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ECMlink Wide band not reading the same in DSMLink

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My wideband doesn't show the same number on dam link. I don't know how to calibrate it. I been searching and could not find anything on it. Any advice on how to tune it.

Im not much help for most widebands... i know how to re-calibrate the MTX-L and ive read its the same as the LC-1

But for any help you will probably have to at least let us know that Wideband you are actually using since some of them vary quite a bit
 
The LC-1 and MXT-L are not the same calibration. The LC-1 uses a push button while the MXT-L just requires a removed sensor start up.

Wes is right, with my MXT-L I set the sweep to what I wanted, made sure that the wideband and AFREst preferences on Link are set to the same sweep.

Start the car to have the wideband reading and then shut it off so that the gauge is still on and Link is still logging. Slowly adjust the max voltage on Link for your wideband preferences so they start to line up. It shouldn't take much of an offset, I think I went to 4.76v for my max.
 
Procedure would still be the same on the Link screen as I mentioned by adjusting the max volt.

One of the downsides that the UEGO has is it's unable to be re/calibrated. IMO the only good thing that I like about the UEGO is it has a photosensitive cell to have auto brightness.
 
The LC-1 and MXT-L are not the same calibration. The LC-1 uses a push button while the MXT-L just requires a removed sensor start up.

Wes is right, with my MXT-L I set the sweep to what I wanted, made sure that the wideband and AFREst preferences on Link are set to the same sweep.

Start the car to have the wideband reading and then shut it off so that the gauge is still on and Link is still logging. Slowly adjust the max voltage on Link for your wideband preferences so they start to line up. It shouldn't take much of an offset, I think I went to 4.76v for my max.

So you fudged it in Link? On mine, the gauge was reading off, so I went into the LM programmer software and changed the output for the analog output. I read straight from the LC-1 to the laptop via a serial cable.

The issue with my gauge was a grounding offset. The location where my gauge is grounded has a 0.2V higher potential than where the LC-1 is grounded. It's probably due to the resistance in the small gauge wire I used. to connect the gauge to the LC-1.


OP, just how far off are you talking?
 
So you fudged it in Link? On mine, the gauge was reading off, so I went into the LM programmer software and changed the output for the analog output. I read straight from the LC-1 to the laptop via a serial cable.

I figured setting it in link would be easier than going back and forth into the programmer to set it. Perhaps I should take note of the values and swap them in and see what happens.
 
With my prosport wideband I had to mess with the numbers a bit to get it reading identical to my wideband and almost at the exact same time. If you go look online you can find what voltage corresponds to your gauges switch point, aka 14.7 at idle and what not, and input that into link with a LinearWB. I had to go through this method due to the fact that my wideband wasn't supported but im assuming you could do the same thing to get the voltages to be correct resulting in the correct wb reading.


Armin
 
Scott, the values you get in Link are now off. Possibly quite a bit.

For a 0-5V signal and a range from 7.4 to 22.4 AFR, you get 3 AFR per volt. That's 0.6 AFR for a 0.2V offset.

If you had to drop the max from from 5V to 4.76V, you had a 0.24V offset. You'd be off by up to 0.72 AFR.
 
Scott, the values you get in Link are now off. Possibly quite a bit.

For a 0-5V signal and a range from 7.4 to 22.4 AFR, you get 3 AFR per volt. That's 0.6 AFR for a 0.2V offset.

I adjusted my sweep range from 9.5-20. However I'll take that into consideration and check everything out on Logworks.

I will say that it's adjusted so that Link matches the gauges if that matters since it was reading low IIRC.
 
AEM widebands are apparently really difficult to get correct, and he wants to take out support for it all together, but its just too popular of a gauge.

You can try running linear wideband and setting the voltages in the preferences, depending on what you have the rotary knob set to, set the min voltage for the 11:1 and the max for 14.7:1 and .75 lambda and 1.00 lambda.

<a href="http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f224/mxdawg121/?action=view&amp;current=IMAG0241.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f224/mxdawg121/IMAG0241.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
It's a selection in link for what wideband you tell it you are using.
 
Sorry to bring this thread back but I too am trying to hook my AEM WB into link and Im confused about which pin assignment to hook it to. This is for a 1g. Id be switching it to LinearWB and but I absolutely DO NOT want to run it in the front O2/switch to narrowbandSIM. Should I use the EGR assignment and choose linearwb or do I need to get an Innovate kit to make it work correctly?
Thank you.
 
It's not about which pin, that's just the hardwiring part. Whichever ECU pin the sensor is connected to is the pin you chose in Link. If you want to use the EGR pin, then wire the wideband's 0-5v output into the EGR input. I've personally always used the same pin (rear O2), but I've never heard of certain pins working better or worse.

What does matter is which sensor is assigned to that pin. In order to get the AEM to read correctly (or close to it) in Link, you may need to try using different sensor assignments. When your selecting the pin assignment, you'll notice multiple options for the AEM wideband such as "AEM Wideband Gauge" and "AEM UEGO" and other similar names. Each one is different and you may still end up with an inaccurate display.
 
It's not about which pin, that's just the hardwiring part. Whichever ECU pin the sensor is connected to is the pin you chose in Link. If you want to use the EGR pin, then wire the wideband's 0-5v output into the EGR input. I've personally always used the same pin (rear O2), but I've never heard of certain pins working better or worse.

Ok, thanks for clearing that part up. If I had a rear o2, Id be all over that pin haha. Im gonna use the egr pin.

What does matter is which sensor is assigned to that pin. In order to get the AEM to read correctly (or close to it) in Link, you may need to try using different sensor assignments. When your selecting the pin assignment, you'll notice multiple options for the AEM wideband such as "AEM Wideband Gauge" and "AEM UEGO" and other similar names. Each one is different and you may still end up with an inaccurate display.

As for this part, Id be choosing the LinearWB option and setting my own switching voltage numbers. (I cant hook up my car to Link right now to verify this so Im not sure if what im saying is 100% correct or if Im thinking of another part.)
 
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