GSTwithPSI Galant VR4 1837 of 2000

[GST with PSI]

GST with PSI updated GSTwithPSI's Galant VR4 #1837/2000

New personal best 1/4 mile 12.116 @ 117.34
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/took-1837-to-the-track-today.487436/page-2#post-153563427

View updates to this DSM profile...

 

[GST with PSI]

Got the new radiator in to replace the one I destroyed at the track. .

New SPAL "High Performance" 12" fan. This one is rated at 1600cfm, and has a more sturdy design. We'll see how it works out.

I used a combination of solid mounts and the push through ties to install the fans. Everything fits much better, and is much more secure.

First impressions: this setup moves a shit ton of air, but I won't get a real feel for how this performs until this summer. I can definitely tell it puts more of a load on the electrical system than previously, though. I think I may need to look into installing a high output alternator.

 

[iceguru1114]

Any word on the installation of the 68HTA?

 

[GST with PSI]

Any word on the installation of the 68HTA?

Yep, it's a work in progress. I plan to have it installed by next spring. I actually just ordered the oil feed lines and such needed to install it from Extreme PSI. The turbo itself has just been sitting on the shelf anxiously waiting to get installed:

All that being said, I REALLY want an 11 second pass on the bastard 20G. I was so close last season, but just ran out of time. Not only that, but the car is a beast on the street with the bastard. It spools as fast as any E316G I've ever had, which will be hard to sacrifice going to the more laggy 68HTA. On one hand, I want more. But on the other, I'm pretty happy with how the car currently performs.

I'm always trying to make improvements to the car, but finding the best way to do that on a budget isn't always easy. My goals and build plans often change on a weekly basis, so just stay tuned and we'll both see what happens in the future.

Thanks for following my build!

 

[iceguru1114]

Yep, it's a work in progress. I plan to have it installed by next spring. I actually just ordered the oil feed lines and such needed to install it from Extreme PSI. The turbo itself has just been sitting on the shelf anxiously waiting to get installed:

All that being said, I REALLY want an 11 second pass on the bastard 20G. I was so close last season, but just ran out of time. Not only that, but the car is a beast on the street with the bastard. It spools as fast as any E316G I've ever had, which will be hard to sacrifice going to the more laggy 68HTA. On one hand, I want more. But on the other, I'm pretty happy with how the car currently performs.

I'm always trying to make improvements to the car, but finding the best way to do that on a budget isn't always easy. My goals and build plans often change on a weekly basis, so just stay tuned and we'll both see what happens in the future.

Thanks for following my build!

I'm right there with you on the 'scope creep'. My friends give me alot of shit for not being done already with mine, but sometimes plans change...

I'm still up in the air about which turbo I want to end up with, and the 68HTA is definitely on my radar. I have a fresh 16g bolted on the long block right now, but I have a feeling I'll want more after a few months. I haven't done much research about the 20G, so I may have to look into that one. $/buck is appealing to me so if I can get good flow without huge lag without having to drop a coin on the HTA, that's what I'm about.

As far as following the build goes, after scouring the internet for good examples, your build is about as close to where I'd like to see mine end up as I could possibly find so, really, I should be thanking you for documenting everything so well.

 

[GST with PSI]

As far as following the build goes, after scouring the internet for good examples, your build is about as close to where I'd like to see mine end up as I could possibly find so, really, I should be thanking you for documenting everything so well.

I appreciate that. There are quite a few well documented Galant builds over on Galantvr4.org. Give that place a look if you haven't done so already.

 

[GST with PSI]

I started modding/building 1837 back in February of 2014, well before I was ready. I found issues with the car what threw me into building way before I had ever planned to. As a result, the build was unbalanced, and lacked the quality and finish I always envisioned my car having. Since my time and money aren't as plentiful as I wish they were, I had to build as both allowed.

I've been stacking parts and making plans for 1837 well over a year now. The plan all along was to eventually throw the built motor back in the car once I put it together like I wanted. In addition, I wanted the build to be balanced and well rounded overall, and I told myself I wouldn't tear back into the car until I had a parts stack that would allow for that. I busted the trans (which was always a piece of shit) last February when Pot was here. Since the car needed a trans, I figured that was my queue to get my ass in gear and start turning my parts pile into something tangible. Below is about 3 months worth of documentation/work.




So, let's rip this bi*** out

I started the motor build with
6 bolt block punched out 20 over
Stock uncut crank
ARP head and main studs
Ross 2G 85.5mm 8.3:1 forged aluminum pistons
King XP tri-metal racing series main & rod Bearing Set
Eagle H-beam rods sized for a 22mm wrist pin

Verified my measured oil clearances with Plastigauge. They're set a tad on the loose side at .003" right where I wanted them. Also checked the crank end play, which ended up right at .005".

Then checked the ring end gap, ringed the pistons, hung the rods, installed new Spirolox and bearings, and banged them in the bores.

 

[GST with PSI]

All new hardware for EVERYTHING. OEM BSE, OEM tensioner, Gates belts and pulleys, front case with straight cut gears, etc, etc.

I decided to go with a OEM composite head gasket this time. I also installed ARP head studs and new alignment dowels.

