Project "Rely-on-ability" : 6 bolt rebuild

[VisionPaintball]

Great job Tom.
When you are done you can get mine running!

 

[gsxeclipsed]

Great write up so far keep it coming. im in the process of doing the same thing myself i want to drive my car and not fix it.

 

[99gst_racer]

I prefer moly-filled assembly lubes, but I've not gotten into engine guts this century.

Not much has changed - moly based lubes are still the best.


Your progress looks great, Tom. Keep up the good work.
I think one of the Link guys borrowed that "Rely-on-ability" line from my profile here though. I got it from NABR a while back.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Not much has changed - moly based lubes are still the best.


Your progress looks great, Tom. Keep up the good work.
I think one of the Link guys borrowed that "Rely-on-ability" line from my profile here though. I got it from NABR a while back.

Perhaps I got it from you, I wouldn't put it past me seeing as how I forget just about everything within 3 seconds

I got the water pump on the other night, but haven't done anything else because of some shipping mishaps. Hopefully I can update soon!

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Update time!! I got a lot accomplished in a measly 2 hours

Waterpump:

Pretty straight forward, it's 5 bolts and just copper spray (I always put a bit of black RTV on both sides anyway).

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Fuel filter:

I stripped the crap out of the nut, even using a flare wrench I ended up getting really mad and just using an adjust lock-wrench (brain fart on what it's called right now).

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

re-teflon'd the fitting:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Front case:

Finally got the new castle plug from JNZ and used hi-temp sealant on this. I just finger tightened it and used a mallet and flat head screw driver to put extra torque around the nut.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

When doing the BSE, make sure you put the bolt INSIDE the lip of the gear, not on the flat side. I used red loctite and torqued to 20 ft/lb:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Put lithium grease on the gears:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

blue loctite to 18 ft/lb:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Use a 12mm open ended wrench to hold the BSE stub shaft and tighten the oil pump gear bolt down to 30 ft/lb using red loctite:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

More copper spray:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

I greased the crankshaft prior to putting the front case in. Here's a pic of new guide pins for the block/front case:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Note the orientation of the balance shaft sprocket and crank trigger plate:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

This is how I've always torqued that stupid crank bolt down. Just stuff a bunch of rags in the crank until it doesn't spin anymore. I used red loctite and torqued to 60 ft/lb on the bolt.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

When bolting on the front case, MAKE SURE, you either use a sealant or RTV on this bolt, or else it will leak.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Oil pickup:

Since I have ARP mains now, I had to drill the mounting hole for the oil pick up a bit larger:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Here's a curious question, does anyone know the answer to this? What's up with the drilled/cut/welded crank? Sadly enough, I don't know if it was like that prior to my build or if the machine shop just did it

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Oil pan gasket:

straight forward, I cleaned it off and used some "great stuff" and a new felpro gasket, torqued all bolts to 10 ft/lb.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Cleaned it off:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Note the orientation of the bolts. There are TWO that are shorter than the rest. These two bolts need to be used under the oil pump sprocket and the one next to it. If you can imagine, if they are too long, they will make contact with the timing belt.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Head:

New guide pins from JNZ:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

ARP: I used blue loctite where the stud goes to the block, finger tightened and snugged with a hex wrench (don't apply too much torque to just the stud/head). put moly lube on the top threads (where the nut will go).

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

set the engine at somewhere BTDC:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

STOP! If you are running aftermarket springs/retainers in your head, read on. At least in my case, the BC springs/retainers are a bit larger than stock so the ARP washer won't go all the way down when the stud is in the head. So, before you put the head on, drop the arp washer in each respective slot. You can see clearly here why this needs to be done prior to putting the head on. I used a screwdriver to point and slide the washers on, it's much easier than trying to eyeball or needle nose them into position.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Ok, now that the washers are in, I sprayed the headgakset about 4 layers worth on each side.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Now carefully slide the head on, watch the washers so they don't get pushed out by the headstud!!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

I cleaned the CAS and put a new Oring on.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

OFH:
Pretty straight forward, clean both surfaces, new teflon, a bit of black RTV, and copper spray.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

2g mounting bracket:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Here's "the cut" you have to make to modify the 2g bracket to accomondate the 1g water pump.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Install the timing idler pulley with red loctite to 35 ft/lb, finger tighten the timing tensioner pulley on.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Waterpipe:
I used hylomar on the actual water pump housing and a new Oring for the pipe. This is an NT water pipe, no water provisions.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Here's the bolt everyone complains about when the turbo is on. Just take a swivel socket or a gear wrench to get at it. In this case, it's right there

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

hmm.. Just had to take a step back:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Thermo housing:

Black RTV, gasket, and more RTV (you're using thin layers right!?)

