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swapping my 16G for a t-25

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I'm pretty sure they're just stock.. =/
you can't quote me on that though... LOL

but one BIG question i have is...
If iwas to rebuild the turbo... is it just a matter of replacing the little rings and stuff? or do i have to send the turbo out to get balanced and everything?

and if you do have to ship it out then about how much does that cost?

I don't use the sharpie method not precise enough I use a very sharp scribe and a good straight edge. Mark the shaft and the compressor while the nut is still on.
 
That is still 25 to 75 dollars more than the rebuild kit. You will also have to re/detune the car afterwards to get everything running with the new turbo (the new one may also have to be rebuilt)
 
Saving money definitely talks to me ;)
i'm just don't wanna try to rebuild it and fail misserably..
Has anyone personally rebuilt there's and used the "mark the shaft and compressor" method?


Edit: i did get a chance to check my turbo and it is a small 16G
 
First i think i'm going to just check all my vacuum hoses for leaks.. because my step dad thinks that if there's a vacuum leak then that could throw off the timing causing the turbo to run bad. (im not sure how accurate that is but yeah....cheap to double check so why not) and then if that doesn't do it then i'm pretty sure i'm going to go with a 16G. I found a Big EVO8 16g for $330 brand new.
 
First i think i'm going to just check all my vacuum hoses for leaks.. because my step dad thinks that if there's a vacuum leak then that could throw off the timing causing the turbo to run bad. (im not sure how accurate that is but yeah....cheap to double check so why not) and then if that doesn't do it then i'm pretty sure i'm going to go with a 16G. I found a Big EVO8 16g for $330 brand new.

evo 8 turbos wont work on our cars. Evo 3 turbos do
 
Still working on this huh? I would think that you wouldve had this all figured out by now. There have been a few different turbos in the classifieds section since you started this thread. I hope you have been looking. If not your missing out on some good deals.
 
I talked to my stepdad about getting a new turbo and he said i should check all the vacuum lines first because he seems to think that if there was a leak then it could throw off the timing of a valve in the wastegate (i think) causeing the turbo to spit out oil and smoke. That doesn't seem right to me but could that be true? I did have a CEL for a vacuum leak when i got my ODB checked.
 
I didnt feel like re reading the thread but did you say your turbo was smoking or just underperforming?

If its underperforming do a boost leak test like your father said. However he is wrong about saying a boost leak will cause you to spit out oil and smoke. Thats either due to worn valve seals or a blown turbo. In your case most likely a blown turbo.
 
The turbo is pretty much gone it feels like. It smoke when i shift gears at high rpms. I can hear it spool up but there's no pull. There's also a pool up oil under the band clamp...
I'm gonna go get some b12 to spray on my vacuum lines.
 
You can hear it spool but it doesn't pull? I would still check for boost leaks. If a lot of air is leaking out somewhere between the compressor and your motor, then the turbo has to work harder to push out a set psi of boost. This can also cause your turbo to get overworked, and then end up blowing from all the stress. Sounds to me that your turbo is shot, but it could be because of a leak. I'm no expert though, but you should get everything checked out, just to be sure.
 
i do need to check for boost leaks.
Also i can hear a kind of sputter sometimes when i'm driving... like in the in the air circulation part of my engine.. it's odd
any ideas?

Edit: it tends to happen from 2000 rpms to 3100 and around 15 - 18% throttle....
 
plugs and plug wires? or did you mean spark plug wires?
and it wasn't like the car stuttering itself...
it was like a baseball card taped to the end of my muffler...
maybe the waste gate flapper? =/ (just a stab in the dark)
 
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