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GSXChicky8

10+ Year Contributor
39
1
Jun 14, 2009
Lancaster, Pennsylvania
Hey whats up guys. My name is Nichole but I go by Domino. I've been on here for awhile but then I forgot I was on here LOL. So now I am finally introducing myself.

I have a 1998 awd gsx. It's mint black. If any of you are friends or know the member "RawrImAMonster" I bought it off him. I bought her last October. And in under a year I've done a full six bolt swap and some mods which I will list. I love DSMS, I love the look of them and I will never go back. LOL DSM for life! :hellyeah:

motor mods-
-precision 780 injectors
-Garett dual Ball Bearing 60-1 with mitsu turbine housing (60lbs/min) 550HP Turbonetics Compressor Cover.
and modified o2 housing with a tial 38mm tial wastegate mounted
-HKS 272/264 cams
-sfp manifold
-Dejon short route FMIC
-tial 50mm BOV
-2600 act clucth w/ 6 puck disc and light weight fidanza flywheel
-Polyurthane motor mounts
-ARP headstuds
-HKS timing belt
-Mishimoto Alum. rad.
-Walbro 255 fuel pump
-aeromoative fpr

Suspension-
H&R lowering springs with KYB struts

for tuning wise...
- innovation wide band and gage
-dsm link V3
-autometer cobalt boost and egt gages

exterior-
ADR wheels-17s
Custom Plate
8k HIDs

Interior-
Alpine headunit
Not sure what kind (guy before me put em in) but upgraded speakers front and back
-Greddy weighted shifter knob
-greddy turbo timer
-after market shifter (again guy before the guy i got it off of put it in not sure what it is) bolted to the floor as well.



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LOL this might be what everyone goes OHHHHH that 2g pic LOL.
"RawrImAMonster" took. aka old owner.
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Sweet ass car! I checked out the mods, and it must be a real treat to drive. What have you done, vs what it already had when you got it?

LOL thanks man. It was all stock when I got it. It was a stock seven bolt w/ a shot ebay 16g LOL. Then my man was drivin down the road and cyl. 3 rod just snapped and put a hole in the front of the block, back of the block, took out the starter, and killed the oil pan LOL. So then we did the full six bolt swap in 2 weeks runnin and all. haha. All the mods listed now is what is in the car now haha. The only shitty part is my pte 60-1 oil seal is shot. :-/ It still spools and runs hard and great but smokes you out. hahahha. I am going to save up to get a gt35R. LOL.
 
Haven't gotten to the track yet sadly LOL. I dont have a job right now so I cant afford to spend the extra money on gas and what not and I still need to have the car tuned b/c V3 is very confusing LOL.
 
and yes the turbo is rebuildable but im not wasting the money. That turbo when I got it had a fresh brand new rebuild and I put it on my talon for not even 3 months then I rolled my talon and broke my neck. Then I put it on this car. Doesn't even have 1000 miles on it and its shot. Its 500 dollars to get it redone. I really don't wanna waste the money knowing that theres not even a 1000 miles on it and its shot ya know?
 
haha welcome to introducing yourself after so long when u getting that turbo fixed LOL? you smoked up sheetz last week pretty good that was funny we all knew where you were when we couldnt see you
 
haha welcome to introducing yourself after so long when u getting that turbo fixed LOL? you smoked up sheetz last week pretty good that was funny we all knew where you were when we couldnt see you

hahahahaha. Yeaahhh I finally got around to it. Yeah knowww. hahaha. Um I dont plan on fixing the turbo LOL. I plan on getting a GT35R. Its the same compressed wheel as what is in mine and its ball barriged and it will spool a lot smoother. hahaha. But unfortantley for ya'll the turbo is already promised to someone LOL. Sorry.:sosad: haha. But dude you shoulda went to the meet up in Harrisburg! you get off of exit 2 Sw-something and turn right and turn left into target and all the ppl are there. There are SOOO many ppl there! And theyre all pretty chill and will talk to ya and stuff LOL.
 
aww damn hit me up next time fabian and arman and i will roll up im sure pm me and ill give u my cell number
 
The only shitty part is my pte 60-1 oil seal is shot. :-/ It still spools and runs hard and great but smokes you out.
Try installing a .075" (or something close) restrictor in the oil supply line and see if your smokeshow disappears.