The head is pretty much stock with Manley springs and titanium retainers.

Piece of shit Magnus manifold started leaking again last season (second time since I've had it). So, I had a local shop re-weld the runners. We'll see where it starts leaking next...

Next, I installed the new 2G pickup tube.

 

[GST with PSI]

Then, hot coated all the exhaust parts and bolted the new 68HTA setup together. After that, I installed new exhaust manifold studs and bolted on the turbo assembly.

So, I needed an oil pressure gauge, but ran out of places to put gauges while not cluttering up the interior. So, I just hacked up the cluster and put it in there. It turned out pretty good, IMO.

Rebuilt the throttle body.

Also spent 1,000 hours sanding my valve cover so the paint would look decent.

 

[GST with PSI]

Motor done.

Motor dropped in.

New Fuel Lab filter setup.

New BOV bolted up to the badass short route piping Sal @ Street Side Motorsports made for me.

Final product.

Sooooo after all that, yesterday, I primed the motor, topped off the fluids and did a preliminary compression test. I got 150 psi on cylinders 4 and 3. In the process of testing number 2, the compression tester hose exploded. I guess that's a good sign. I finished the test with the little stopper insert, and got 150 psi across the board. I kicked on the fuel pump via ECMlink to check for leaks, and all good there as well. So, I cranked up the motor and it fired right up. The car ran great! I wanted to finish the breaking today, but it rained. Go figure. I'll update this again soon when the motor either blows up, or breaks in just fine. Least if it blows up, I'll know who f***ed something up

The car isn't done, and I'm not sure it will ever be. But I'm happy with the current status of the build. As long as it end up running as good as it looks, I'll be satisfied for now. Additionally, I needed to get done with 1837 so I can shift my focus to 820 and 1546. Both of those builds need some serious work.

I'm in the process of updating the mod list in my showcase to reflect all the changes I've made to 1837. Questions, comments, feedback welcomed.

 

[GST with PSI]

GST with PSI updated GSTwithPSI's Galant VR4 #1837/2000

Mod list updated + 68HTA installed.

View updates to this DSM profile...

 

[Type1DSMr]

That is one sexy engine bay !! You have great attention to detail, and I'm extremely impressed. I would like to see a video of it running if you could after the break in.

 

[miliman13]

Awesome broskie!! Any reason why you use a 2g oil pick up instead of a 1g? I'm currently building and had the choice of either, so I'm curious.

 

[iceguru1114]

Impressive as always

 

[GST with PSI]

I would like to see a video of it running if you could after the break in.

Ask and you shall receive! Here's a short video of the car running today after I got done with the short break in drive:

Awesome broskie!! Any reason why you use a 2g oil pick up instead of a 1g? I'm currently building and had the choice of either, so I'm curious.

The 1G pickups have been discontinued. So, you're stuck either finding a used 1G pickup, or buying a new 2G version. Additionally, since I have ARP main studs, I'd need to hack off the bracket on the 1G pickup. The general consensus from the "in the know" crowd was that a 2G pickup on a 6 bolt wouldn't hurt anything, so taking all of the above into consideration, I opted for the 2G version.

Impressive as always

Thank you, I really appreciate the positive feedback. How's your Galant coming along? Last I saw the motor was looking pretty much done.




The weather cleared up today, so I got to take the car out and finish the break in. I put about 20 miles on the motor, and it ran flawlessly. After the short drive, I brought it back home, checked for leaks and did an oil change.

The car is completely leak free, except for a tiny leak where the oil feed line meets the CHRA. I'll guess I'll have to give the fitting another 1/4 turn or so. Everything else is dry as a bone, which is nice.

The oil looked great, and I cut open the filter, which looked great as well. No metal or any other shit, just super clean.

Everything suggests the motor is in good health, so I guess it's ready for flogging now. We'll see how long it takes to break it.

The only other issue I noticed was the trans. I put in a new rebuilt trans, and the gears and synchros feel great. But shifting still feels notchy as f***. And now, the car is being a bi*** when I try to shift into 5th or reverse. At this point, I'm pretty confident the issue is with my shifter cables, or the shifter itself. I'll start by trying to make some adjustments to the cables, and check the shifter stops to see if they are interfering. If that doesn't work, I think I'll swap my JNZ short shifter out with a stock one just to see what happens.

I've read the manual on how to adjust the cables, and it's not terribly intuitive. It sounds like a guess and check kinda thing, which sucks balls. If any of you guys have figured out a way to adjust the cables and ended up with good results, let me know what you did.

 

[Type1DSMr]

She sounds great!!! Also, loving the oil gauge mod into the cluster.

 

[GST with PSI]

She sounds great!!! Also, loving the oil gauge mod into the cluster.

Thanks!

There's still room for improvement. I still haven't even set the base timing yet, or messed with the BISS. I have some idle tuning to do, and a few things here and there before it's running perfect. Stay tuned for updates!

 

[iceguru1114]

Thank you, I really appreciate the positive feedback. How's your Galant coming along? Last I saw the motor was looking pretty much done.

