ECMlink Break-up and idle issues

[Chaoticdopey]

1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks?
Tested up to 35psi with no leaks

2). Verified mechanical timing?
Yes
3). Verified base timing?
Yes
4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil: Stock Brand New
Wire brand and Age: NGK 3 months old
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: BR8ES Gapped at .022

5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1:150
Cylinder 2:150
Cylinder 3:150
Cylinder 4:147

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch:Stock
Throttle Cable: Non Cruise
TPS: Calibrated
BISS: Stock

7). Compression ratio
8.5:1 Ross Pistons
8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
No
9). Any DTC/CEL codes?

10). Electrical system
Car off (not running):12.5v
Car running:13.9v

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure:42lbs
Injector Size (cc/min):1050 FIC

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand:Bosch
Calibration Date:None

13). Type of fuel
Type: E85
Percent of Ethanol: 77.6

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos?
No

Car was tuned at RRE, They checked timing and it idled weird but made power perfectly fine, They installed a AEM 360 Fuel pump and an Ingersol Rand Boost Solenoid controlled by ECMLink. I take it for a spin around the block and all is well, car drove nice and made tons of power, on the second pass on the street the c clip holding the compressor housing on fell of and killed the turbo and i lost all boost, car was still running fine back to the shop..

Over a month later i get the turbo back, I install it and clean the injectors, also had a bad oil leak so i installed a new oil pan, hooked everything back up and it runs like shit but would make boost and 2 step fine.

I re-loaded the tune from RRE exactly how i was told to.
QUOTE From Sam at RRE in Email

"Open up whichever Tune I sent, i usually label it e85 or 91 using the latest version of the DSMlink Software. http://www.ecmtuning.com/downloads/prerelease/ecmlink_3_33_115_win32.exe. I usually send it as a Log file, right click anywhere on the graph, You'll see two options "Ecu Config from Log" and "Direct Access from Log", youll want to open both of those, and click "Save all to ECU" on the bottom left of the screen on both the Direct Access data and the ECU config data. Do this all while the Key is in the On position, but engine not running."

After doing that it still idled on 2 cylinders, i could pull plugs from cylinder 2 and 3 with no idle change, but when throttle is applied it runs on all 4. so i swap out the injectors to 1-4 from 2-3 with the same result. so i check and see if maybe its a faulty PT with the same result, i then changed both Coil packs with brand new ones, nothing changes.

Ive checked all the wiring and everything is good and hooked up.

Ive cleaned the TB and its functioning fine, and also pulled the the piping from the intercooler off today and washed it all as there was some oil in it. Car vents to atmosphere and is Running on speed density with a 3 bar omni map sensor, a GM IAT, and a GM Flex fuel sensor.

When i drive around the block i can get to about 3k rpm before it starts bucking and back firing.

I will include the last log i have as my laptop is in a different city right now, i have fixed the TPS being at 5% idle since then but do not have my log.

Full Car Specs.
Ross 8.5:1 Pistons
Shot Peened Rods
ACL Race Rod and Main Bearings
All ARP Hardware
FP Green
FIC 1050cc Injectors
Omni 3 Bar Map
GM IAT
GM Flex Sensor
ECMLink V3 Full
Speed Density
Crower 272 Cams




How it ran Before the the turbo blew

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

How it ran After the turbo blew

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Take a screw driver to injector 2 an 3 and listen for clicking (with your ear)
Ive seen brittle wiring cause injectors to intermididly cut in/out

How many ohms do you get with each injector?
I would also take a multimeter to check to see how much voltage you get at the injector harness

You can also use the continuity option on your DMM to check for stuck closed injectors

Have you tried swapping the injectors around?
If so look for CRACKED pintle covers
They can cause a bad spray

Are they high or low impendence?

Have you tried swapping power transisters ?
Did you use a timing light to check ignition timing?
Adjust accordinly with the cas

Your car should hear change (mine almost dies)when u pull the injectors plugs

Another thing you can do check out your ecu injector output wires 1-4 at the plug

 

[GST with PSI]

A few questions:

1) Was the compression test done after the turbo was rebuilt/installed?
2) When's the last time you checked your base and mechanical timing?
3) Stupid check, but have you verified the spark plug wires are on in the correct order?


For the tune...

I've always heard good things about RRE, but the tune I'm looking at in the "round the block test" log is pretty far off, IMO. You saying this is the tune you left RRE with?

For starters, the octane tables are too rich for my liking, especially the OpenLoopMaxOct table. The MaxOct table should be used when your flexfuel sensor sees over 70% ethanol according to the tune (so basically should reflect an E85 tune), and is set really rich for E85. The MinOct table (the one that would be used for pump) is also on the rich side. The MinOct table (pump gas table) could be considered conservative, but the MaxOct table (E85 table) is simply set too rich.

