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Questions for Justin...

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kidtsi

10+ Year Contributor
1,417
17
Feb 17, 2009
Laredo, Texas
I have this AGP 50 trim t3 JB turbo with 400 miles, my buddy had it on his srt4 it made 554whp on his car with meth i believe, after that i put it on my 1g and it fits even with the 60 degree elbow i just twisted the compressor housing a little more, i never turn it on or even finish that car.

I would like to know if you had seen this turbos or worked on them before and how nice it would be for a dsm. st4 owners love them, im currently selling it in this forum but i would like to know how much is fair. :D
 

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It's just a journal-bearing T3-based T04E 50-trim turbo made by Turbonetics for AGP...nothing too special.

...although 554whp is pretty impressive for even a FWD to make on a 48 lb/min turbo. ;)


LOVE the thread title, by the way.
 
It's just a journal-bearing T3-based T04E 50-trim turbo made by Turbonetics for AGP...nothing too special.

...although 554whp is pretty impressive for even a FWD to make on a 48 lb/min turbo. ;)


I know there is nothing special, just wanted to know about agp and how reliable. ill post it for 450 shipped. what you think?
 
That only flows 48 lbs? Just get a 20G at that rate.

Yeah but the 50-trim is a slightly better pump gas performer than the 20G due to better airflow at lower boost levels, hence the demand for the old-school FP Green which bridged the gap between MHI durability and T04E50 airflow.

I know there is nothing special, just wanted to know about agp and how reliable. ill post it for 450 shipped. what you think?
Probably a good starting point, but I feel it's a little more than I'd pay...but then again I wouldn't go out of my way to buy anything made by Turbonetics. My experience with their turbos is not a good one- Dave paid $600 for a new leftover Turbonetics 60-1 and it blew on the way to my shop from his place in MD while driving on the street. It blew so badly that the only usable parts were the turbine housing and compressor cover.

That is completely unacceptable. I've seen eBay turbos last longer. LOL

...but your buddy appears to have a good one, however the "wet" appearance to the turbine wheel is a little scary. You didn't store this turbo with the turbine wheel facing down after it was removed from the car, did you?
 
Tell her I need one, too. LOL


By the way, Kevin...I edited your thread title to be plural so now everyone can join in the fun. This can be a random dump thread for turbo-related questions that don't necessarily require their own thread. Thanks!
 
I like the concept of this thread because I receive MANY PM's that contain tech questions which should be asked in the tech threads to get more than one opinion or answer....now I can "dump" those tech PM's here with a simple copy & paste so everyone can learn and enjoy.
 
Here's another one for you Justin. My buddy just bought this turbo used. It's supposed to be a FP Green and we are looking to confirm that. It's internally gated with a 34mm flapper, 56 mm exhaust wheel, 7cm2 housing, nothing on the compressor cover except the FP logo. Here s a pic:
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Work your magic! :hellyeah:
 
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It's a clipped TD05H turbine which was never used in a FP Green. The Green used a clipped TD06H which is much, much larger...the inducer tips of the TD06H turbine are actually larger than the heat shield behind it, which is how I can tell your example does not use a TD06H turbine.

Here's a picture of a TD06H turbine in a FP Red:

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Here's a picture of a rebuilt TD05H 20G CHRA, illustrating the turbine inducer tips in nearly the same area of the heat shield as the photo you provided:

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As far as the compressor goes....well, I can't see through metal- so I'll need a pic of the compressor side to see what wheel it's using. :D
 
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Justin, is that the only difference with the 5h and the 6h? Just the size of the turbine wheel? The shaft isn't any different?
 
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The shaft is the exact same spec- you can rightfully install a TD06H turbine into any turbo that uses a TD05H turbine and experience lower turbine backpressure once the housing is machined for the larger wheel....although the 06H is indeed larger and has a lower peak speed which can effect some compressor wheels negatively.
 
Actually received this as a PM on the Link forums, but there is a good bit of tech info discussed so I feel it has a place in this thread.

