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This is from the prototype install when i got the first set of bushing made, This might help you out a bit..
First picture
a stock rear bushing in good shape.
Second picture
you can see the bushing rolls right over and has no support. The two half moon pieces in the above pictures are steel and give it something to cushion against but only after 30 or more degrees of movement..... I know for a fact mine are totally shot so I'm sure its way worst than this in heavy load conditions
Third picture
The removal of the suck factory rubber bushing. I used no special tools nothing that can't be aquired locally.
Drill with a 15/64 bit. Just what was laying on the bench. Any bit around this size will work. The rubber isn't all the way around but just in two small radiused areas 180 out from each other they probably take up 45 degrees on each opposing sides total. Insert said bit and get after it. I put it in at and angle and move up and down to rip through the stuff. Total time 3 minutes maybe. Now take out the center piece with the steel bushing. This is what it will look like.
Now with this removed you have a 1/16 to 1/8 inch layer of rubber to deal with. I chucked up a cut of /grinding wheel in a mandrel and started after it. After 30 seconds I said forget this It works ...to expedite the situation I broke out the torch and burnt out the remanding rubber. Took about 5 mins to burn it all off. A large hole saw could also be used to cut away on the inside.
DO NOT USE A TORCH WHILE THE SUBFRAME IS STILL IN THE CAR OR UNDER IT....BEING DEAD WILL SUCK
Remember the torch can ignite fumes from the gas tank and will create one large explosion
Forth Picture -
Now if you look at the picture of the cartridge roll ...Look deep inside the hole you'll notice that theres a shadow inside the top of the subframe assembly this is because from the factory they build the subframe then the bushing itself has a metal jacket. The jacket is formed then the rubber is vulcanized to the jacket with the steel bushing placed in the middle.
The jacket in this is NOT TO BE REMOVED. Now the jacket has a small rounded leading edge so it aligns and falls into place when the subframe was original built...The poly bushing goes in 80% of the way by hand the last little bit slows down because the metal jacket gets smaller and radius out. This is what holds the poly bushing in place.
Fifth Picture
Is the bushing installed
Now the steel bushing. It was cut off the interpiece saved from above. Razor blade and wirewheel works for this. As the bushing goes in it actually pushes out on the polyurethane. This continues to help lock these in the subframe.
My best guess would be about 3 to 4 hours for the average joe to remove the subframe slide it out and install these.
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