Oil drain tube leaks at oil pan! My bad!

[Archer Fabrications]

okay so i just dropped in my BRND NEW 6 bolt today! YAY!!!!! forged internals, BC272s the whole bit, only BS thing is that when i was putting in the screws to mount the OIL drain tube to the oil pan, i stripped one of the holes..... yeah i EFFED up, and im so pissed about it. i know what needs to be done for a proper fix, re-weld a new nut on the inside of the oil pan... problem is... taking off the oil pan requires taking off the sub frame, the transfer case, and exhaust... not something im too happy about. i probably should just replace the whole oil pan... but my question is, anyone got a good temp fix to get this to stop leaking? i have tried so far, RTV on the screw, i have tried a different thread pitch screw, i am thinking about just tapping a new thread.. but that's also sketchy with getting metal shavings in the oil pan... i have heard Teflon tape isn't going to fix this. anyone got any ideas, id appreciate it.

by the way. in case anyone is curious. this is leaking from the thread of this hole. not the gasket. i also know JB weld could be an option, but i have an FP t3/dsm drain tube on the way... would like to still be able to get rid of the old one without too much more effort..

and i know... im a @#$%ing idiot...

 

[Vladimir]

I had the same problem with my car . I ended up jb welding it. It worked fine for couple month until i got a new oil pan for 80$. It probably would still work right now.

Do be careful with the shaving, you dont want them to go into the pick up tube.

 

[talonDSMerr]

I would go and do it correctly by replacing the oil pan. Take your time and take the exhaust, downpipe, subframe off. Don't chance the metal by tapping new threads, and don't half-ass it by applying globs of RTV or JB weld. You messed up, oh well. Lesson learned. Just go and fix it correctly, you'll be glad you did.

 

[cisco5311]

I would go and do it correctly by replacing the oil pan. Take your time and take the exhaust, downpipe, subframe off. Don't chance the metal by tapping new threads, and don't half-ass it by applying globs of RTV or JB weld. You messed up, oh well. Lesson learned. Just go and fix it correctly, you'll be glad you did.

Agreed, Don't risk damaging your fresh 6bolt build for a cheap oil pan!

 

[bryanwheat]

You don't have to remove the subframe. You only have to remove the downpipe, transfer case, front to rear crossmember and the driver axle. It will take a few hours to do, but is WELL worth it. IF you aren't willing to fix it properly than you just need to sell it or not drive it until you fix it.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

You don't have to remove the sub frame. You only have to remove the down pipe, transfer case, front to rear crossmember and the driver axle. It will take a few hours to do, but is WELL worth it. IF you aren't willing to fix it properly than you just need to sell it or not drive it until you fix it.

sell it?!?! HA #### NO!.... guys im asking for a temp fix here im gonna fix it with in the next 500 miles when i finish the break in and stick on my PTE 6152, i guess i can JB weld the shit out of it for now, and just buy a new oil pan and stick mynew never used T4 FP drain tube on the new one.. deal with it then, you think JB weld would hold for 500 miles? haha i know that JB weld and RTV is not a good fix for this.. but i need something right NOW. I don't have time to pull this stuff out and i got places to go! like work! JB weld the #### out of it sounds like a decent idea at the moment, all suggestions for temp fixes welcomed...

 

[Alex7747]

sell it?!?! HA #### NO!.... guys im asking for a temp fix here im gonna fix it with in the next 500 miles when i finish the break in and stick on my PTE 6152, i guess i can JB weld the shit out of it for now, and just buy a new oil pan and stick my FP drain tube on the new one.. deal with it then, you think JB weld would hold for 500 miles? haha i know that JB weld and RTV is not a good fix for this.. but i need something right NOW. I don't have time to pull this stuff out and i got places to go! like work! JB weld the #### out of it sounds like a decent idea at the moment, all suggestions for temp fixes welcomed...

i think you know what you want to do

 

[jimbob_843]

Jb weld it is! It should hold just fine. The red and black one will anyway.

 

[talonDSMerr]

I would still fix it by changing the oil pan. Get to work the same way you got to work before you had the motor dropped in. You have a brand new, built 6-bolt engine, and you want to JB weld your drain pipe to your oil pan...? Come on now.

If you still want to do it, apparently Vladimir has done it before without hiccups.

 

[bryanwheat]

The bolts are literally stripped out and not holding any pressure on it and you just want to jb weld it on. You are asking for trouble. You do realize that if it snaps off when you are driving than you could loose all your oil and not even know it right? In the time that it took you to write this and wait for reply's you could of already had it done and ready to go. Yeah, it might work, but why spend money on something that might work, but also has the same possibility of failure?