******* said:
I saw a post on tuners where you responded about having rebuilt Mitsu turbos with new components and not having them balanced without any adverse effects since all the Mitsu parts are balanced true from the factory. Would this same approach apply to the Frank turbos that used mitsu housings with a Garrett compressor wheel if I decided to disassemble the center housing to see if there is damage to the bearings? I would assume when the journal bearings go, or start to go, oil starts seeping out similar to the situation I've noted with seepage on the inducer of the turbine wheel on a Frank Level 4 that I just bought. I had to ID this turbo as the seller thought it was some GT3071R hybrid. Upon removing the turbine housing, I noted the inducer of the turbine was wet all the way around. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks in advance!
This would not apply to the Frank turbos seeing as they are built in an aftermarket environment and require extensive machining for the compressor wheel to work properly on the Mitsu turbine. Many aftermarket turbo builders will then balance the turbo as a rotating assembly after this machining is done to verify that the turbo will offer a trouble-free lifespan. If you disassemble this turbo, make sure you mark the alignment of the compressor wheel, locknut, and turbine shaft just to be on the safe side.

Turbine seal leakage does not always mean there is a type of bearing failure, although excessive shaft play will almost always result in some type of oil leakage due to the instability of the seal. If there's no shaft play, there's a good chance the turbine seal is blown from either too much oil pressure at the inlet or the inability to drain properly whether it be too small of a drain, a pinched / kinked drain, or excessive crankcase pressure.

Normally if I were to service a turbo with only a leaking turbine seal for a customer, I would replace the journal bearings and seals only- saving them a little on the cost of a full rebuild by re-using the existing thrust hardware. The journal bearings see wear all the time, the thrust plate only sees wear in the event of an oiling problem or if you're running a very high boost level.
 
You didn't store this turbo with the turbine wheel facing down after it was removed from the car, did you?

Did you ask this because storing a turbo on its side will cause wear???? Or just hoping that it was stored this way allowing some oil to get on the wheel causing the wet look??
 
Like a piston ring, a turbine seal does not seal 100%. If you store a turbo with the turbine wheel facing down, this will cause any oil in the cartridge to seep between the seal itself and the turbine seal groove giving the turbine a "wet" appearance- especially if the turbo was recently removed from the car and the cartridge contains some oil.

Unless the turbo is new or otherwise has a completely dry cartridge, you should always store your turbo as it would be situated on the car to prevent this from happening.
 
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Hey Justin, you don't have to answer this if you don't want to, but where do you get your MHI rebuild kits? I'm just curious which dealers are reputable and which ones are not. I'm not rebuilding mine, just asking.
 
Hey Justin, you don't have to answer this if you don't want to, but where do you get your MHI rebuild kits? I'm just curious which dealers are reputable and which ones are not. I'm not rebuilding mine, just asking.
I don't use a full MHI parts kit- just the MHI journal bearings and seals. This keeps the cost of the parts low, and keeps my customers satisfied. A full MHI parts kit runs nearly $130, and that's a tough sale on a 14B customer.

Any good turbo parts shop should be able to get you MHI parts, or you can buy them at a dealer; the part number for the bearings (standard size only) is 49178-21400, and the seals are 49170-23100 and 49178-23100
 
I have done a lot of research and looked at a lot of fuel maps of turbos. I am going to aim for the 400awhp mark with my car. I want the power to the wheels. I have all the supporting mods for my car.

I was wondering what would be "THE" turbo of YOUR choice to get me here. I keep going back to the Holset HX-35. Would there be any other turbo that you would pick that wouldn't spool to slow or overshoot my goals? Thank you for your time, this thread is going to be awesome.
 
Depends on whether you're looking to stay with something OEM-appearing or not.

The 68HTA should get you to your goal and remains a 100% stock-appearing turbo. It's also going to spool faster than anything in the 400whp category because of the TD05H turbine and lightweight / efficient billet compressor wheel. You can also look at the Blouch 20G-XT, the Bullseye S256, the Holset HX35, and pretty much any of the thousands of T04E 50-trim Garrett copies that are out there.
 
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I have two MHI B16G turbos right now. Can I reach that goal with some type of 16G hybrid?
I checked out those turbos you listed. I really like the Blouch 20G-XT. My buddy has a HX-35 that he wants to sell but it's in rough shape.
Hopefully I can get my knowledge of turbos a little more on par by the time I max out my 16G.
 
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