The 8blade hx35 has a 56mm compressor inducer. This is found on 1995-1998 cummins manual pickups. The compressor flows 52 lb/min according to the compressor map. The bolton BEP housing (0.55 a/r) is enough to push the limit of the compressor. There's several 500whp 8blade hx35 cars out there with the bolt on housing. It reaches 20+psi by 3500rpms in 3rd with 272 cams. Smaller cams would equal a faster spool speed in most cases.
The 7blade hx35 has a 56mm compressor inducer. This is found on the 1999-2002 cummins manual pickups. The compressor flows 60lb/min according to the compressor map and logged results from a member here. The bolton BEP housing with the hx35 turbine wheel do not SEAM to have enough flow to really reach the potential of 60lb/min. But many have logged over 50lb/min so far and seen 500whp. The stock hx35 12cm^2 twinscroll turbine housing is a t3 flange housing. This mated to a NON-divided runner manifold has produced a 132mph trap speed with a full weight 1g AWD. This is about 600whp. So the flow is there with the stock housing if you use a non-divided manifold. The spool speed of the 7blade hx35 is similar to the 8blade hx35 with 20+ psi by 3500rpms in the bolton housing and by 4000rpms with the stock housing with a non-divided manifold.
HY35:
The hy35 has a smaller turbine wheel than the hx35. And, it has a turbine housing connection that does not allow for a bolton housing to be used. It does not have a divided housing so any t3 manifold can be used effectively with this turbo. It has the same compressor as the 7blade hx35. We don't know if te hy35 turbine wheel and housing is enough to reache the 60lb/min potential of the 56mm 7blade compressor. Some one try it out already!!! It should at least be a faster spooling viable option to the full t3/t4 50-trim.
H1C/WH1C:
In 1994, there was the Wh1c which has pretty much the identical compressor as the hx35 but with a Vband compressor cover. The turbine wheel is the same. It will bolt into the BEP bolton hx35 turbine housing. It has 4 bolts at the housing instead of 6. So you will need to buy 2 more bolts and use 6 washers cut to make a flat side. Honestly, I just used bolts that were cut a little short and the bolt head was wide enough to pull the chra to the turbine housing. No sealing issues. Since the Wh1c is for all practical purposes an 8blade hx35 the spool and flow is the same too.
I have the big h1c. It comes on the INTERCOOLED 1991-1993 cummins pickups. It has the webbing for MWE but no groove cut like the hx35/wh1c has. This turbo I term the big h1c because it has a 54mm compressor inducer and same exducer than the 8blade hx35/Wh1c. The other h1c is the small h1c found on the NON-intercooled cummins pickups. This has a 50mm inducer but only 7blades and has no webbing for MWE. Less blades helps flow, but so does a larger inducer diameter. The most whp ever recorded on a gas 4cylinder with the small h1c was done on a KA24 nissan: 411whp. Since the big h1c has a 4mm larger inducer and the same turbine wheel as the hx35, it is safe to say that it flows enough for between 411whp and 500whp. The diesel sources state that it flows SLIGHTLY less than the early hx35. So 4lb/min less than the 8blade hx35 puts the flow of the big h1c at 48-49lb/min right where a 50-trim or 20g is. The small bep housing is all that's needed to get the most from the compressor and the spool speed is 20+psi by 3500rpms.
HX35-40 hybrid:
Keeping the long tradition of the marriage of sportcompact and hybrid turbos, there is the hx35 turbine and the hx40 compressor. It is strongly recommended to use the large bep turbine housing or the stock hx35 turbine housing with an non-divided t3 manifold for this turbo. The small bep housing around a t31 size hx35 turbine wheel is probably not enough to merit any of the hx40 compressor wheel upgrades. 20+ psi by 4000rpms can be seen in the hx35/40 with the hx35 12cm^2 turbine housing with a non-divided t3 manifold. With the large bep housing, spool times are to be determined. But likely similar.
HX40:
The 8blade hx40 has a 58mm inducer and flows about the same as a 60-1 (around 60lb/min) with ALOT better high boost efficiency and spool speed. It is the most common hx40 out there. The small bep housing with the hx40 turbine wheel is plenty to reach the full potential of the 60lb/min 8blade hx40 compressor. 20+ psi by 4100rpms with 272s.
The 7 and 6 blade hx40 is called the super40 and has the 60mm compressor inducer. This compressor flows around 69lb/min. You can get this wheel in billet style (think HTA). The non-billet wheel spools as fast as the 8blade hx40 in the bolton bep housing and has done 653whp at 40psi per the holset results only thread. Billet should spool even faster. The t3 .70 a/r BEP housing slows spool about 400rpms. But reports show a significant gain in flow per psi. So expect more power at lower boost with that turbine housing.
