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Questions for Justin...

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Bastard 20g turbo TD05H. Ported exhaust housing to match a ported o2 housing.
I've had a hard time lately finding airflow numbers AND compressor maps to show my tuner.
When I bought this turbo, i based it off maps, mod lists of succesors, and me being auto fwd at that time.

My question is:
When will i start blowing HOT air?
Is the efficiency range still 27 psi when the turbo wakes up?

Been fighting some knock on pump 93 at 21 psi.

Mods:
bastard 20g
38mm EWG
1000cc injectors
400 walbro
RVR engine
RVR intake manifold
3" exhuast
 

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Turbine flow and compressor potential are indirectly related in that one must be well-matched to the other in order for a certain setup to work properly even though the majority of folks base their turbo selection entirely on compressor potential and give little regard to turbine wheel size or housing a/r. Compressor maps don't necessarily matter on a turbo as overdriven as a TD05H 20G...on pump gas you're going to have a hard time exceeding boost in the lower 20's unless your mod list is spot-on and the intercooler has a ton of potential- otherwise all you've done is taken a turbo like an Evo III 16G and jammed more compressed air into the exhaust housing, which will find the restriction point sooner resulting in a knock wall that is found at a lower boost level.

What you're asking would be comparable to asking how big of a turbo you can run on stock 450cc injectors...and the answer isn't "yes" or "no" because there are so many variables like a larger pump or higher base pressure that will alter how the stock injectors perform, but the one thing that is certain is the larger the turbo you choose the less boost you'll be able to run before finding the max flow point of the injectors. So think of the 7cm2 turbine housing and 05H turbine as being 450cc injectors...the larger the compressor is on the turbo, the sooner you're going to max out the flow so you'll have to run a lower boost level or a better-quality fuel to get around the knock issue.
 
I found a hy35. It was pretty rusty but I got the turbine housing off, but this happened. My question would this be ok. The wheels look fine, there isn’t any excess shaft play, no rubbing, but the heat shield I think it is is messed up. How it got like that I’m not sure because nothing was rubbing or hitting it. The turbine housing looks fine for the most part.
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That turbine wheel looks trashed. The shield should never be able to move that far up.
 
To the top!

Wondering if @JusMX141 could shed some light on some HE351VE/CW compressor questions. I plan on running the CW in the future and have recently found a VE with a Wicked Wheel compressor wheel for a great price. The WW measures the same as the stock CW compressor so it's a drop in replacement (save extended tips), but I'm wondering if the extended tip WW really flows more and if it would be worth using on the CW vs the stock wheel?

All the diesel boards consensus say it's marketing gimmickry, but I trust your turbo knowledge more than the diesel boys, especially considering most of their threads reference back to tuners here, most of them your threads and info ROFL
 
Rule #1...anybody can call any billet wheel a "wicked wheel". I saw a listing on eBay a while ago where a guy was selling box-stock HX40's with the OEM billet compressor as wicked wheel turbos. Find out exactly what the specs are go from there...there are benefits to an upgraded drop-in compressor, but the HE351CW is already over-driven at the factory so I'm not sure you'll see anything without loosening up the turbine side a bit.
 
Rule #1...anybody can call any billet wheel a "wicked wheel". I saw a listing on eBay a while ago where a guy was selling box-stock HX40's with the OEM billet compressor as wicked wheel turbos. Find out exactly what the specs are go from there...there are benefits to an upgraded drop-in compressor, but the HE351CW is already over-driven at the factory so I'm not sure you'll see anything without loosening up the turbine side a bit.
Wait, so you're saying not everything on eBay is as it seems?
 
I figured haha. I kinda thought the 351cw was already a bit over-compressored, but I will grab some pics and measurements to post up. Either way, I paid 50 bux for the VE and it seems to be in great shape otherwise, haven't disassembled it but it spins free and looks very clean.
 
