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I would go with the Toyotool one, on the site the first one pictured on the left. I have heard of both methods working to keep the valves from falling. It may not be a bad idea to use the compressed air to make sure nothing else in the cylinder is leaking. If something is, then you'll lose your valve into the cylinder but will need to take your head off anyway to fix the leak. Most people I've heard of use the rope method.
To install cams, springs, and retainers, the timing belt needs to come off. You will need to break the cam gears loose from the original cams while they are still on the head. I find it difficult that to do it any other way. You can install them on the new cams after you put them in. It is pretty straight forward, especially if you are going to be doing valve stem seals at the same time. After removing the camshafts, use the spring compressor tool to take out the C-clips held by the retainer that hold the valve. Remove your compressor tool, the retainers and springs should be free. Change your VSS, put your new spring and retainer in place, compress the spring and retainer and put the C-Clips back in.
Since the timing belt needs to come off, there's no better time to learn how to do that yourself either. The VFAQ gives a good way to do it, but so does the Haynes manual. The battery tie-down make shift is as good as it gets if you don't want to spend money on a tool you will use once every 60k miles. Mark the direction of the rotation of the belt when cylinder 1 is at TDC. Then mark some teeth on the belt and some corresponding teeth on the cam gears, crankshaft, and oil pump sprockets. Then know that when you go to put the belt back on, the weight of the oil pump sprocket should be to the bottom and all those points should match up when you have it all said and done. I've used white paint to mark the points in the past and it does really well.
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Brian
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