Finally Replaced the Valve Cover Gasket [Merged 7-9]

[mirkoelek]

Did you put any silicone on the edges of the cams.... I had the same problem before, and this solved it

 

[yellowkyd278]

Since the spark plug gaskets weren't leaking any oil, I just used a tq wrench on the outer bolts at 30 inch/lbs. I picked up the crafstman inch-lb tq wrench at OSH. The leak seems to have gone away but before I tightened everything, I sprayed the cover w/out touching the plugs/filter etc... just to get the oil off. I took the car for a spin and I while there is no leak, I hear a sizzling noise under the heat shield on the the manifold. I'm like 99% sure that that is water because if oil boiled under heat, it seems like our cars.. and all cars for that matter would be in loads of trouble.

I'm right.... right?!

Thanks for all the replies!

 

[Lurker]

He is right. If you must sandblast do not do under the cover and make sure that no glass beads get into the baffling or oil passages. I bought a nice powdercoated valve cover off ebay a few years back. Two months later spun a rod bearing and blew the turbo seals. While the engine was getting rebuilded I washed the valvecover and to my dismay, tons of glass beads and grit came out of the baffle area. That valve cover ended up costing me $$$$$$$.

I know this is an old thread, but how could media or sand from the valve cover reach any of the bearing area ? Doesn't oil that reaches the bearing area ( or any of the pressurized place ) get filtered by the oil filter first ? A typical oil filter will filter down to 4-micron particles, so the media should have gotten caught by the filter..

 

[Defiant]

The pump picks up unfiltered oil. The oil filter bypass -usually wide-open with cold oil- allows unfiltered oil to go through the system. At the least, your pump is dealing with grit.

 

[Dan97gst]

I was just wondering how hard it is to change the valve cover gasket? Is it like something that can be done with minnor tools or does it have to be put in the shop? Thanks

 

[kenamond]

I was just wondering how hard it is to change the valve cover gasket? Is it like something that can be done with minnor tools or does it have to be put in the shop? Thanks

It's not too hard. You can do it yourself.

You need a new gasket kit. Before laying your money down, make sure it has a total of 6 pieces. There's the main gasket that goes around the perimeter of the head, four spark plug well gaskets, and one half-moon plastic piece.

I broke my valve cover doing this, so be careful.

It's a bit of a pain to get the old VC off. I used a flat screwdriver and a rubber mallet to break it loose, but I left a few scratches on the surface of the aluminum head. Others may have a slick way to do this. Mine doesn't leak, so I don't think the scratched did any harm.

If you have a Haynes or Chilton manual, it described most of the process, but you need to be careful installing the VC with the new gaskets so that they stay stuck to the VC and don't sag down when you flip it over to put it onto the head. That's why I broke mine. One of the spark plug well gaskets shifted out of its slot.

I then got a new 1g VC and was much more careful.

I used high-tack gasket sealer to hold the gasket into the VC grooves.

Make sure you clean the head surface well to get the old RTV off of it. Don't scratch it.

The manual tells you where you need RTV on the head surface, but it's basically wherever you have sharp corners and all the way around the half-moon seal.

When you go to torque down the bolts, be VERY careful. They don't need much, and you have to work your way around in a few passes to seat the gasket. The torque specs are low; so low that I couldn't set my torque wrench that low. Many on the forum just do it by hand, but if you overtorque them, you might crack the VC. That's no fun at all.

I know that there are more detailed discussions about this on the forum, and I urge you to search for them and be aware of the potential problems.

But you can and should do this yourself if you're at all comfortable under the hood. Just be careful.

 

[daren_p]

Yes its an easy do it yourself but be careful as you can break it. Make sure you get all the bolts, if its still stuck use a paint scraper to seperate it, a screw driver can cause damage as the aluminum is soft. Clean off both mating surfaces completely, sometimes you may need a solvent. Use some RTV over the cam plug and on the cam cap corners. Torque the cover in a circle pattern, all the outside, than all the insides. You will have to go around several times. It is really nice to have a torque wrench as you only need about 3-4 ft lbs. Snug with a nut driver should net you the same results.

[Do not even think of using a torque wrench on these fasteners. Snug only. Consider the inner corners of the cam cover to be made of eggshell.]