Have a qestion or two for Justin?
Got this turbo from a member! It’s brand new! Seen ur signature on the wheels.
It looks to be a 6 blade billet compressor wheel and 10 blade turbine wheel! Have any idea on what specs this could be 60m 64m 67m. Any info could help. Thanks buddy
 

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And to add to the pile again.
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Inducer is 60mm
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Tips measure out at 90mm

Didn't get a weight or hub measurement, could always pull it off and check.

@spitefire1 nice score!
 
Have a qestion or two for Justin?
Got this turbo from a member! It’s brand new! Seen ur signature on the wheels.
It looks to be a 6 blade billet compressor wheel and 10 blade turbine wheel! Have any idea on what specs this could be 60m 64m 67m. Any info could help. Thanks buddy
Looks like a standard HX40 which would have a 60/86mmmm compressor and a 76/64mm turbine.

Inducer is 60mm

Tips measure out at 90mm

Didn't get a weight or hub measurement, could always pull it off and check.
Someone installed the drop-in billet upgrade, the same wheel that was used in the post above yours. The wheel alone is $150ish new so at a $50 purchase price you're already ahead of the game. :D
 
Someone installed the drop-in billet upgrade, the same wheel that was used in the post above yours. The wheel alone is $150ish new so at a $50 purchase price you're already ahead of the game. :D

I like the sound of that, figured it was money well spent!
I may send the turbine and it's housing to turbolab (or you if you can do the same thing?) For the 76/67 turbine upgrade. Any thoughts on that option?
 
Justin what’s your opinion on the .63 ar housing in relation to a certain size compressor wheel? I’m sold on upgrading to a t3 over a bolt on housing in a 100% street car but I’m still more interested in a streetable power band than a max power output. At what size wheel, 58mm, 60mm etc is the .63 too much restriction?
 
I like the sound of that, figured it was money well spent!
I may send the turbine and it's housing to turbolab (or you if you can do the same thing?) For the 76/67 turbine upgrade. Any thoughts on that option?
I think they sell the housing already machined with the turbine wheel on eBay- it wouldn't make financial sense to cut your housing unless you're a machinist by trade by the time you buy the turbine wheel and pay someone $100-$150 to machine your turbine housing.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Holset-HE351CW-Turbine-Housing-Shaft-Upgrade-67-mm/112208926045

Justin what’s your opinion on the .63 ar housing in relation to a certain size compressor wheel? I’m sold on upgrading to a t3 over a bolt on housing in a 100% street car but I’m still more interested in a streetable power band than a max power output. At what size wheel, 58mm, 60mm etc is the .63 too much restriction?
A .63 housing is going to limit you to around 600hp or so no matter what turbine is inside it so you may as well mate it to a compressor that's capable of around 60-65 lb/min if you're trying to get the "max" out of the setup.
 
I think they sell the housing already machined with the turbine wheel on eBay- it wouldn't make financial sense to cut your housing unless you're a machinist by trade by the time you buy the turbine wheel and pay someone $100-$150 to machine your turbine housing.

Indeed they do, unfortunately I already had mine modified to get rid of the marmon flange and internal wg. I had done this before they'd publicized the modified housings, so now financially it would make sense for me to have mine machined for the bigger wheel. Past that it seems like an upgrade that makes sense flow-wise. If this is something you might be interested in doing, pm me. Once again thanks for the info!
 
Random thought...Just need to ask to get this thought out of my head. What turbo would you recommend for the following setup

low boost 6-7 PSI, 8 max
4g64 on stock internals

I am only thinking of getting this truck up around the 200-220 Hp mark for a little extra towing power but if at all possible I dont want to run an intercooler (hence low boost). I do some light off roading in it and dont want the added complexity of where to put it so it doesn't get smashed on a rock or interfere with other things like winch if/when I decide to put one on.

Thanks.
 
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Have you ever ran across this before? This is the very back of the compressor wheel on my FP 18g SL2.

It looks like someone just took a grinding wheel to it without any kind of logical intent.

Btw, this wheel weights the same as the cast 20g. 70 grains.

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Here is the CHRA that wheel came off of. You can see the “FP” and “EJD” scribed on there.
 
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