H1E/WH1E:
The Wh1e is like it's little brother the Wh1c. It mirrors the hx40 8blade in every way except that it has a v-band compressor cover and a 4bolt chra-turbinehousing pattern. It will consequently bolt into the hx40 bep bolton turbine housing and this is plenty of flow to max out its 60lb/min compressor.
The h1e is like it's little brother the h1c. There are different size compressors. . . BUT there are also different size turbine wheels too. Check measurements before buying this turbo if you plan on running a BEP turbine housing. There are lower flowing compressors than the 58mm 8blade that are out there. So this turbo may not flow any more than an hx35 if get the wrong one. You need at least a 58mm compressor inducer for this to be a worthwhile turbo vs the proven hx35 or 8blade hx40.
HX52:
This is a big sucker. It is commonly found on the Volvo Semis and usually has a billet compressor wheel. It flows 88lb/min. There is no bolt on housing for it. If you want a bolton housing for this turbo, then you don't want this turbo. In fact if you want a t3 flange turbine housing for this turbo, then you don't want this turbo. You DO want this turbo if you're looking at a gt4294r or gt4202r. The turbine inlet is slightly different than a t4 bolt pattern. You can still get the t4 manifold to work just fine by enlarging the bolt holes.
Misc.:
Holset's don't spool slow. They spool faster than their garrett or mitsubishi counterparts. Diesel exhaust is cold and slow moving.
The holset turbine wheel is a work of art. It has been shown to flow very well in a very small turbine housing. For example the hx40 turbine wheel in the small .55 ar bep bolton housing flows as much as a garrett gt35r turbine wheel in a larger .63 ar garrett t3 turbine housing. The hx40 with this configuration spools about 500rpms faster! You can upgrade to the .70 a/r BEP t3 turbine housing and have the same or slightly faster spool speed as the above gt35r with ALOT more flow per psi and consequently more horsepower per psi. This makes for VERY good pumpgas numbers.
Holset patented map width enhancement. They do not have extended tip technology, but there compressors show more efficiency than their garrett or mitsubishi counterpart.
They have superback technology witch leads to VERY, VERY durable compressors. The are designed to be overworked and underpaid.
There are discrepancies all over the web concerning the compressor maps. Take what you hear/read with a grain of salt and a shot of tequila, and the worm.
The holset is fine with stock 4g63 oil pressure from the oil filter housing. If you have no b shafts, you'll need a restrictor. The drain line is a garret bolt pattern. The feed line is different for different turbos.
Last edited by Morphius; 11-06-2009 at 09:59 AM.
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Brief summary of this discussion in this thread: Page 1: Post 2: evo3/3g manifold - dsm-onster Post 3 : 1fast2g's results - Wicked95AWD Post 4 : 1fast2g's results - dsm-onster Post 5 : t4 question - nfernotalon Post 6 : Info on Holset he bought - kawboy Post 7 : BEP housing - viperlp01 Post 8 : BEP housing/turbotrader - nfernotalon Post 9 : T4 Twin scroll - Wicked95AWD Post 10 : T4 - dsm-monster Post 11 : HE341/HY-35 - nfernotalon Post 12 : Info on setup,Hx40 w/18cm^2 T4 -Wicked95AWD Post 13 : Comp map questions on Hx-40 - TxR6guy Post 14 : Personal setup, HX52/DNP T4 -Maglin Post 15 : Small talk - JWoodley Post 16 : Personal setup, HX40/divided manifold - 1gDSM4g63 Post 17 : Comp map response -TxR6guy questions, personal setup - dsm-onster Post 18 : Tuning small talk - Maglin Post 19 : Compressor map, VW thread - We're on Boost Post20 : 1fast2g's results - We're on Boost Post 21 : Personal setup, boost source location - 95burgundyesi Post 22 : 1fast2g's results -Dsm-onster Post 23 : V band size T4 Hx40 question - nfernotalon Post 24 : V band sizes, ATI dampner - Maglin Post 25 : Question ATI info - kawboy Post 26 : ATI dampner - Maglin Post 27 : 8 blade Hx40 compare to question - kraka Post 28 : Personal setup - Black Bullet Post 29 : Personal setup, 7 blade HX-35 BEP housing - need2boostpsi Post 30 : 8 blade Hx40 compare answer - 1gDSM4G63
