420A Bolt-on TechIntake, exhaust, ignition, fuel system, cooling, etc - specific to 2G N/T DSMs. New Members must limit their 420A tech posts to this forum.
I'm doing the head gasket on a buddy's GS...He just had the timing belt and water pump done (why he didn't do this at the same time is beyond me) so that's not an issue. I'm trying to remove the head and have the front timing belt cover and timing belt off, as well as the valve cover removed.
I've searched relentlessly for an answer to this, but can't find it. I need to get the cams out to access the head bolts. Everyone seems to say you don't need to take the cam gears off to get the head off, but with the rear timing cover on there's no way that's possible. And to get the cam gears off while the head is in the car is a PITA because there's almost no access to the rear cam gear bolt.
What do you guys do in this situation?
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I have removed several heads all with the cams and gears attached. No need to remove them. You just need a quality 10mm star socket an extension and possibly a breaker bar.
Unless you are not working on a 4g63, then I cant help ya.
Last edited by jimmythesaint; 11-02-2009 at 08:36 PM.
Well I'm working on a 420a...I did mine back in winter but I can't remember for the life of me how I did it.
I might have to take a picture, but the cam gear's currently cannot come off with the rear timing cover on I don't believe. But going through my Haynes it doesn't mention that this should be an issue.
I'm doing the head gasket on a buddy's GS...He just had the timing belt and water pump done (why he didn't do this at the same time is beyond me) so that's not an issue. I'm trying to remove the head and have the front timing belt cover and timing belt off, as well as the valve cover removed.
I've searched relentlessly for an answer to this, but can't find it. I need to get the cams out to access the head bolts. Everyone seems to say you don't need to take the cam gears off to get the head off, but with the rear timing cover on there's no way that's possible. And to get the cam gears off while the head is in the car is a PITA because there's almost no access to the rear cam gear bolt.
What do you guys do in this situation?
Remove the rear cover. Or you chould cut out some of the rear timing cover if you want so the cams will come out. Up to you. Personally find a way to remove the rear cover. Remove the motor mount and jack the motor up to get enough clearnce to get to the cam bolts.
I have removed several heads all with the cams and gears attached. No need to remove them. You just need a quality 10mm star socket an extension and possibly a breaker bar.
Unless you are not working on a DSM, then I cant help ya.
Unless you have direct experience with a 420A, please don't post. Misinformation is worse than no information.
I'm doing the head gasket on a buddy's GS...He just had the timing belt and water pump done (why he didn't do this at the same time is beyond me) so that's not an issue. I'm trying to remove the head and have the front timing belt cover and timing belt off, as well as the valve cover removed.
I've searched relentlessly for an answer to this, but can't find it. I need to get the cams out to access the head bolts. Everyone seems to say you don't need to take the cam gears off to get the head off, but with the rear timing cover on there's no way that's possible. And to get the cam gears off while the head is in the car is a PITA because there's almost no access to the rear cam gear bolt.
What do you guys do in this situation?
You do need to remove the cam gears because you need to remove the timing belt cover. You may not need to remove the camshafts, but it's sure easier if you do. If you don't remove them, you'll need an extension and a swivel to loosen all of the head bolts. You cannot remove the head bolts with the camshafts in place. Keep in mind, however, that you will need to replace the head bolts if they're the stock TTY bolts.
I got everything back together, timing looked good and I checked it about 5 times. When I went to start it it fired right up, and ran/revved just fine. Took it for a test spin and it ran great. It sprun a coolant leak at the thermo housing, no big deal.
Butttt, after a while it started idling kind of rough. Not to the point where it would die, but just kind of choppy. I also heard a faint ticking noise at times and stopped it right away. I figured, though, it can't be hitting the valves if it's running perfect, right? Any quick idears?
The port that goes through the block and into the head needs to be extra clean when you put the head back on. Crud can get up in there and plug off passages to lifters giving you a ticking noise.
When the parts of the engine get warmed up, stuff expands. Make sure there isn't a vacuum leak at the intake or some line that is slightly cracked.
I'll check for vacuum leaks, that seems like a likely culprit.
The oil was changed right after the head gasket, never started it without changing. I also had the head resurfaced, cleaned, and pressure checked at a machine shop.
I'll check for vacuum leaks, that seems like a likely culprit.
Likely.
The ticking noise could very well be an exhaust leak. Feel around for puffs of air out of the exhaust mani area (careful not to burn yourself ). Or have some one block off the muffler (with a rag in their hand) and listen for exhaust escaping.
MB
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Mark's other car; 420a Turbo 11.414@119.62
). Or have some one block off the muffler (with a rag in their hand) and listen for exhaust escaping.
