Car Dies When Warm

[99BoostedRS]

Hey wassup guys.

Ok so heres the problem when my car is dead cold it will start without a problem and then after about 5 mins give or take 2 mins it just dies out.
Then when i go to start it again right after the engine will try to start but doesnt and sometimes ill hear a pop coming from the exhaust (misfire or backfire?) Then the car won't start again till its totally cold (a few hours later). It has a new starter and a new coolant temp sensor.

Anybody have any ideas on what this can be?

Noone can help me on this?

 

[rstare]

Check that your CLT and IAT are within spec and hooked up correctly. If the PCM is reading the wrong temp from either of these it will enter a different amount of fuel, and change the ignition timing from what is actually needed.

 

[99BoostedRS]

So i got new a iat sensor clt sensor and spark plugs

Yesterday the car would fire up but today it would just crank and not start hoepfully this vid might help on a solution.

YouTube - 96 mitsubishi eclipse starting problems

 

[davidaham]

check the ohms on your coil pack. sometimes when they start going out they will quit working when they get hot. just a guess. if it is your coil pack let me no i have a few laying on a shelf i will send you one free.

 

[99BoostedRS]

check the ohms on your coil pack. sometimes when they start going out they will quit working when they get hot. just a guess. if it is your coil pack let me no i have a few laying on a shelf i will send you one free.

cool thanks alot man ima go pick up a ohm tester tomo and see what happens.

To check the ohms do i just disconnect the spark plug wires and try to crank the engine while i test the coil pack connectors one by one?

 

[davidaham]

NO not in less you wont to get hit by 40,000 volts. if you dont have an ohm meter the best thing to do is get a inline tester and when it quits ruining pull one of the plug wires of the coil pack and plug in the tester. and see if it lights up. alot cheaper this way

 

[dooblea]

Do you have a way to check your fuel pressure? The same thing happened to me when i switched out my pump. The seal at the top of the pump going into the housing was shot!

 

[92tsi5speed]

just curious when it starts does it idle good or like crap

 

[99BoostedRS]

Do you have a way to check your fuel pressure? The same thing happened to me when i switched out my pump. The seal at the top of the pump going into the housing was shot!

no i dont have a fuel pressure tester.

just curious when it starts does it idle good or like crap

when it used to start it idled very smoothly absolutely no problems

 

[VelocitàPaola]

NO not in less you wont to get hit by 40,000 volts. if you dont have an ohm meter the best thing to do is get a inline tester and when it quits ruining pull one of the plug wires of the coil pack and plug in the tester. and see if it lights up. alot cheaper this way

There's really no excuse for not having a digital multimeter (DMM) these days. They're so cheap, and they're an invaluable tool to have while diagnosing electrical problems. You can buy one for under $15 from Harbor Freight or even RadioShack.

Once you get your DMM, simply check the resistance between the left and center pins, and the right and center pins. Report your findings here.

Always remember, the three things you need to have a running engine are fuel, spark and compression. You can infer whether the first and third are there by using a fuel pressure tester and doing a compression test. The second is usually checked by pulling a spark plug and grounding the outer electrode against the cylinder head. Be careful, though... if you don't ground it well you will get zapped.

Once you know which of those elements is missing, you can begin diagnosing the problem better.

 

[99BoostedRS]

Ok so i checked my compression on all 4 cylinders i got about 180 give or take 2-4 psi on all of them.

I also checked the spark plugs all 4 are sparking.
I wasnt able to get a fuel pressure tester because the autozone i go to said they were out of stock on those

But now since i have spark and compression its obvious i dont have fuel pressure.

I also noticed something else, when i went to start the car i went to the exhaust and saw very little smoke coming out of it and it smelled like gas, does this mean gas is going into the cylinders and burning up? How can i found out where this pressure leak is coming from?

Oh yea i forgot to ask you guys something else. I found a fuel pressure tester for domestic vehicles and it said it was compatible with eagle, since eagle is pretty much the same with eclipse's will the adapter fit?

 

[davidaham]

I would think if you are smelling raw fuel. Then it is a prob with your fireing. Thats just me. You cant realy tell anyting buy grounding your pulg to your head. Yeah you might get a spark. BUT that is not saying u are going to get a spark when it is under a LOAD! And also if it fits an eagle it should fit a eclipse.

 

[rstare]

Not very much load at idle, however it is impossible to tell if that spark is actually igniting the fuel. The spark timing could be completely off and causing no combustion to take place.
I still think it has to do with your temperature sensors. Those are usually the main thing that would cause your car to not start when it gets warmed up.
You could also try the fuel filter and fuel pump.