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Turbo was all put together, so I just needed to clean off the gasket (get Permatex gasket remover, that stuff WILL TAKE OFF ANYTHING!!) and put her back together. I like using some copper high temp RTV on exhaust parts, some people don't, some people do.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The shop put a plug in here as a precaution, since I'm running the oil feed from the head, it obviously has to come out.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I had to admire my new valve cover

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

More updates later

 

[99gst_racer]

Here's a curious question, does anyone know the answer to this? What's up with the drilled/cut/welded crank

Evidence of being balanced. Remove material here, add material there. The rotating assembly of any internally balanced engine should show signs of being balanced.

 

[DsmDave95]

awsome thread, you do some good work there Tom, i use alot of your threads as a refrence to alot of things i do, and this thread will be bookmarked on my comp. build came out very nice. congrats
-Dave

 

[BoostedinSoFla]

Beautiful build so far Tom. Powdercoated parts are definitely a plus. I'm curious though. Why did you go external? Better boost control?

 

[Nicks2319]

This is one of the most informative threads I've ever seen on Tuners! Keep it up!

 

[welfle18]

Gives me hope and courage to do my own build here soon!! Keep up the good work man and love the color scheme you got going on. Looks sharp!

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Thanks for the support guys, I did a bunch more work today, but i'm too lazy to post it just this second.

Evidence of being balanced. Remove material here, add material there. The rotating assembly of any internally balanced engine should show signs of being balanced.

Thanks Paul. I guessed that was the reason, but the amount of drilling/welding seemed very overwhelming to me. Oh well, now I know.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Beautiful build so far Tom. Powdercoated parts are definitely a plus. I'm curious though. Why did you go external? Better boost control?

Yup. I didn't feel like dicking around with the adjustable wastegate that PTE supplies, so I just went external. I figured the gate would be useful for the next turbo I get anyway.

Gives me hope and courage to do my own build here soon!! Keep up the good work man and love the color scheme you got going on. Looks sharp!

That's the whole purpose of this thread. I think a lot of people are too scared to do engine work because it's foreign to them. I love taking and making pictorials because it brings light to things. Once you see it in front of you, it's not hard at all. Time, knowledge, and patience will net you the best things

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Continuing on... I found a barbed 1/4"fitting for the water feed for my turbo. Put my autometer water temp sensor in and put OEM sensors.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I put my JMF coil pack bracket on. I had to switch to two smaller 10mm bolts to fit it on.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I guess I'm just another victim of rushing, even though I've tried to take this project as slow as I can. I had to put the power steering bracket on and had to remove the water pipe to do it. I pulled it out and put a new layer of hylomar on there for good measure.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Bolted on the oil return line, First I cleaned off the crap on the oil pan with gasket remove (this stuff is really nasty, I got it on my skin and it instantly burned). I used black RTV and an OEM gasket along with the little 6mm bolts (yes defiant, one day I'll tap it to SAE )

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Put the alternator on. It's just a really long 8x1.25 bolt and nut for the pivot and about a 8x1.25x50 bolt for the bracket/water pump.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Bolted the knock sensor on. I used red loctite.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Bolted the JMF SMIM on . It's dirty and beat up, so I did my best to polish it up with some rags and mother's mag. I have a heat barrier gasket and used black RTV and copper spray on both sides of this. I used blue loctite on the bolts and torqued to 20 ft/lb on the smaller bolts and 25 ft/lb on the larger (14mm head) bolts.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

A little elbow grease really shined her up. I just went side to side with the rag on the runners.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I ping ponged back and forth because I forgot to do these two before, bolted the new OEM autotensioner on. The bolts are 8x1.25x~35.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Teflon'd and bolted on the OEM oil pressure sender to the OFH.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I lubed up both sets of Orings on the injectors and put them back on the the rail.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

I like putting the bottom seal on the head and then inserting the fuel injector into the seal. This is my foolproof way of installing these things. I torqued the fuel rail bolts to 18 ft/lb.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

back to the turbo, here's my FP manifold, PTE 5031RE with PTE housing, and NT water pipe. No beating up this time to make it fit.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I put grease on the Oring on the dip stick tube and had to bend it to nearly straight to make it fit. The bracket bolts to the bottom of the power steering bracket, as seen where my socket is.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Almost done

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Some bling! SS bolts and powdercoated radiator brackets.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.