Second, the timing and fuel tables in the ECU config are being used to add timing and fuel. This is just completely wrong. These tables should only be used to make adjustments on the fly (for example, between pulls) when dialing in the tune. Once you get the tune dialed in, these tables should be zeroed out, and permanent changes to the timing and fuel DA tables should be made. Take a look at the timing tab in the 4,000 RPM range. Your tuner is pulling 5 degrees of timing across the board @ 4K RPM. So, take that number and go subtract it from your DA timing table...Yeah, it's jacked. You're basically running 4 degrees of peak timing at 4k RPM at WOT. That's literally a recipe for zero power.

The SD table looks pretty good overall, but how it looks and how the car performs because of how it looks are two separate things. I'd ask to see a 3rd gear pull, but it sounds like that's not in the cards right now.

I'd say to start, triple check for mechanical issues, and post a current cruise/idle log.

 

[Chaoticdopey]

Take a screw driver to injector 2 an 3 and listen for clicking (with your ear)
Ive seen brittle wiring cause injectors to intermididly cut in/out

How many ohms do you get with each injector?
I would also take a multimeter to check to see how much voltage you get at the injector harness

You can also use the continuity option on your DMM to check for stuck closed injectors

Have you tried swapping the injectors around?
If so look for CRACKED pintle covers
They can cause a bad spray

Are they high or low impendence?

Have you tried swapping power transisters ?
Did you use a timing light to check ignition timing?
Adjust accordinly with the cas

Your car should hear change (mine almost dies)when u pull the injectors plugs

Another thing you can do check out your ecu injector output wires 1-4 at the plug

Ive swapped all the injectors, even borrowed my buddies 1050s, no change, they are all firing, they are low impedance, ive changed the power transistor with a known working one, and also bought a brand new coil pack.

A few questions:

1) Was the compression test done after the turbo was rebuilt/installed?
2) When's the last time you checked your base and mechanical timing?
3) Stupid check, but have you verified the spark plug wires are on in the correct order?


For the tune...

I've always heard good things about RRE, but the tune I'm looking at in the "round the block test" log is pretty far off, IMO. You saying this is the tune you left RRE with?

For starters, the octane tables are too rich for my liking, especially the OpenLoopMaxOct table. The MaxOct table should be used when your flexfuel sensor sees over 70% ethanol according to the tune (so basically should reflect an E85 tune), and is set really rich for E85. The MinOct table (the one that would be used for pump) is also on the rich side. The MinOct table (pump gas table) could be considered conservative, but the MaxOct table (E85 table) is simply set too rich.

Second, the timing and fuel tables in the ECU config are being used to add timing and fuel. This is just completely wrong. These tables should only be used to make adjustments on the fly (for example, between pulls) when dialing in the tune. Once you get the tune dialed in, these tables should be zeroed out, and permanent changes to the timing and fuel DA tables should be made. Take a look at the timing tab in the 4,000 RPM range. Your tuner is pulling 5 degrees of timing across the board @ 4K RPM. So, take that number and go subtract it from your DA timing table...Yeah, it's jacked. You're basically running 4 degrees of peak timing at 4k RPM at WOT. That's literally a recipe for zero power.

The SD table looks pretty good overall, but how it looks and how the car performs because of how it looks are two separate things. I'd ask to see a 3rd gear pull, but it sounds like that's not in the cards right now.

I'd say to start, triple check for mechanical issues, and post a current cruise/idle log.

I dont know how to check the base or mechanical timing thats why i had RRE do it. spark plugs are in the correct order, and i did the compression test after the last video i made, so maybe a week ago and it was fine, i even swapped new spark plugs

 

[Tanro]

So you put on a new coil pack. Did you take the coil pack back and swap it for another new one yet? Or at least ohm it out to make sure it has enough resistance?

 

[Chaoticdopey]

So you put on a new coil pack. Did you take the coil pack back and swap it for another new one yet? Or at least ohm it out to make sure it has enough resistance?

I swapped it with my friends and same thing

 

[Tanro]

Have you checked and/or calibrated the TPS? And verifid operation of the Idle Switch?

 

[Chaoticdopey]

Have you checked and/or calibrated the TPS?

Yes its at 0% idle and i slowly watched it go up till i hit full throttle 100%

 

[Tanro]

Yes its at 0% idle and i slowly watched it go up till i hit full throttle 100%

I forgot about the ISS on 1st gens, is the Idle Set Switch working?

I dunno. I've been dealing with a similar issues, mainly when its cold. One of my coils is trashed. All of my backups are worse...

 

[GST with PSI]

If I had to guess there's a mechanic issue somewhere.

The tune needs work too, but I don't think it's your issue, currently.

Have you ever pulled the ECU to inspect the board?