A link to this fuel pressure tester would be nice.

 

[hispeed85]

had the same problem with my 96 n/a after i rebuilt the engine because of burnt pistons. turned out to be my CPS had a crack in it and after it would warm up i would lose spark to 1 and 4. the new sensor that i got from napa has a different plug than stock and came with the new end to swap out. just check the box for it if out do go that way. cost around 110$

just to clarify its the Crank sensor that i was talking about located toward the firewall of the car about mid engine

 

[99BoostedRS]

Ok so heres a quick summary of whats up with my car. (so who ever see's it doesnt have to read the whole forum)

1.my car used to start about 4 days ago and once it would get warm it would shut off. ( i replaced the coolant tempor sensor and intake air temp sensor)

2.Now it doesnt start but it does try to.

3.I did a compression test, spark test and fuel pressure test, compression is good for all 4, i'm gettin spark on all 4 plugs and im gettin 40 psi of fuel pressure (i connected the fuel pressure tester put the key to the on position to prime the pump and i went to check it and it read 40 psi and it slowly was going down. is this normal or do i have a pressure leak?)

 

[Locke]

You're losing fuel pressure. You should be getting about 50psi.

 

[99BoostedRS]

You're losing fuel pressure. You should be getting about 50psi.

how can i find out where this pressure leak is?

 

[Locke]

Eyeball the most obvious and convenient places first, follow the fuel line under your car with the pump primed and look for leaking fuel. Inspect the fuel rail at the injectors and where the feed line enters it, and the connection at the pump under the rear seat. . If you have pliers to pinch the rubber fuel line, pinch it shut after you've primed the system. If you lose pressure at the same rate at the fuel rail after you have pinched the line, then you likely have a leaky injector. If you do not lose fuel pressure, or lose it at a much lower rate, the check-valve in the pump may be stuck or damaged.

 

[99BoostedRS]

Ok so i checked the lines under the car and the fuel filter there was no gas leaking. But once i checked the fuel pump the metal pipe next to the rubber one was leaking, so i unbolted it put thread sealer on it and the screwed back on and the leak stopped. Afterwards when i went to check the fuel pressure again it went to 50 psi quickly went down to about 42 psi then it was going down REALLY REALLY slowly.

 

[rstare]

The question is, did that fix your leak? If the answer is "yes", then, is your car running normally?

 

[99BoostedRS]

The question is, did that fix your leak? If the answer is "yes", then, is your car running normally?

Well it did fix that leak and it still isnt starting. My question is, is that normal for it to go to 52 psi then drop to 42 then very slowly go down?

I was also thinking about picking up a code reader from autozone to help me out now and for the future if the check engine light comes on.

 

[rstare]

Autozone will check your codes for free. It's still a good diagnostic tool to have, though.
I'm not 100% sure if that's normal, to be honest. A slow, normal, even decrease of fuel pressure is common, but a quick drop to 42psi would make it seem to me as if it's still not holding pressure.

 

[shockersTalon]

If you are smelling raw fuel and getting spark try hookin up that scanner. Most of them even the cheap ones will give you a limited datastream crank your car and see what the o2 sensor is reading the number one o2. Granted its only a narrow band but if that thing is reading straight lean your pcm will just pour in fuel after it warms up and switches to closed loop "usually about 3 or 4 min" . The issue with it not starting at all now could be that it was dumpin so much fuel its just loaded up like crazy now, you could try popping the hose off at the throttlebody shoot in a small amount of starting fluid with the pedal to the floor the try and start it. Most newer cars actually go into a "clear flood" when the pedal is held to the floor while cranking. let me know what that does and ill try and help you outr more.

 

[99BoostedRS]

Ok so i got a OBD II scanner and hooked it up.

I didnt get any codes.

The scanner said the o2 sensor is fine.

I looked at some data and it said ign adv (o) 9.0

I'm guessing my ignition timing is off and causing this problem?

Also after i sprayed in some starter fluid i tried starting it and it wouldnt start again and after about 5 secs of cranking i heard a loud pop. I tried spraying it with starter fluid again and same thing happened.

 

[96TurboGS]

What exactly do your spark plugs read? Is there any indication there was fuel being injected into the cylinders? With starter fluid you should be able to get the engine to start for a brief second, if your ignition is working properly. Are you sure your getting spark? I would look into your coil pack, connections, and the ASD relay (there is more that goes into the relay than the click). I know when I had my stock fuel system in place I notice a spike to 50 then it would slowly drop, but only when I primed. Around 9* (cranking) is correct, you should only worry when it starts advancing. If everything checks out verify your crank positioning sensor and wiring is working correctly.