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ECMlink Attempting to understand ECMlink

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miliman13

10+ Year Contributor
1,957
276
Jan 1, 2011
tampa, Florida
ok, i have no experience with link, I read, and watched the ECM tutorials. at this moment i only have one question, how do i lean out my mixture ? i dialed in my values, but i'm very ,very rich, (10 on my AEM Gauge) im just looking to lean out to get a decent idle (14-15), Then later ill work on leaning out while the car is driving.

should i adjust from the [fuel] tab in dsm-link or [Maf-comp] tab?
Thanks, please dont hurt me im learning.:sneaky:

I also want to mention, that i meet the list required prior to coming to this thread.
 
The ECMLink tutorial literally holds you by the hand and walks you through idle/cruise tuning AFR's.

http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos/fueltrim.html

Not trying to sound rude but that video is better than ANYTHING one of us could try to explain. Once you get your idle tuned (watching that demo as many times as you need) post a log of it idling for ~60 seconds completely warmed up (180*+ coolant temps).

The FUEL tab with the sliders only affects WOT and is an old school way of tuning, once you get into WOT you'll play with your OLMaxOct direct access tables and the MAFComp sliders to tune AFR's. Same with the timing, the sliders are an old school way of tuning (works fine but not much resolution) so you'd use the TmgMaxOct direct access table to tune it.

:dsm:
 
very informative videos,I have watched all of the ones available on the ECM page,
in that video he makes adjustments in the MAF-COMP tab, to smooth out his combined FT.
But im trying to adjust so my A/F mixture is better than were it sits now. I will post up a log soon since i know it's expected, but i wanted to try and make adjustments, just did not know were to start.
 
At idle/cruise your narrowband o2 sensor (front o2) controls fuel trims because your in closedloop fuel control. If you have no front o2 sensor you need to simulate it with your WB sensor using ECMLinks WB sim settings after you wire in the sensor to the ECU.

:dsm:
 
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this is what i have for mods in the fuel system, , DW300 fuel pump, FueLab filter and AFPR and Clinic 750cc's
 
Your front o2 is not cycling and it has locked your car in open loop. You need to get this worked out first.

You'll also want to smooth out the transitions of your MAF Comp sliders. Having a jump from -10 to -2 isn't ideal. Shoot to have as smooth of a curve as you can with the transition value differences between two dots being as low as you can get them while still keeping the tune in check.

Also, please reset your fuel DA tables back to factory. The ones you have in there are no good.


I'll let Corey fill you in on how to properly set up the AEM unit as I try to stay away from those LOL
 
yeah i did notice the Fo2 is not running wild the way it should, i clicked on/off the open loop and still i did not see any difference. When you say it locked the car , what do you mean by this, and how do i go about resolving it ?

And what is fuel DA ?
{side note}, I have never touched this prior to today, so what you're seeing is previous attempts by others to set a map.
 
yeah i did notice the Fo2 is not running wild the way it should, i clicked on/off the open loop and still i did not see any difference. When you say it locked the car , what do you mean by this, and how do i go about resolving it ?

There are four conditions that could possibly kick the car out of closed loop and into open loop, or even prevent it from going into closed loop shortly after start up. You can read about them here.
fueltrimupdatepoints [ECMTuning - wiki]

Because your front o2 didn't cycle for over 128 seconds, this forced the ECU to lock itself in open loop.


And what is fuel DA ?
{side note}, I have never touched this prior to today, so what you're seeing is previous attempts by others to set a map.

DA = direct access. These are the tables you get to by clicking on the "Direct access" button at the bottom of the log page. Go look at the OpenLoopMaxOct and MinOct tables. Click the black double arrow icon above them both (resetting them back to factory maps) and then click the "Copy all to ECU" button in the bottom left of the screen.
 
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ok, ill do some more reading, and return with more info.

"2G Open loop mode (any one true)

Throttle position too high (varies by RPM)
Airflow too low (units are tricky, but it's very low)
Coolant temp < 51F
Coolant temp > 228F
The O2 sensor did not switch around 0.5v for over 128 seconds while running in closed loop mode. In that case, the ECU locks itself in open loop mode.
All of the following have to be true for a full 5 seconds. If any single one is not true even for a millisecond, the timer starts over and trends in STFT will *not* be moved into LTFT.


i may be wrong, but i dont see this is viable reasons for me to be stuck in open loop

any one else want to throw in your 2 pennies
 
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Your front o2 is not cycling and it has locked your car in open loop. You need to get this worked out first.

You'll also want to smooth out the transitions of your MAF Comp sliders. Having a jump from -10 to -2 isn't ideal. Shoot to have as smooth of a curve as you can with the transition value differences between two dots being as low as you can get them while still keeping the tune in check.

