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Sparks and Car Dying...

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InfiniteGSX

20+ Year Contributor
3,183
15
Dec 10, 2002
Tijeras, New Mexico
Ok. To start off with my story. When I did my last motor swap, which only lasted about a 100 miles, Everytime I push the clutch, it would slow the motor down, like rpm's would drop. I just put a new motor in and now when I press the clutch and hold it will kill the motor pretty quick. I have to rev it to press the clutch to keep it from dying.

However, this is new to me.... Sparks fly!!!! When I press the clutch sparks fly everywhere from under the car and it is making some kinda grinding sound when I press the clutch, I know the TOB is in there cause seriously....

If I rev it so I can press the clutch, press the clutch and try to put it into gear it will grind and pop in, so assuming I need some more bleeing. BUT that would NOT make sparks fly like that.

Would rust do this? Its a good clutch but the Flywheel, Pressure Plate and Clutch disc got a little bit of surface rust. Not full out gold, just some flakes of rust on it. Would that be the sparks and grinding sound? Is the clutch toast with the little bit of surface rust? or will it just burn off?

There's no way I could press the clutch if the TOB wasn't there....? nah.... I don't think so but my friend does. I drove it home and it was fine driving, its just when I press the clutch. It slipped into 3rd just fine and 4th just fine.

I'm gonna go to bed now cause I been up all night finishing putting it together.

BTW, even if I barely press the clutch peddle it will kill it...
 
I would check your clutch pedal adjustment, your slave and master cylinder for function. And with the car off I would shift, press/depress clutch while listening for any noises or loose parts in the tranny area. By looking at the bottom of the car can you tell where the sparks are coming from? Any shavings? What color? Any leaks? Are you sure that your axles are completely in? Make sure the axles driveshaft, and exhaust are clear and not rubbing or touching anything. Also you could look at the crankshaft for play.
 
Stop driving or turning on the car right now. First off, I would strongly recommend pulling the transmission and FULLY INSPECTING the clutch assembly, the input shaft sleeve (that the throwout bearing rides on), the throwout bearing itself, along with the entire clutch assembly (as you are likely over-extending the clutch and have possibly damaged it), and the flywheel/flywheel bolts.

Did you use NEW flywheel bolts? Red loctite? 100lb/ft torque on flywheel bolts?
Did you properly torque the pressure plate bolts?
Did you use a new throwout bearing?

Sparks should not be flying out from the transmission bellhousing under any circumstance.

Drop the transmission.
 
Sparks should not be flying out from the transmission bellhousing under any circumstance..

Really? I thought that was normal.

More info. Motor I just got came out of an Automatic. I pulled the little wrist thing that helps center the torque converter, and bolted MY stock flywheel with MY Stock bolts and my ACT 2600lbs Clutch. I did not use a new TOB because its been fine until this.

I honestly don't really have a way to drop the trans right now. But I am going to get the car up on jacks and I'm going to go under it and look for any sign of metal rubbing.

Also for some reason the Half Shaft rests 1/4" out of the hole when bolted to the block on the carrier bearing, causing it to leak trans fluid. I'm leaving puddles everywhere and have to keep filling up. I figured maybe the trans is not bolted in all the way, but its flush with the surface of the block.

My friend is going to get a truck and a trailer and come pickup the car and were gonna rip it down at his house.
 
Ok, found the problem. Was missing a bolt. But its strange, cause the block and trans are threaded? I don't know why. But it was pulling the TC into the flywheel when I press the clutch. So that was my issue.
 
Ok, found the problem. Was missing a bolt. But its strange, cause the block and trans are threaded? I don't know why. But it was pulling the TC into the flywheel when I press the clutch. So that was my issue.

Are you talking about the rear bolt that connects the rear tab of the engine block to the transmission bellhousing that bolts in by the rear mount/transfer case area? Yeah, that one is important to have, as you found out. If you need the part number, or the bolt dimensions, just ask, and I can get them for you.
 
LOL i had this same problem, i was looking at the block when i swapped in another trans thinking WTH its double threaded, i even started a thread on here to find WTH was going on, it took a trip to the junk yard to realize what needed to be there, i quickly pocketed the bolt and put it in, (Whew) i thought another trans was goin out.
 
I would love to have that if you can twicks... Cause both the block and the trans are threaded. but looks like the transmission is smaller then the other bolts... I'm sure its around somewhere. But I'm so far failing to locate it. I was soo scared of what it could be... I do not remember having this bolt in before, or pulling it out this time... so dunno why it started now.
 
MD706012

Should be around $1.66 from the dealer if you get any sort of DSM discount price. Otherwise, list price is $2.37 + tax.

It is an M8x 1.25mm pitch x 60mm long Grade-10 bolt.

The block is drilled and threaded for a M10 bolt, and the transmission is threaded for a M8 bolt. The M8 bolt goes through the block hole and bolts into the transmission.
 
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