Well, I empathize with your statements about lack of time and money, . I just sold my Rex so money is now more available and I'm also making it a point to make more garage time for myself... trying to strike a balance there that doesn't involve getting dumped by my girlfriend.

At any rate, I'm currently making provisions for custom PCV system (should have some new stuff I think people will like) and evaluating on-engine sensors. I also finally got a donor car, put FUBAR on build stands, and am ready to start chassis prep work as soon as I finish upgrading some garage equipment I need for that job.

While I'm waiting to find the right deal for garage equipment, I'm working on fixing the front wing to the FSAE car pictured in my thread... destroyed one of the elements at a recent autox in pursuit of FTD.

It's good to see you making progress, though, it makes me want to get my ass into gear to get FUBAR on the road.

 

[GST with PSI]

The motor was running great, so I decided to do a little tuning. I needed to start with adding some fuel, since my WB was reading around a point too lean. I set my knock light to two counts, and made a pull. The car pulled clean to redline, with no knock. I zeroed out the boost controller, so the car was on waste gate pressure, which ended up topping out right at 17 psi. Even at 17 psi, my first impression was the 68HTA wanted to pull way past redline, whereas the 16G variants I've had on the car previously would choke up top and drop off peak boost. The car felt really strong, and I was super happy with how it was running.

That's when I had a little hiccup. Mistake #1, not paying attention to the dash...

Next thing I know, the car dies, and I coast to a stop. I cranked it over, no compression.

So, I towed it home and roll the motor over by hand. The cams line up perfect, but the crank is way off. I pull the head, and as expected, I got 8 bent valves out of the deal. Cool. Here are some pics of the carnage.

The pistons were alright. I cleaned them up a bit, and said f*** it, since at this point I had nothing to lose.

Then, pulled a spare head off the shelf and swapped it in.

I couldn't source an HKS intake cam on short notice, so I decided to swap a stock set back in. Jesus, I forgot how good the car idled before I swapped in the 272s! It purrs like a kitten.

Anyways, after a short hiatus after the long hiatus, the car is back in action.

Next up, making the swap back to E85, and seeing what the 68HTA is capable of.

 

[smills1840]

Damn, talk about a shitty turn of events. Glad to see you worked it out though! Looking forward to updates on the 68hta.

 

[miliman13]

What so you mean by the " dash " ?
What exactly occurred..

 

[OGDSM1989]

I am also interested .. did it jump time , if so ...how so and why? Glad to hear that it turned out okay and you had a spare head layin' around.

 

[19gsx91]

In the picture he was showing 10.9 counts of knock, FWIW the car is very clean and looks amazing, hopefully it'll be back together and running soon!

 

[GST with PSI]

By "dash" I mean I should have been watching the CEL warning me that the car was detonating.

I can't wrap my head around what happened. I suppose PTV clearance could have been an issue. Admittedly, I didn't check it when I assembled the motor. In addition, my intake cam wound up being 4 degrees advanced after I degreed the cams, so whatever the PTV clearance was inevitably got reduced. Even if that was the case though, I don't see how the car can run perfectly one minute, and eat all 8 intake valves the next. If PTV clearance was the issue, I'd think it would have bent all 8 valves on first start.

Regarding the timing, I'm positive the car was perfectly in time, and the belt was tensioned properly. I can say that confidently because A) I've done more 4G63 timing belt jobs than I can count and B) I verified it was good when I degreed the camshafts. There were no failed timing components, and nothing to suggest something failed and caused the belt to lose tension. Hell, even after the valves got bent, the belt was still tensioned perfectly. And, if the belt lost tension I think the cams would have been out of phase as well as the crank. But, when I lined up the marks after the incident, the cams were still in time but the crank was out.

There's only one event that sticks out between the car running fine and the valves getting bent, which was a shit ton of knock. How that causes what happened, I have no idea. All I know is it was good before then, which leads me to believe the detonation either caused a problem, or exacerbated an existing one. Those are pretty much all the facts I know, which I fully admit, still don't add up to bent valves.

Taking what I've outline above into consideration, I'd appreciate everyone's input. I'd would just be nice to know what happened at this point. This forced me to go back to stock cams in lieu of being able to find a replacement HKS unit on short notice, and honestly, I like driving the car a million times better now. Much like I despise my welded diff because of how it kills driveability, I'm feeling much of the same way about the HKS 272s...

...I'm wondering if the natural willingness to sacrifice performance for driveability is the true sign of getting old

I know for damn sure if this car was used for a DD and didn't sit in the garage 99% of the time, I'd get rid of both.

The car is currently back up and running great. I drove it around for about an hour today without any issues.

 

[miliman13]

Yikes.. Well as you may know I'm still building. And I won't be relying on the notches for correct mechanical timing, instead I'll be using travel dial gauges to calculate actual vs expected.
I fear the probability of such an event to much.
It's difficult to say, but your knock may have propelled your rotating assembly out of phase.. Yes its a stretch but how else do you account for mechanical disproportional timing? Unless you floated? What RPM were you in again? If at the 4.5k range I see then perhaps back to my first hypothesis.




Or............

Your ptv clearance was within spec not accounting for thermal expansion... Maybe you heated enough to expand past limit.