Only two things cause a turbo to smoke with no shaft play- too much incoming oil pressure, or too small of an oil drain oriface (possibly a kinked/poorly routed drain line as well).

By the way....if it doesn't have a 60-1 compressor anymore, then it's not a 60-1. Depending on the size of the turbine, it may be something like a PTE 6152E. :thumb:

Doesn't even have 1000 miles on it and its shot. Its 500 dollars to get it redone. I really don't wanna waste the money knowing that theres not even a 1000 miles on it and its shot ya know?
Ah, the calling card of a Garrett. I wonder when people will stop putting Garrett turbos on their cars knowing how picky their oiling is?

If the smoking persists after installing the restrictor, I can rebuild your turbo for a very good price....not anywhere near $500. Not even near half that price, actually.


Here's a PTE SC6152S I recently rebuilt for a customer...basically a journal bearing GT35R. If your turbo has the wheel size you're claiming, the compressor will look something like this (but without the 4" inlet):
 

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Try installing a .075" (or something close) restrictor in the oil supply line and see if your smokeshow disappears.

Only two things cause a turbo to smoke with no shaft play- too much incoming oil pressure, or too small of an oil drain oriface (possibly a kinked/poorly routed drain line as well).

By the way....if it doesn't have a 60-1 compressor anymore, then it's not a 60-1. Depending on the size of the turbine, it may be something like a PTE 6152E. :thumb:


Ah, the calling card of a Garrett. I wonder when people will stop putting Garrett turbos on their cars knowing how picky their oiling is?

If the smoking persists after installing the restrictor, I can rebuild your turbo for a very good price....not anywhere near $500. Not even near half that price, actually.


Here's a PTE SC6152S I recently rebuilt for a customer...basically a journal bearing GT35R. If your turbo has the wheel size you're claiming, the compressor will look something like this (but without the 4" inlet):



The guy who had it before me a good friend bought it new. The oil seal went out on him and he got it rebuilt by bosch or however u spell it and they put the compressed wheel in it. The oil seal is deff. shot. It has some shaft play. I dont feel like rebuilding a turbo that doesnt even have 1000 miles on it and it went shot. I dont care for it to happen again LOL. I dont have a lot of money esp right now cos i dont have a job and will be sadly parking the car soon. But thank you for the offer. The turbo I have now is not ball barring. I would like the GT35R b/c it is ball barring and it will spool a lot smoother then this one.

And what do you mean by how picky their oiling is?
 
The guy who had it before me a good friend bought it new. The oil seal went out on him and he got it rebuilt by bosch or however u spell it and they put the compressed wheel in it. The oil seal is deff. shot.
Sounds to me like this turbo has been getting too much oil pressure or had some type of drainage issue it's entire life. Be sure to check your oil drain line to make sure it's not kinked or pinched....this is the most common way for a turbo to fail.

I dont feel like rebuilding a turbo that doesnt even have 1000 miles on it and it went shot. I dont care for it to happen again.
You can't blame the turbo itself for installation error. Something is either giving the turbo too much or too little oil pressure, or possibly prohibiting it from draining properly. Just because it stopped smoking for now doesn't mean there's no damage done- if there's shaft play, I'd stop driving the car immediately before you ruin the turbo to the point where it cannot be rebuilt.

It is proven that excessive wheel size makes these turbos unreliable, especially in the thrust system....however, this issue only arises when you're raping a turbo like this for all it's worth (30+ psi).

I would like the GT35R b/c it is ball barring and it will spool a lot smoother then this one.
Believe it or not there are journal bearing turbos in the same frame as the GT35R with very similar spool characteristics. It's proven that while these turbos spool at nearly identical speeds, the only advantage the ball bearing turbo has is transient boost, meaning it picks up quicker between shifts.

There's no doubt in my mind that ball bearing turbos are some of the most durable units on the market, it's their expense that scares me away. You're talking about a $1300 turbo that cannot be rebuilt. Anytime something happens you have to buy a new rotating assembly at a price of $800. So if you suck something in and damage the compressor wheel, $800. If you over-oil the turbo and blow the turbine seal, $800. If you blow your engine and push metal through the turbo, $800. Not a wise turbo choice for someone on a low-budget.

