Head Gasket?

[ninjai_ruken]

I was checking my spark plugs today on my GS, and when I pulled the #2 spark plug in the fireing order out it was driping with oil residue. could it just be my head gasket? thats what I was thinking. Its just that one spark plug, so Im hopeing thats all it is. they all still fire in order so who knows. I have had this problem like this before on my GST but it WAS WAY WORSE, and it was my piston rings that were ####ed and I had to rebuild the motor.

 

[Ghost1984]

im thinkin since its just only one piston that it might be a ring, not absoluely sure but if it was a gasket i think they would all propably be like that, but im not absolutely sure so dont quote me, hope everything works out. good luck.

 

[ninjai_ruken]

When I was inside typeing this my bro was out pulling the last plug and he said that one had some on it also. So who know's Guess ill be pulling that motor apart to find out what is wrong. Ill have to drive my GST damn it. im glad it getting warm out. Dont have a heater or Aircondisioner in it no carpet it has a roll cage. just not a great every day driver. :laugh:

 

[Doug99RS]

It's not the head gasket. It's the spark plug tube seal that you replace when you remove the cylinder head COVER gasket. Oil from piston rings would burn off when the chamber ignites. Oil will still be deposited on the spark plugs but it will not be wet, it will be white and dried out like this picture below.

The plug on the left has not been exposed to an unacceptable amount of oil. The plug in the middle was exposed to the oil consumption problem the longest. The plug on the right was exposed to the cylinder with an oil consumption problem for only a few minutes.

What happened was I had a chrysler 3.8L engine. The 3.3L and the 3.8L are identical on the outside. The difference is the diameter of the piston and the stroke. The problem with this engine was that the lower most piston ring was too small (it fit the 3.3L). So it didn't clean the oil off of the cylinder walls. The oil was then deposited in the combustion chamber and on the spark plug. I found the plug t be oil fouled. I then moved it to a different cylinder. The oil then deposited on a different plug and the other plug because to get hot enough to bake the oil.

So if there actual oil on the plug that looks the oil straight off of the dipstick oil out of the oil pan then you've got leaking spark plug tube seals. If the oil simply looks like a wet or crusty spark plug as I've got in the picture below then you've got an oil consumption problem.

I'm betting on the spark plug tube seals.
Doug

 

[TeamWasted420a]

I agree with ^^^. I had the same problem, replaced the Valve Cover Gasket and the Tube seals, fixed the problem completely.

 

[ninjai_ruken]

Thanks for the reply doug, When I read what you wrote I about beat myself stupid. Have you ever known something but did not think of it then when someone pointed it out you and you about kicked yourself? I have :laugh: Thanks

 

[Doug99RS]

It's an every day thing for me it seems. I fix cars all day long, 5 days a week minimum and sometimes even 6-7 days. Simple things are most frequently the solution yet I get way ahead of myself and forget to check them. Don't sweat it.
Doug

 

[ninjai_ruken]

My friend works on cars also, He loves his car so much. That its a shock to me when he says that he does not feel like working on his project car some days. But thats because I forget that people can get burned out doing something they love to do if they do it all day almost everyday.

 

[mitsumaster]

What part is it listed under cause I cant find no spark plug tube seals in the Conicelli catalog, or maybe someone can highlight it for me. I too have the same problem and when i floor it, it sort of hesitates. im thinking oil gets to the actual spark plug gap. I think im also changing 3 and 5 on the pic just in case.

 

[Doug99RS]

You're ordering all the wrong parts. That's the mitsu engine and not the chrysler. I sent you a PM with the spark plug tube seal p/n.
Doug
p.s. that's a 4g64 (sohc 2.4L) to boot. Not even the right displacement

 

[RAVAGER576]

I have just recently noticed a similar problem. But mine have oil on all 4 ... with lesser amounts the farther down the line I go ... Do you think I may have a similar or different issue? One thing I am pretty sure of is the oil is on the well side not the piston side because the plugs do not have too much wear on them, so Im pretty sure they arent fouling TOO awfully bad ... Any ideas? Also I do smoke at idle which Im almost positive is valve seal anyone think I may be off thinking valve seal since there is so much oil apparent in the wells?? Thanks in advance ...

 

[1997RS]

I agree with you Doug, I had the same problem before just like it looking at around 20-30 dollars for the seals and valve cover gasket and about an hour if you do it yourself... Doug I do have a question for you though and forgive me guys but I am in deep ***t here. Doug, My Head Gasket needs replacement, I can do the job myself but have never done a 420a before so my true question is, After changing my gasket, how hard is it to pt back in timing??? it seems to be the only thing holding me up here sorry guys that I jumped with my question...

 

[Doug99RS]

The timing is pretty tricky. It's about as much fun as it is to get that motor mount bracket out of there while the engine is still in the car. It just takes time and patience and you will get it right. Just remember a couple of things:

1. Make sure you put the cam gears back on the correct way. They fit the 2.4L as well and if you flip them around you will see the timing marks and engine application that they fit. We're 2.0L, just remember that.

2. When getting the timing belt in there, keep all the slack on the tensioner side and not the water pump side when you go to check the timing marks. Line up the crank shaft just a little before TDC, line up the cams and then put the belt on there. That little bit of before TDC on the crank will allow you to get the belt on all the gears and slightly rotate the crank in to true tdc and remove the slack from the belt (on the water pump side).

3. Make sure you've tightened the crap out of the cam gear bolts. If they are loose, they will shear off the dowel pin and you will bend the crap out of the valves if you let it run. I think proper torque on those bolts is around 75-85 Ft/Lbs.

Just be patient and do it right the first time. Spin the engine over by hand at the crank shaft before you reassemble the timing cover to make sure all the marks line back up.
Doug

 

[ninjai_ruken]

Timing? You are just talking about changing the Valve Cover Gasket and Spark Tube Seals Right? Or are you changing your head gasket as well?

 

[1997RS]

Do I need Timing Light??? I forgot to mention that part, I wont bother this forum no more Thanks Guys and sorry... George

 

[Doug99RS]

You do not need a timing light to set the timing on the 2gnt.
D

 

[dsmrunnah95]

How bad is it to run your plugs like that? I just recently changed my plugs and all four were white like the one in the middle of your picture.

 

[1997RS]

So Doug99rs basically just as long I put the marks in their proper location everything will be fine following the Chiltons manual right??? is there a better manual out there just by any chance???

 

[Doug99RS]

The service manuals are the shiznit. I work out of the 1997 Chrysler Powertrain Manual for passemger cars myself for all my diagnostic stuff and then for torque specs and all I'll go back to the primary service manuals. We've already got a thread showing a bunch of reference materials we (me and other DSMTuners) use and found from various sources. If you wanted to do a search on "Doug99RS", and "DealerConnect" then you'll find it pretty quickly. People in there can tell you where to look for better reference material than that chilton's manual.
Doug