all, but ive been into sportbikes for years and read many reviews of dino vs synthetics and heat breakdown is the main bonus with synth. Ive ran quaker state or pennzoil in all my bikes over the years and never had a problem FWIW.
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07-25-2012, 05:56 AM
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#22 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Yonkers, New York
Registered: Sep 2007
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A highly recommend oil on this forum and from most DSM shop is Brad Penn cause of its high zinc context, but it is not recommend for cars running cats. But like the FP article says any oil with a high zinc context like Royal Purple, Valvoline Vr1, Amsoil, will work just fine. After extensive reading on this matter i have concluded, its mostly preference. Hope this helps.
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07-25-2012, 06:04 AM
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#23 (permalink)
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Supporting Freelancer
DSM Revival

From: Roebuck, South Carolina
Registered: Jun 2011
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I used to run mobile 1 5w-20 never had any problems but from break in to just over 10k I probably did 4-5 oil changes. But I switched to ams oil 0w-20 now. Use their filter as well. They guarantee engine protection for 15'000 miles on my car(usually 25'000 but 15 due to the small filter.).
If my engine is ever damaged due to their oil failure they cover it. The guarantee is 15'000 miles or a, year. So a change may cost 75$ but it goes,alot further and is covered. Will be running their oil in my tranny as,well whe my car goes back together.
____________________________
Turbo rebuilder/engine BUilder-rebuilder/5spd rebuilder-builder
90 day warranties.
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07-29-2012, 08:00 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Beaverton, Oregon
Registered: Dec 2005
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I like amsoil more and more now. I used to be a M1 guy, no complaints. Then went to syntec edge with titanium in my work truck. Then went to amsoil. I was paying like 8-10 a quart for the higher end shelf brand synthetics. I got a corporate account for my business with amsoil now. Cost nothing for the membership (i think its $20 a year for a personal one). Now I get their signature series for like 7.80 a quart, unbelievable. And I only have to change my oil once a year when I buy their filter, and honestly when I do change it it looks better at 20-25k miles than the shelf brands at 5-10k miles when I drain.
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07-29-2012, 08:22 PM
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#27 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: South Lake, Nevada
Registered: May 2006
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i run rotella t6 synthetic 5w-40 and have almost every time. It stays cleaner longer and doesn't burn off as easy. If im being cheap ill run delo 15w-40 non synthetic. Both are great oils for a 4g63 just the Rotella last a little longer but it cost a bit more. I highly recommend using Rotella if you like your 4g63
____________________________
#975 Galant Vr4 AKA Baby EVO
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