Hard start questions. Also question on ECU

[ShawnsGarage]

Latley I have been having a hard start problem on my 92 N/a. The colder the engine is the harder it is to start. Im almost convinced its the CTS and read somewhere on here that if you unplug the CTS and try to start and it is still hard to start then that is the problem. Is this true? Im strapped for cash so i cant go throwing parts at it.

Also my CEL is not coming on when i turn the key to signal ECU boot. Its has been doing this for a few months now and i have seen the CEL come on once for about 20 miles then went back off. What could cause this? I have my ECU sitting in my lap and there are no leaking caps or burnt spots.

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

Latley I have been having a hard start problem on my 92 N/a. The colder the engine is the harder it is to start. Im almost convinced its the CTS and read somewhere on here that if you unplug the CTS and try to start and it is still hard to start then that is the problem. Is this true? Im strapped for cash so i cant go throwing parts at it.

Also my CEL is not coming on when i turn the key to signal ECU boot. Its has been doing this for a few months now and i have seen the CEL come on once for about 20 miles then went back off. What could cause this? I have my ECU sitting in my lap and there are no leaking caps or burnt spots.

The colder the engine is the harder it is to start. This could very well mean low compression. A compression tester is $20, it takes 10 minutes. If it has low compresison, that basically means a rebuild, regardless of the ECU condition.

About the ECU: put the ecu real close to your nose, and sniff each cap really close. The first time I sniffed mine, I thought it was good. 2nd sniff I could smell it, I think because it was cold at first from being outside. So triple sniff check it.

The CEL should not have been on for 20 miles, so that tells us something ain't right, you should have pulled the codes before unplugging it. But your ECU is still suspect in my eyes if the CEL does not come on briefly when turning the key on.

About $40 for a datalogger, you can pull the ECU codes next time and it tells you what the problem is! See, it gives you a code, you come here tell us the code, and someone here will say what that code means. Well, maybe anyway, if the ECU is good. If not, well you know you can get a used one fairly cheap.

Auotparts stores like checkers will read the codes for free, also, in case you can't afford the datalogger right now.

I think a compression test is just par for the course here in DSM Land. You can also borrow that from parts stores if you don't want to spend the $20.

What is a CTS?