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On a Budget?
If you're looking to get the most out of your DSM on a budget, here's a short list of what you can do:
1. Free Mods >>
2. K&N Filter ($40).
3. Intake Pipe ($15 custom made).
4. Boost Gauge (VDO, SPI, or Autometer - $45-$60).
5. Manual Boost Controller ($40-$60).
6. Aluminized Cat-back Exhaust ($240-$350)
so far: $450...
still got money left?
7. Straight Pipe ($35)
8. Aluminized Downpipe ($130-$200)
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Start Shopping!
Find all of the parts listed to the right in our Parts Catalog. We list several vendors to choose from in order for you to find what you need at the price that best fits your budget.
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Tuning Guide > 1G Upgrades > 300hp
Assuming you've done all of the necessary maintenance talked about here, you can begin looking into the first stage of performance modifications. We've outlined the order in which you should go about modifying your (1G) 90-94 Mitsubishi Eclipse/Eagle Talon/Plymouth Laser below.
A typical Stage 1 setup will cost around $2000 for parts, assuming you do all of the installation - exact cost can vary greatly, especially if you're able to find deals on used parts. The most expensive portion of the parts list below is the exhaust system upgrades, the cat-back/turbo-back exhaust in particular. We suggest shopping around for the best prices, but try and buy from a source you can trust. Trying to save money by purchasing cheaper parts can sometimes cost you more in the long run.
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Stage 1 Upgrade Path
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Step 1:
Intake Pipe and Filter
A high-flow K&N (or similar) intake filter will help throttle response and help all future mods achieve maximum performance. A hard intake pipe will also improve air flow over the factory rubber snorkel. This, along with the MAS modifications should take care of your intake needs at this stage.
» Shop for Intake upgrades
Step 2:
Aftermarket Boost Gauge
The factory boost gauge is simply not accurate and shouldn't be trusted when raising boost levels. To avoid severe engine damage when increasing boost levels, an aftermarket unit is mandatory. You'll find many brands to choose from, including Autometer, Greddy, Apex'i, Blitz, HKS, Defi, and many more.
» Shop for Gauges
Step 3:
Boost Controller
In order to raise boost levels, you'll need a boost controller. Whether it be a manual or electronic unit will depend on your budget. Electronic boost controllers are cool looking, but most have been known to be unreliable at over 25psi. At this stage, you won't be turning the boost up past 16psi, so it won't be a problem. But if you plan on moving up to the next stage, a manual boost controller may be better.
» Shop for Boost Controllers
Step 4:
Cat-back Exhaust System
A 2.5" or 3" high flow exhaust system is needed to gain more power. You can choose between aluminized steel or stainless steel depending on your budget. If your power goals are over 400hp, you'll want a full 3" system from the turbo all the way back. A "cat-back" system replaces the exhaust components from the catalytic convertor to the exhaust tip. A "turbo-back" system replaces the entire exhaust system, and is made up of a "cat-back" plus a downpipe and high-flow cat/straight pipe.
» Shop for Cat-back Exhausts
Step 5:
High Flow Cat/Straight Pipe
Replace the factory catalytic converter with a larger, higher flowing unit. For off road use, simply bolt up a straight pipe in it's place - of course, this is obviously not street legal.
Step 6:
High Flow Downpipe
The factory downpipe is very restrictive and should be replaced with a larger, better flowing unit. For Stage 1, a 2.5" downpipe will do. If future plans involve 400+ horsepower, consider a 3" downpipe. These are available in press-bent aluminized steel for those on a budget, or mandrel-bent stainless steel for those with a little more cash to spend.
» Shop for Downpipes
Step 7:
Exhaust Manifold
The exhaust manifold on 1G DSMs are notorious for cracking and leaking. The solution is to replace it with a ported factory 95-99 exhaust manifold or aftermarket tubular header. If you're planning on going with a full Garrett turbo, you'll need a manifold that is made to bolt up to a Garret turbo.
» Shop for Exhaust Manifolds
Step 8:
O2 Sensor Housing
In between the turbo and the downpipe is a 90 degree elbow called the O2 Sensor Housing. The O2 sensor screws into this housing. This is the last restriction in the exhaust system. The stock unit can be
ported out, or you can simply buy a better flowing unit. If you choose to go with a "turbo-back" exhaust system, this housing will automatically be replaced.
» Shop for O2 Sensor Housings
Step 9:
Fuel Pump
The stock fuel pump will not be able to supply the needed fuel for anything over 16psi of boost. Though you won't need to go past that in this stage, it's still cheap insurance to put in at least a 190Lph fuel pump to ensure you have enough fuel in case you want to raise the boost with race gas in the tank. It's also a good idea to
re-wire the fuel pump for consistent fuel pressure.
» Shop for High flow Fuel Pumps
Step 10:
Intercooler Piping
The rubber intercooler piping should be replaced with better flowing solid pipes. Some replacements will come with a larger throttle body elbow (which is needed also).
The turbo outlet elbow should be swapped out for a larger unit as well. Please note that if a Stage 2 setup is in the plans, this upgrade may not be necessary as the intercooler piping will likely be routed differently with a front mount intercooler.
» Shop for Intercooler Pipes
Drivetrain Upgrades
Performance Clutch
With more power on tap, the stock clutch probably won't last that long. It will start to slip, especially in the higher gears. This means it's time for a high performance clutch that can handle the increased horsepower.
» Shop for Aftermarket Clutches
Shifter Mods
If you have a 5-speed tranny, you'll notice that the shifting is likely less-than-desirable on the 90-94 cars. These transmissions tend to be notchy from the factory to begin with. The best solution short of a rebuild is to put in some good tranny fluid and replace the rubber bushings in the system with some metal bushings. This should help with grinding and missed shifts as well.
» Shop for Short Shifters
» Shop for Tranny Fluid
Limited Slip Differentials
If you have a front wheel drive DSM, you'll probably need an aftermarket LSD to keep the tires from spinning - especially if you plan on making more than the stage 1 power levels. FWD cars will have a more difficult time achieving fast 1/4 mile times compared to the AWD cars due to traction. Tranny rebuilds are the most opportune time to install LSDs, since the tranny is already being taken apart.
» Shop for Limited Slip Differentials
Auto Tranny Upgrades
Though you won't find as many turbocharged automatic transmission DSMs around as 5-speeds, there are modifications available to help improve shifting, help handle increased horsepower, and just make driving more enjoyable.
» Shop for A/T Upgrades
Please Note: 1G automatic transmission cars have a smaller stock turbo (the Mitsubishi 13G) than the 5-speed cars and will require a turbo upgrade in order to achieve Stage 1 performance levels.
See all available Turbo Upgrades.
300hp not enough? Check the Stage 2 Upgrade Path >
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