 

[Dan97gst]

so I don't understand what part did the vavle cover break when you where taking it off or putting it back on, and how did it break so I don't make the same mistake. And Also you only tighten down the inner bolts finger tight and torqe the outter bolts correct? Thanks again

 

[daren_p]

Yes its an easy do it yourself but be careful as you can break it. Make sure you get all the bolts, if its still stuck use a paint scraper to seperate it, a screw driver can cause damage as the aluminum is soft. Clean off both mating surfaces completely, sometimes you may need a solvent. Use some RTV over the cam plug and on the cam cap corners. Torque the cover in a circle pattern, all the outside, than all the insides. You will have to go around several times. It is really nice to have a torque wrench as you only need about 3-4 ft lbs. Snug with a nut driver should net you the same results.

[Do not even think of using a torque wrench on these fasteners. Snug only. Consider the inner corners of the cam cover to be made of eggshell.]

Defiant why did you edit my post? There is absolutly nothing wrong with using a torque wrench on the valve cover. Guess what, they give you a torque spec in the manuel for a reason, ever heard of something called an inch pound torque wrench? Do they even make a std ft/lb torque wrench that will do 3 or 4 ft lbs, not that I've seen. I figured most people with half a brain could figure out you use an in/lb wrench & convert it. Like I said in my first statement use a proper torque wrench. For all the people that don't have half a brain, use a in/lb wrench.

 

[Defiant]

Yes, there is a lot wrong with using a torque wrench on a valve cover. To start, very, very few -and, I'll wager you a lot that someone asking about it doesn't- people own an inch-pound torque wrench. Trying to use a foot-pound torque wrench on a valve cover will snap it sure as shit, as most won't even start to trigger at the tiny bit of twist needed to get the seal as snug as needed.

 

[compression]

Just snug it up with a 3/8's ratchet, hell you could get it tight enough with a tiny 1/4 ratchet.

 

[Dan97gst]

I was wondering does anyone have pictures of them doing it themselves. Thanks

 

[Defiant]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208802
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/BradBauer/engine/valve.html

If those aren't enough, pay a shop to do it for you.

 

[chanley talon]

I was wondering if a vavle cover gasket leak will effect the engine performance?

Will a vavle cover gasket leak make you lose hosepower?

Or cause any other ill effects. I have never thought about this before and would be intrested in some input on this. THANKS!

 

[romeen]

I don't think the leak would directly cause a performance loss. However depending on where the oil ends up some secondary problems may occur. An example would be leaking spark plug gaskets allowing oil into the plug wells. The oil can apparently trap moisture which would otherwise evaporate. This in turn can cause misfire under load as the spark will find an easier path from the wire tip into the surrounding moisture instead of across the plug gap. This is according to literature from Magnecor.

 

[IslandTSI]

I will second what the above poster said.

But also take into consideration why you have a leak. Check your pcv valve and make sure it is not fouled up. If it is no releasing pressure like it should then any little leak will become an issue. Pull the valvecover, inspect the gaskets, check the pcv valve and replace the gaskets.

Its about the easiest thing to do on a dsm and relatively cheap at $36 or so for a full gasket set

 

[Gregory]

I can't think of why it would cause performance to suffer. Just keep an eye on oil levels.

 

[Cs4g63]

If you lose to much oil than that will cause a problem with performance when things inside the motor start to get ruined.

 

[chanley talon]

Well thanks for all the infromation ! It appears that the bolts were finger loose . I found that the car is suffering from phantom knock.

 

[Calan]

Make sure not to over-tighten the bolts... or you'll have permanent leaks

They should only be tightened to 4-5 lbs I believe. I use a 10mm deep well on a screwdriver and just snug them down.

 

[romeen]

Yes, do not overtighten or you will crack your valve cover. The torque spec is only 3 ft/lbs. You can finger tighten with a deep well socket then slowly give it another 1/4 turn with a 1/4" ratchet.

 

[Calan]

yep... I don't even trust a ratchet though, so I use my 1/4" screwdriver. (I tend to get manly when torquing bolts for some reason )

 

[DGajre777]

Old thread - but the CAPS part number for the EVO VIII aluminum half moon gasket is MD372348, in case anyone was looking (like me).

 

[screamindemon]

Old thread - but the CAPS part number for the EVO VIII aluminum half moon gasket is MD372348, in case anyone was looking (like me).

SWEEEEEEETTT

 

[gstryyder]

that is a pretty cool idea, i am gonna have to go get one of those for my car!