And what do you mean by how picky their oiling is?
Garrett's often require more oil pressure and volume than what the head source on our cars can supply. Because of this most oil line kits available for these turbos are sourced to the filter housing....however in some cases the filter housing oil source can provide too much pressure and volume for the turbo to handle. Too much pressure with the inability to properly drain is just as bad (or worse) for your turbo than not enough pressure. It is because of this that most Garrett and Garrett-design (PTE, Turbonetics, Kinetic) turbos die a premature death.

One of the biggest problems is nobody can really answer the question of how much pressure is required for a Garrett turbo to live a long, richful life. Mitsubishi turbos obviously require very little oil as they're sourced at the head from the factory, and other turbo companies such as Holset will clearly outline their pressure and drain requirements in their service manuals which are available for download direct from their website.



If your next turbo happens to be a GT35R, you'll want to source this turbo at the head and use a .030" ball-bearing restrictor.
 
Thank you for all the usuful advice. =) LOL. I will deff. keep it in mind.

Its all about preference and choice of the turbo you want though you know what I mean? Any turbo can go shot even the best made turbo you can buy. And if i were to get the GT35 I'd also buy an oil resister foir it. But I will still keep the things you said in mind.

I have to park my car at the end of this month unless i get a job first. :/ End of inspection.
 
Its all about preference and choice of the turbo you want though you know what I mean?
So true. At least you have your ducks in a row by having a specific turbo in mind- it makes the rest of your build much easier. Nothing like reading about these guys jumping from a 14B to a GT35R and asking how much boost they can run on stock internals and 550cc injectors.

Any turbo can go shot even the best made turbo you can buy.
Correct, although there are certain brands that are much less troublesome than others. For example, I have no idea what PTE does to their turbos but my customers and friends have more trouble with PTE turbos than any other, including other Garrett hybrids of the same size.

On the other hand, MHI and Holset turbos rarely have issues when they are given the right oil supply and drainage spec. I've already torn down Holset turbos for customers which wanted them freshened-up before they went on their car, and these turbos knowingly came from trucks that had well over 200k on them to find that the journal bearings had no scoring or discoloration and measured the same as a new bearing. That's 200k+ mikes of 30+psi use, and NO WEAR.
 
What do you want to know about them? I'll tell you anything you want to know.

Excessive boost on any turbo pulls the shaft outward and lifts upward when looking at the unit from the compressor side. This loads both the journal bearings and the thrust plate more and more the higher the boost level goes, requiring more oil supply as well as the ability to drain efficiently.

Holset and MHI journal bearing turbos come from the factory with a 360* thrust plate; they're the only brands available for our cars to do so. This means they're more reliable for high-boost use because the thrust collar is supported over it's entire radius instead of having an opening at the bottom:

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MHI turbos like low oil pressure and volume compared to their Garrett and Holset counterparts, although if you're running a MHI turbo hard you'll want to supply it with more pressure to keep the journal and thrust bearings well lubricated. Oil pressure in excess of 75psi is bad for any turbocharger.

The idea of using the head as a source for the oil supply on a stock MHI journal bearing turbo is only true to around 25psi of boost; the concept here was that Mitsubishi never intended the cars to run over 10psi of boost from the factory, so less boost requires less oiling for the turbo. Had they supplied the turbos with a filter housing oil source from the factory, plenty of 14B's would've died at a young age from excessive oil coking.

While the oil supply line is pressurized, the oil drain relies on gravity. Most of the aftermarket oil supply lines available for our cars are a -4AN size, which is roughly 3/16" I.D. This can provide WAY too much oil for any journal bearing turbo if the pressure source is great enough. Obviously you'll want a larger oil drain line if you're adding pressure and volume to your turbo's oil source; otherwise you'd be filling the cartridge with a firehose and allowing it to drain through a drinking straw.

Anytime you want to know specs about turbos ranging from airflow, spool, oil requirements, and so on, feel free to PM me. I'm here to help those that want to learn, and mock the retardeds. :D
 
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