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1G 1G 4G63 valve cover torque specs

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insanewayne

15+ Year Contributor
317
1
May 18, 2004
Ladysmith, B.C._Canada
Hey guys,

I'm finally gettin a new valve cover to replace my cracked one, after the ####ing 50$ gasket comes in. And i just want to be double check the torque specs.

For the outside 8 bolts its 36 in-lbs, and the inner 5 its 24-36 in-lbs? right?

There maybe 10 outside ones (2 more under the timing belt shield...i wouldnt know)

Now, if thats right, then whats the best order to tighten them down for a proper seal?

thanks

wayne
 
tighten the bolts down until the valve cover cracks, then back off 1/2 turn!! Haha j/k seriously, most people don't have a torque wrench that reads in in/lbs so here's what I do. Start with the bolts in front. Tighten them down slowly until you just start to see the gasket begin to squish and protrude. That's plenty!! Keep doing that, until you can get a feel for the tension in the ratchet. This way, when you go to do the ones facing intake manifold, andthe ones in the plug well, you will know how tight to make them.

Mike
 
Ok thanks, my buddy has a in-lbs torque wrench at his shop, so ill just do what yeh said, but then after i'll tighten them down to spec. :thumb:

thanks

wayne
 
Ok, being a mod. i'll take your advice...but seriously? wouldn't it be better to do them to spec...or do they just crack too easy?...if so are any there other good ways to ensure its tight enough other then what NOSLO2PTO said?

thanks

wayne
 
I made the unfortunate mistake of trying to torque one of them to 3 ft. lbs on a torque wrench that measured in units of 10 :(. Created a small crack in the valve cover that hopefully JB weld will fix. Just snug them down and give them another 1/4 turn IMO.
 
insanewayne said:
Ok, being a mod. i'll take your advice...but seriously? wouldn't it be better to do them to spec...or do they just crack too easy?
I'd be very surprised to find anyplace that uses a torque value on a thing like this. Maybe the factory does with clutched pneumatic drivers, but I'd doubt even that. This is only one of the very, very many places in automobilidium where it's just feel. The rubber rim around the cam cover is held in place by the groove in the cover, so it can't wander out (like the tin valve covers on Chevys, for instance), and so long as it's just more than touching all the way around, it's not going to leak. And as you've already seen, yes, they do crack that easily.
 
I knew a guy that used to build racing engines in England. A couple of years ago, I was watching him put a rebuilt head on a short block in a parking lot here in the US of A. He wasn't using a torque wrench. I was outraged! I asked him how he could replace a cylinder head without the proper tool. He looked at me, rather annoyed, and said, "it's all feel."
 
Ok great guys

I just picked it up today, paid 20$ (CAN) for it , cuz i'm such a smooth talker said the guy, haha, but yeh i'll do as you all said and just snug it down nicely, and try to get the right "feel" LOL.

thanks all

Wayne
 
hand tighten it until your HAND can't turn it anymore, take out your wrench/ratchet/whatever, and tighten it another half a turn. Holds it on like a ####ing glove on OJ's hand.
 
LiquidOC said:
hand tighten it until your HAND can't turn it anymore, take out your wrench/ratchet/whatever, and tighten it another half a turn. Holds it on like a ####ing glove on OJ's hand.
While the oil seeps out of the cracks like blood from Nicole's neck once OJ made a Pez dispenser out of her.

I'd say about half as tight as you can turn it with your hand. Unless you're a girl. Under twelve.
 
Got my vavle cover, had a nice gasket on it that was in good enough shape to use...sweet, save me 50$....so im puttin it on, and the guy i pay room and board with says, well i'll snug it on for you i've done a few and have the "feel" for it....so i was like ok, just be real careful , cause they're just thin alluminum and they're known to crack easily...3 hrs for the job cause of a stripped outside center bolt on the rear side...OK, good to go, SWEET no more oil everywhere and no more10$ and week down the drain....

5 days later..........OIL EVERY WHERE!!....####in cracked......So choked.... :barf:
I got it for 22$ CAN with a gasket...man what a steal...now im lookin at AT LEAST 25 for the cover and 50 for the gasket set, cuz we siliconed the mother up real nice cause it was a lil used....so now its trash....not to mention the covers arent easy to find here on Vancouver island.....plus all the oil im'a have to put in it in the meantime

Some good news. my friend i bought the car off is trying to get the old one welded for me.
:thumb: I hope he pulls through...

Wayne
 
Defiant said:
I'd say about half as tight as you can turn it with your hand. Unless you're a girl. Under twelve.
I've used the torque wrench to measure it and 2-3 ft lbs is closer to what that under 12 girl can apply with one finger using a 1/4" ratchet.

On the bolt kits I was selling I told people to just tighten until the lock washer flattened. It really is that little force.

Steve
 
Seals fine with just the gasket in place and proper torque

Very minimal amounts of RTV should be used. Along the top of the semi-circle plug, and at sharp transitions on the valve cover.

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Didn't use rtv either, no leaks

I tighten them from the inside out using a nut driver, a screw driver with the 10mm head on it. Do not use a wrench of any kind, if you want to be tedious they rent a torque screw driver at autozone

The important part is doing the second pass to make sure they are all the same tightness. By the time you finish the last outer bolt the first inner bolt is usually a little loose again.
 
A little confused about exactly where rtv goes, is it just in parts where I circled in red and not orange circled area? Is standard black rtv good like this one?

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Last edited:
A little confused about exactly where rtv goes, is it just in parts where I circled in red and not orange circled area? Is standard black rtv good like this one?

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If you want to be extra safe then just put a very small amount of RTV on ALL the curved surfaces including the corners you circled and both sides of the half-moon (Get the aluminum Evo one). Use grey RTV. A lot of them say good for valve covers right on the package. Pretty easy to clean up too. Just grab an edge and peel up and wipe with a q-tip if you need to remove it again. Takes 5 min and guarantees no leaks I've done this 3 times on the same VC and plugwell gaskets. Absolutely no leaks still.

To tighten, I take a 10mm socket on an extension and snug everything down slowly. Start on the inside and tighten to where it just starts to want to stop turning. Start on the inside then do the outside. The bolts only need to be finger tight really.

Edit: Here's video that explains it nicely.
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Start at 8:53
 
A little confused about exactly where rtv goes, is it just in parts where I circled in red and not orange circled area? Is standard black rtv good like this one?

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As specified in the FSM, RTV is used at sharp transitions (sharp corners on the cam sprocket side) and over the half moon plug. Your labeling is correct on suggested application. I also use a touch of RTV on the sharp transitions on where I have the CAS as well.
 
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