Thanks guys, Ill def post in the marketplace.

Hey guys, well Im back but not for the reason most of you might think. Lets recap over the past 4 years for those keeping up. Car was built (mostly), car burnt down (mostly), sued the guy that worked on the car, got a judgment against him, the car is currently still in NC in a storage unit...

Hey guys i posted some parts for sale today on the marketplace here. Below are the links for quick access if you or anyone you know would be interested in what i have for sale just let me know.Message - DSM Classifieds Message - DSM Classifieds Message - DSM Classifieds

Thanks guys, ill let you know what happens as soon as i find out. and as soon as i can get another DSM you better believe i will.

Final update: Well its a been a long time and a lot has happened. First the guy that was working on my car went out of business and dropped my car off in my front yard with no warning one day, half built. So after looking for months i found a shop in North Carolina to finisht the build, Driven...

Mad props to you sir, you have more skill and patience then me and I envy your "work of art" in progress.

i completely agree, i dont know why it wasnt done this way to begin with..

i think its electrical too, but i just wanted to ask that for S&G. And the shop owner told me i dont own him anything else since he couldnt get it working so thats all taken care of. im going to have them bring the car to my house and check it out. the shop has tried 2 diff crank sensors and...

this might be a dumbass question, but could it be bc i have long rods in the block?

UPDATE:Well long time no talk guys. So good news first, the car is completely back together.....and thats where the good news ends. the car still wont start, the dealership wont look at it, and my only options at this point is to trailer it to either Hahn or MachV (i dont even know if they...

not sure if they checked the starter, ill have to double check with them. my clutch is modular so no flywheel.

thats not a bad idea actually. and i agree it has been goign on for way way too long. no updates as of yet. they are finishing putting everything back together. but still no start just cranking.

just called. checked coil pack and no problems found. looking at fuses right now. probably going to end up taking the car to local mitsu dealer and having their techs figure this thing out. unless any of you know any shops in TN, VA, or NC..

good suggestions SLO2GEN, i advised them today to check the coil pack so i assume they will either do that today or monday. if that doesnt work ill have them check the things you suggested and post up the numbers.

i got both EGR block off plates, and as far as i know there is nothing uncapped on the IM. do you think it could be possible that my coil pack is broke?

correct on 120 being low, but its a low compression motor, and rings are not seated yet, so i think it will raise once i get it running. as i said before they have already taken the MSD products off once and tried to start it and still didnt work. so assume the setup is stock, any suggestions on...

the timing has already been checked and it is in time, a compression test was done and it registered 120 across the board. also the connectors have been re-checked and are in correctly. when i talked to them today they were checking the wires from the computer harness to make sure none were cut...

honestly dude i dunno. im just going off what the shop is telling me. i guess the computer is suppose to send a signal to the crank sensor and then the sensor sends one back to the computer, which causes the injectors to fire in turn, turning the crank....i guess? is that not right?

stock coil pack is what is installed. do you any of you think maybe it could be a lose wire in the psm socket? would keep a signal from traveling back to the computer? could the portfueler have anything to do with this?

Ok we are all convinced its a electrical problem now. so ill give you another scenario. the engine is getting power, the starter comes on, the crank signal is getting a signal but is not sending anything back. check all other sensors and they are in the right place according to the shop. so...

no i specified to the machine shop i just wanted the crank balanced and no knife edging at all.

ok thanks for the pic. would having the crank balanced cuase a problem for these notches

ok thanks guys

well the shop checked the coil pack and VSS connectors, i assume by VSS you mean cam sensor connector? anyways the shop said they checked it out. they are going to drop the oil pan and check the sensor on the crank. pretty much i have no f'ing clue what any of this stuff is or how to check it, i...

so another update: tested crank sensor and its fine, even tried a new one and still no fire. tried 2 diff computers both worked but still not fire. mechanic thinks maybe machine shop forgot to put some sending sensor back on the crankshaft before putting it back in?? im not real familiar with...

noticed you have alot of the same parts i invested in. pretty exciting to see another 420a+t done. hope you get the belt problem fixed.

they checked the timing and said it appears to be in correct time, when you turn the key ignition fires but the crank gets not signal. so its alteast trying to fire up. anyways when i talked to them today they are checking the sensor to make sure its not fried. hopefully they will get it fixed...

Update:So the fuel problem is fixed, it was a tightness issue. but now there is a new problem and i need some suggestions from you guys. Everything is put on and the shop went to start the car, but there is no signal coming from the crank. I have a brand new crank sensor so i know its not...

well actually once installed in the car you have about 1.5 to 2 inches from the IM to the firewall. so really dont even have to worry about the IM hitting the firewall during engine torque.

we decided today we are going to replace the o rings with new o rings, nothing seems to be wrong with the one on the injectors now, but we are going to replace them for sh!its and giggles (cant hurt) and make sure everything is tight. start the car with a volt box connected to the fuel pump...

but if you push against the injectors does it cause a little stream of gas to leak out?

Negative. the washer is used simply to tighten everything up. before the fuel rail moved easily back and forth after adding washers there is no movement. Hahn suggested using a lathe to grind down the fuel rail couplers which does the same thing, its just the washers were a little easier.

I gotta agree with miklaver. the only reason i changed my from stock was bc i was going with a 60mm TB and it was easier to buy a new IM rather then have my stock one bored out.

yea, they actually tightened it up a little more the other day by adding a washer between the rail and bracket. its all tight, it doesnt leak unless you push against the injectors. i just want to make sure this thing wont kill my car.

no, the fuel rail is connected to a injector plate that hooks to the head. nothing pushes against the injectors but my mechanic pushed against them and then they leaked. so they dont leak unless force is put against them, and from what Hahn said and from what i can see there shouldnt be anything...

I have the portfueler assembled and on the car, it doesnt leak as it sits, but if you push just a little bit against any of the injectors they leak. obviously i understand that applying this pressure to them is why they are leaking. but im curious if you guys think i should worry about this...

btw, the obx will work with the portfueler you just have to do some grinding to relieve the issues with fitting.

97 GS black with purple pearl. pics in gallery, disassembled at the moment, hopefully running again soon....

im gonna go by the shop today and see what they have done.

sounds like thats talking about the primary injectors. we did shave some off the IM and a little off the VC and its fits up fine. But for some reason the secondary injectors are leaking where it meets up the secondary Hahn fuel rail.

thanks for the advice guys, ill let my shop know so they can check some of this stuff.

Update: So they car was suppose to be done by this week, but didnt happen. Now i have a leak on the portfueler where the secondary injectors and fuel rail meet and i we cant figure out why. Has anyone ever heard of this problem or know of any suggestions to fix it? Also there is a small leak on...

LOL!! Thats pretty damn funny and a good idea. thanks for the help

A set has been located by another member on here and will be shipped to me soon. Ill post pics as soon as i get them.

Ok let me begin by saying im not talking about the g@y @ss atlezzas. Im talking about the true european 2g tail lights with the amber turn signals. I know Mach V sales these but they are like $500-$600, and i was wondering if anyone knew where i might be able to get a set for a little cheaper...

CRAB CAKES AND FOOTBALL!!! THATS WHAT MARYLAND DOES!!!lol couldnt resist

anyone know where i get a heat shield of some sort to fit the Hahn super 16g. Im afraid the heat my start to melt my fans since it sits so close.

WOW!!! that car is amazing, the color scheme was an excellent choice and interior looks amazing. you get mad props from me for the time and effort put into that car.

wedgeengineering.com can make brackets for almost any car+seat combination. Megan racing recommends them for gettin brackets for our cars if using their seats.

just type "eclipse lip" into the search box on ebay, should pull right up