2g pedal "pump up"

[L2RTSiAWD]

I'm having the issue descibed here.

taken from RRE's page

2G Pedal "Pump Up"
If you are fighting an inconsistent pedal adjustment in a 2G, adjust the upper pedal stop adjuster so that you gain additional free play at the top of the pedal travel. If this is your problem, you will notice that the pedal suddenly gets very tight and the release point will suddenly move up a lot, this is the cause.

I've never adjusted the "upper pedal stop adjuster" My question is do you loosen it or tighten it? I can't tell from the pics and I searched and didn't get a thread that told you specifically how to adjust it.


TIA.

 

[Terror Rising]

Adjust it so your pedal can come out further.

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

Adjust it so your pedal can come out further.

So if I get you right and I look at this pic

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I need to loosen that upper adjuster nut a little.

 

[Terror Rising]

That's correct. It frees up some extra pedal travel so your master will bleed the building pressure.

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

That's correct. It frees up some extra pedal travel so your master will bleed the building pressure.

Thanks alot. Man I'm still such newbie sometimes.

 

[heavyD]

I wonder if my Eclipse has this problem. The pedal feel is pretty stiff but when I took my car in for an out of province inspection the mechanic must have done something as the pedal pressure after was very nice and easy. About a month later it went stiff again.

 

[97TSIAWD]

Thanks alot. Man I'm still such newbie sometimes.

Did you give yourself about an inch of slack on the pedal before it starts to engage? I found adjusting the pedal to be very sensitive. I had Shep adjust it once so that my shifts felt better, then adjusted it myself and accidently lost all slack in the pedal which means it is not disengaging all the way. I fixed it at the track though.

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

Did you give yourself about an inch of slack on the pedal before it starts to engage? I found adjusting the pedal to be very sensitive. I had Shep adjust it once so that my shifts felt better, then adjusted it myself and accidently lost all slack in the pedal which means it is not disengaging all the way. I fixed it at the track though.

After I push in the clutch and shift into gear it engages really close to the top and after it's engaged it only travels maybe 1 or 2 inches more before it's all the way at the top. I only need to push it in very little to shift gears.

 

[TargeT]

thats my secret to low ET's in my cobra

clutch adjustment is crucial to quick shifts

 

[97TSIAWD]

After I push in the clutch and shift into gear it engages really close to the top and after it's engaged it only travels maybe 1 or 2 inches more before it's all the way at the top. I only need to push it in very little to shift gears.

Well basically you can adjust it as you see fit, but I noticed that anything less than that inch and I have difficulties. I sit with the car off and push my hand on the pedal and watch it go down about an inch till I feel it grab, with a 2600lb clutch you can tell very easy where it engages. I thought I had adjusted this out a little before, and it worked for a while but when I was driving suddenly the clutch seemed to catch right away ( I was able to shift with very little pedal pressure) and the pedal would come up but still be grabbing ( didn't know until I got on the ground and tried to push it with my hand, no free play up top). So I had to readjust it for that one inch again. One thing Shep told me is you need to have the free play up top, if not your clutch is not disengaging all the way which isn't good.

 

[97TSIAWD]

thats my secret to low ET's in my cobra

clutch adjustment is crucial to quick shifts

Being a good driver helps more.

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

See I want to adjust for more than that inch.

I want to adjust it so after it engages I get more travel before the clutch pedal gets to the top. Let me make a cheesy diagram

How it is now:

Top
-
-(engages here)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Bottom


How I want it :

Top
-
-
-
-
-(engages here)
-
-
-
-
Bottom

 

[TargeT]

I spent about 125 dollars to have my clutch engage where yours currently does

here's how i do my power shifts

I slam my foot to the fire wall (clutch) just as i start to press the clutch pedal i start to move the gear selector, it works out to where when the clutch dis engages i'm almost forcing the transmission out of gear and as soon as my foot touches the firewall i jerk it back up, but im slaming into gear the whole time & i never miss a shift this way

i call it "stabing the clutch"

of course my foot never leaves the ground on the gas pedal, I actualy use it for leverage to get a faster shift /stab (I break gas pedals this way.. hehe)


its a little weird to drive this way around town, but its the best set up and takes a while to get adjusted right,, you've already got that done though!


but, if you REALLY want to change it, adjust the fire wall one (slave cylender rod) by screwing it further in, that will move the engagement point closer to the fire wall ( i think its in anway, ) www.roadraceengineering.com has a write up on it

 

[97TSIAWD]

See I want to adjust for more than that inch.

I want to adjust it so after it engages I get more travel before the clutch pedal gets to the top. Let me make a cheesy diagram

How it is now:

Top
-
-(engages here)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Bottom


How I want it :

Top
-
-
-
-
-(engages here)
-
-
-
-
Bottom

Well, yes I guess you could move the engagment point that far down. I don't remember which way to turn the adjuster but try both ways until you get it going the way you want. Not sure if you can take it that far down, as in if the bolt length gives that much room, but if it does I don't see why you couldn't make it engage more in the middle?

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

Ya I just want it down a little farther. Maybe not even as much as the diagrarm but a little bit more.

 

[1fast97gsx]

I'm trying to figure this out as well. Do you just loosen the nut and then take the connector on the end and turn it out and then tighten the nut again? Does that make sense? I'm guessing that's the clutch switch on the back of the upper adjustment?

 

[Terror Rising]

What you have to do is loosen the lock nut, rotate the rod depending on which direction you want your engagement to go, then lock it back down. It takes some trial and error to get it exactly where you want it. Don't go crazy right off the bat because one turn of that rod is a lot in pedal travel. Good luck.

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

Thanks for the info, I looked at over weekend but didn't a get a chance to try and work on it. Since I won't really by driving it at all this week, I'll probably try and adjust it this weekend.

 

[1fast97gsx]

I played with mine and got it how I like it but after parking the car overnight and getting in the next day the pedal is really soft and the engagement point moves to the floor. I have to drive it for about 15 minutes or so and it slowly stiffens up and the engagement point goes back to where I want it. I started a thread on this but I though maybe someone watching this thread could help out. I have the restrictor removed in the slave cylinder ... maybe that's the cause? I have NO leaks.

 

[karbon]

After I push in the clutch and shift into gear it engages really close to the top and after it's engaged it only travels maybe 1 or 2 inches more before it's all the way at the top. I only need to push it in very little to shift gears.

That's VERY VERY bad. You're going to blow the seals on your master cylinder in no time. Your adjustment rod need to be screwed out (counter-clockwise if I'm remembering it right) to lower the engagement and in to raise it (think of it in terms of how soon the plunger in the master cylinder contacts the fluid feed hole). The way I've found to properly adjust the clutch, and it works every time, is just to screw the rear stop (cruise) switch as far back as it will go until the pedal is resting on the bracket. Then adjust the rod into the master cylinder so that I feel it fully disengage the clutch a couple inches of travel off the floor. (About 12.5" of total pedal travel). Confirm this by starting the car, pushing the pedal in and sticking it into first (if it grinds, you need to adjust in more), then slowly letting off and note at what point the car starts to move. After you have that set, lock the adjustment rod in place, then simply screw the clutch switch in until the clutch pedal is just as high as the brake pedal. You SHOULD be good. If you start getting pump-up again, while it's pumped up, unscrew the clutch switch until you hear the pressure exit the cylinder, then lock it right there and you'll be fine.

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

Ya I'm not going to be driving it at all this week so I was planning on adjusting it this weekend.

Thanks for all the suggestions and instructions.