Also, please reset your fuel DA tables back to factory. The ones you have in there are no good.


I'll let Corey fill you in on how to properly set up the AEM unit as I try to stay away from those LOL

ok, ill do some more reading, and return with more info.

"2G Open loop mode (any one true)

Throttle position too high (varies by RPM)
Airflow too low (units are tricky, but it's very low)
Coolant temp < 51F
Coolant temp > 228F
The O2 sensor did not switch around 0.5v for over 128 seconds while running in closed loop mode. In that case, the ECU locks itself in open loop mode.
All of the following have to be true for a full 5 seconds. If any single one is not true even for a millisecond, the timer starts over and trends in STFT will *not* be moved into LTFT.


i may be wrong, but i dont see this is viable reasons for me to be stuck in open loop

any one else want to throw in your 2 pennies
There is a coincidence
 
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The front o2 sensor signal is there, your MAFComp table is 'off' you're running rich and forcing it to stay in OL.

The demo I linked you to tells you leave injector deadtime at 0 (yours is at 315) and it says to tune AirflowPerRev to .25 using the MAFComp sliders and yours is at .50. If you also paid close attention to that demo he tells you not to have significant jumps from one point to the other in the MAFComp table, smooth them out. Yours are all over the place...

Ignore AFR's and TRUST the video, they will line-up to 14.7:1 by adjusting the sliders and deadtime to get CombinedFT and AirflowPerRev where it needs to be. Your AFR's are so jacked up right now the front o2 sensor can't swing around stoich...

To get you in the ballpark, you'll probably need to get pretty aggressive on the 0-50-100Hz MAFComp sliders, like -25%+.

:dsm:
 
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction, i remember the video did mention what your saying. Ill zero everything back down (reset ecu) and start again from there, thanks , i will return once i have placed deadtime at zero, and smoothed things out..

And again i appreciate the patience, Im trying to pick up something alien to me.:)
 
ok im back, with no leaks , and timed at 5^ BTDC with a timing light, but on my live stream im showing 17 degress, does this change by adjusting fuel or maf sliders ?
i seen usually its alot closer to 5 BTDC mines seems off.
Did you ground the timing connector checkbx in the misc tab in ink? Motor warm running to operating temp ?
 
so i have my A/F Ratio around 14.7, by playing with dead time and maf sliders, but im trying to achieve .25 for Air flow per rev, and to even get around .35 i have to dramatically adjust my sliders as you can see in the pics, if i go lower i just get way to lean. and im running out of gas,
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Did you ground the timing connector checkbx in the misc tab in ink? Motor warm running to operating temp ?

im going to say NO, since i do not know what you are talking about :confused:

Also, for the sake of disclosure ,
this is what i have.

{air}
90 N/T Throttle body
3" vsrFmiC

{Spark}
ngk7's mds 8.5 plugs

{head}
Head BC1000 /272's
revised 3G lifters/ BC springs/retainers
ported 6 bolt head.

{block}
85.5 Wiseco 9:1 Comp
STD Stroke manley rods
6 bolt block.

{turbo}
60 trim/tdho4 garret w/T3 hotside.

{fuel}
750cc clinics , fuel lab, filter and afpr
E-93 Dw300 Fuel pump.

* everything else is stock.*

"Note i have PERFECT mechanical timing.
Thanks for reading.
 
There is a connector n the firewall that has to be grounded in order to set ignition timing to 5 btdc. Dsmlink has an easier way by clicking a checkbox in the Misc tab, while the motor is running. Once you un ground the checkbox and your done timing, you will see on live stream you will be around 9-12 timing.
Also can you post up a log for us, you have good size injectors, i dont think you are running ut of fuel yet
 
You should not have to adjust MAF Comp sliders that much. If you do, you've got an issue somewhere else in your system.

You need to check the ground timing box before checking it with a light.

You are right, i should not have to adjust, - how else do i get my airper rev at .25
? dropping them works but only a lill,
 
just to make sure with ignition on and dsmlink stream running , does i say 5 degrees ? Since you have a 2gb the Cas is not adjustable to get it precise. Once you unground the timing checkbox and run motor, timing will oscillate like stated above. Start from scratch or everyhing will be way off when tuning later on.
 
If your question of "Does it say 5*?" is for what link is displaying with the car warmed up and the timing ground box checked, it will always say 5* no matter what is happening in the engine. What needs to be checked is the actual timing with a light. As you mentioned, the 2gb CAS offers no adjustability, so if it is not reading right, you've got another issue (bad CAS, bad harmonic damper, something else).
 
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