 

[Boostinsideways]

Just get an AN fitting and have it welded on.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

The bolts are literally stripped out and not holding any pressure on it and you just want to jb weld it on. You are asking for trouble. You do realize that if it snaps off when you are driving than you could loose all your oil and not even know it right? In the time that it took you to write this and wait for reply's you could of already had it done and ready to go. Yeah, it might work, but why spend money on something that might work, but also has the same possibility of failure?

um... no both screws are in..... there is a gasket.... but ONE of the screws is stripped... so the threads dont create a seal. its a steady slow drip, not something that will at all come out gushing, also oil pressure is fine... no one ever said anything about oil pressure being gone?

I would still fix it by changing the oil pan. Get to work the same way you got to work before you had the motor dropped in. You have a brand new, built 6-bolt engine, and you want to JB weld your drain pipe to your oil pan...? Come on now.

If you still want to do it, apparently Vladimir has done it before without hiccups.

i dont have time to do it, and i drive my dsm to work its my daily driver! i do plan to fix it right. but its not like i can pull out all that shit tonight.

Just get an AN fitting and have it welded on.

that would still require taking off the pan, in which case, i might as well get a new pan?, my fp drain tube isn't an AN fitting

ill repost when i atempt the JB weld.

 

[1983gsp]

It would only take about 4 hours to do it right plus the time it would take the welder to fix it. You're looking at a day of downtime, max. Do it right or not at all. Dsm's have a bad rep cause of half-ass fixes. Just my 2 cents.

 

[romeen]

Even stock bolts with undamaged threads will leak past the threads if crush washers aren't used. If the threads aren't stripped REAL bad I would try a 1/4" with 20 thread pitch bolt. You won't need to tap new threads. Use a new oem drain tube to pan gasket and 1/4" copper crush washers between bolt head and flange. Personally, I wouldn't use JB Weld or RTV.

 

[MichaelSuch]

I had to use JB Weld for a quick fix when my oil pressure sending unit broke off due to the brass being brittle in Nashville, TN 400 miles from home. I lost all oil and amazingly till this day the car runs fine. I've used it on ATV blocks when chains jump off and put holes in crankcases too without any issues. If you plan on replacing the pan go ahead on do it.

 

[bryanwheat]

um... no both screws are in..... there is a gasket.... but ONE of the screws is stripped... so the threads dont create a seal. its a steady slow drip, not something that will at all come out gushing, also oil pressure is fine... no one ever said anything about oil pressure being gone?

I didn't say a thing about oil pressure, i was referring to the bolt holding pressure against the drain tube. You obviously don't want to hear any answer other than your own so go ahead and use the jb weld in HOPES that it holds. Jb weld sticks to an oil pan and drain pipe real well by the way.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I didn't say a thing about oil pressure, i was referring to the bolt holding pressure against the drain tube. You obviously don't want to hear any answer other than your own so go ahead and use the jb weld in HOPES that it holds. Jb weld sticks to an oil pan and drain pipe real well by the way.

i am open to any and all sugguestions, i havent done anything to fix it, i didnt do anything on it last night and when i came out this morning to look at how much oil was lost it wasnt more then a few drips. guys guys guys if you read the origional post. again.... i said yes i know it should be done right.. but i need something temporary. i dont have time to pull that shit out. or else i would 100% do it. i just need it working for the break in. i have a new FP drain tube on teh way, ill buy a new oil pan and replace it with the old on with the stripped nut.

for the JB weld. would you guys just put it around the outside of the flange or would you put it on the thread of the leaking screw? if im going to seal the outside of the whole drain tube, i know i should sand it down to make it rough, but should i follow around the outside of the flange sealing it or should i just try and remidy this one screw.

and again, i havent done anything since last night yet. ended up taking the bus to work today....

also, i live 47 miles from where the swap happened, the car drove fine from the shop to my house, i just had to top off the oil. and i do not have the tools or equipment to lift the car, or pull the motor again on my own. if i was going to fix it i would have to do it from the bottom. im not saying i wont fix it right. because i definitly will. but i have tried so far a few different things that have not worked. i could try the copper crush washer... but the problem is that the screw goes in. but it doesnt tighten enough. so it doesnt create a seal. the other screw and gasket are good and new and 100% fine. this is just one stripped nut on the inside of the oil pan.

 

[JusMX141]

i have an FP t3/dsm drain tube on the way...

Rubber oil drains FTL. They get hard, they collapse, they crack, they leak.

Here's a better option.

 

[rlacasse1]

Have you thought about putting a heli-coil in it?

 

[BogusSVO]

Tap it and put a new bolt in it.

Since you are worried about metal flake at brake thu, dip the tap in wheel bearing grease.
The grease will hold the metal shavings.

Stop just before break thu, clean the tap, and new grease, and finish the tap.

Now think of this, how many DSM'ers have installed a heli-coil in the exhaust side of the head into the oil passage? Alot I would bet.
That oil flows stright to the head.

Now in your case, you are tapping into the oil pan, any metal that falls into the oil pan, has to be small enough to make it past the pick up screen, then pass thu the oil pump then goes in the oil fliter.

Now if you tap with the greese like I explained above, I doubt there will be more than 2 or 3 flakes.
For extra insurance, after you tap, drain the oil and the flakes should flow out with the oil.
For even more insurance, install a magnetic tip oil drain plug.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Have you thought about putting a heli-coil in it?

this nut is too shallow to heli-coil have you seen this thing?? its open ended with a 1/4 inch nut so there is nothing to stop a helicoil at the end of the hole. plus its too shallow.

Rubber oil drains FTL. They get hard, they collapse, they crack, they leak.

Here's a better option.

+1!!!! i thought it was rubber protective stuff over a steel braded line... i will be returning this FP drain tube as soon as i get it .. thanks man. looks like that one has a OEM mitsubishi oil pan fitting and then an AN fitting on the other

Tap it and put a new bolt in it.

Since you are worried about metal flake at brake thu, dip the tap in wheel bearing grease.
The grease will hold the metal shavings.

Stop just before break thu, clean the tap, and new grease, and finish the tap.

Now think of this, how many DSM'ers have installed a heli-coil in the exhaust side of the head into the oil passage? Alot I would bet.
That oil flows stright to the head.

Now in your case, you are tapping into the oil pan, any metal that falls into the oil pan, has to be small enough to make it past the pick up screen, then pass thu the oil pump then goes in the oil fliter.

Now if you tap with the greese like I explained above, I doubt there will be more than 2 or 3 flakes.
For extra insurance, after you tap, drain the oil and the flakes should flow out with the oil.
For even more insurance, install a magnetic tip oil drain plug.

it sounds dooable, but sketchy, i guess a magnetic oil drain plug would catch anything floating around if it was a strong enough magnet. and the greese idea seems good. anyone know the OEM thread pitch length and all that for the oil drain tube screws on the oil pan? and which tap would i need to make sure the least amount of metal shavings are created?

if i retapped the threads at least i wouldent have to pull the oil pan at all. i guess if i did tap i could always leave the oil drain plug open and pour a few quarts of oil through the engine to clean out the pan before i put more oil in. thanks for the idea!

 

[bryanwheat]

this nut is too shallow to heli-coil have you seen this thing?? its open ended with a 1/4 inch nut so there is nothing to stop a helicoil at the end of the hole. plus its too shallow.



+1!!!! i thought it was rubber protective stuff over a steel braded line... i will be returning this FP drain tube as soon as i get it .. thanks man. looks like that one has a OEM mitsubishi oil pan fitting and then an AN fitting on the other




it sounds dooable, but sketchy, i guess a magnetic oil drain plug would catch anything floating around if it was a strong enough magnet. and the greese idea seems good. anyone know the OEM thread pitch length and all that for the oil drain tube screws on the oil pan? and which tap would i need to make sure the least amount of metal shavings are created?

if i retapped the threads at least i wouldent have to pull the oil pan at all. i guess if i did tap i could always leave the oil drain plug open and pour a few quarts of oil through the engine to clean out the pan before i put more oil in. thanks for the idea!

If you tap it than you will be going to the next size. The bolt that goes in there from the factory is a 6x1.0. I would try a 7x1.0 tap and bolt.

Now think of this, how many DSM'ers have installed a heli-coil in the exhaust side of the head into the oil passage? Alot I would bet.
That oil flows stright to the head.

The hole that you are referring to doesn't go into an oil supply passage, it goes thru the head and into the front center oil drain passage for the head. So the oil is going from the head to pan, not the other way around.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Tap it and put a new bolt in it.

Since you are worried about metal flake at brake thu, dip the tap in wheel bearing grease.
The grease will hold the metal shavings.

Stop just before break thu, clean the tap, and new grease, and finish the tap.

Now in your case, you are tapping into the oil pan, any metal that falls into the oil pan, has to be small enough to make it past the pick up screen, then pass thu the oil pump then goes in the oil fliter.

Now if you tap with the greese like I explained above, I doubt there will be more than 2 or 3 flakes.
For extra insurance, after you tap, drain the oil and the flakes should flow out with the oil.
For even more insurance, install a magnetic tip oil drain plug.

im 100% going to try this first before JB weld, how much more worse could it get? it already leaks... now for plan of execution, should i take off the whole drain tube again and then tap the pan. or should i leave the one screw in that has a good seal, and tap through the drain tube flange into the oil pan. the next size up screw would not fix through the drain tube im guessing.

 

[BogusSVO]

well if the bolt is a 6x1.00 MM I would go to a 1/4 x 20 just a hair larger

pull the drain tube out of the way and just tap the pan.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

well if the bolt is a 6x1.00 MM I would go to a 1/4 x 20 just a hair larger

pull the drain tube out of the way and just tap the pan.

1/4x 1.00mm sounds like a plan! about how long are these screws? or bolts about 1 inch? is this 1/4X1.0 metric or standard... it sounds like if i tap it to standard thats the only hair diffeerence you were talking about.