Page 2: Post 31 : Question - recommendation for 600hp - yellow90tsi Post 32 : Small talk - kraka Post 33 : 1FAST2G results - 580hp hx40 8 blade - dsm-onster Post 34 : 1FAST2G results - andy4g63 Post 35 : BEP housing, personal setup - 1stGenTSi Post 36 : 1FAST2G results - dsm-onster Post 37 : Personal setup, results - 1FAST2G Post 38 : 1FAST2G results - Black Bullet Post 39 : BEP housing - talonDSMerr Post 40 : BEP housing, turbular 02 housing - dsm-onster Post 41 : 02 housing port matching - kawboy Post 42 : Personal setup - 1FAST2G Post 43 : Small talk, personal setup - nfernotalon Post 44 : Personal setup, 7blade HX35 - ninesixtwo Post 45 : Small talk - DSMsOwnYourV8 Post 46 : Small talk - Slippi84 Post 47 : Personal setup, HX52, 2.4L - jshuman Post 48 : BEP housing order - IPT Post 49 : Small talk - dsm-onster Post 50 : Small talk - IPT Post 51 : Small talk - Slippi84 Post 52 : o2 housings w/BEP - andy4g63 Post 53 : Manifolds - jshuman Post 54 : Small talk - Slippi84 Post 55 : Small talk - nfernotalon Post 56 : Small talk - DSMsOwnYourV8 Post 57 : Small talk - 95GSXCO Post 58 : Personal setup, Manifold/O2 housings - Black Bullet Post 59 : Small talk - turbotalon1g Post 60 : Manifold/O2 housings - talonDSMerr
Concerning the last few posts on the last thread, the evo3 manifold is the same as the 2g manifold except for the outlet diameter is for a 7cm^2 turbine housing. Port matching the outlet to the bep housing makes the 2g manifold perform jsut as well as an evo manifold.
With that said, just because a 2g or evo manifold has done 9s doesn't mean it wasnt a restriction. What was the result of said 9second dsm after swapping to a better manifold? We've seen an 11second car upgrade to an fp race exhaust manifold from a 2g trap 2mph higher though the ambient temp was 20* higher.
These turbos like to flow big. Give them a chance. Use what you can, but don't think you shouldn't build around these turbos like a garrett gt turbo to get similar results.
____________________________
Matt
dd '90 GST, Holset H1C
1fast2g's numbers with the standard HX40 in the results page are very impressive, especially for a motor with stock 1g rods & pistons. Does anyone know how much boost he was running when he made 530+whp? The Dynapak graph looked like it said 44psi, but I'm not sure if that is accurate or even possible with his setup on E85.
I have a brand new divided t3 16cm^2 housing and a brand new HX40 wastegate actuator/arm
So don't worry
Yea I just dont wanna change out my mani too!
Viperlp01-- Yes I understand but everyone says no one cant get a hold of anymore DSM housings. Im gonna give turbotrader a call right now and let you guys know.
Why spend a couple hundred dollars on a different housing just so that you can keep the restrictive stock exhaust manifold? Spend two hundred dollars more and pair your existing divided t4 housing with a nice DNP or Dark Performance divided t4 header and you will increase VE and make more power. You should also get better part-throttle response and spool just as fast with the twin scroll T4 setup as you would by sticking with the stock single scroll Mitsu mani & housing.
Someone really needs to prove that. I'll be trying my 8blade hx40 with a custom divided t4 manifold this year. I want to build a compressor map for the h1c first and get some track time early with it.
____________________________
Matt
dd '90 GST, Holset H1C
Why spend a couple hundred dollars on a different housing just so that you can keep the restrictive stock exhaust manifold? Spend two hundred dollars more and pair your existing divided t4 housing with a nice DNP or Dark Performance divided t4 header and you will increase VE and make more power. You should also get better part-throttle response and spool just as fast with the twin scroll T4 setup as you would by sticking with the stock single scroll Mitsu mani & housing.
I have a tubular exhaust mani.
I would love to get a t4 mani but theyre as much as my turbo set up lol
Also at what size does the compressor housing start hitting the coolant pipe and even worse the block?
This guy is selling a stock holset off his 03cummins he says its an HE341, what does this compare to?
Also found an Hy35 but from what I read it cannot have a bolt on housing so i would need to get a t3mani right? Also no one has really used this turbo before right?
Since you already have a tubular mitsu flanged mani, you could probably break even or at least get close by selling it and buying a TS DNP or Dark Performance T4 flanged model. Mine was only $400.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsm-onster
Someone really needs to prove that.
Give me two weeks and I should have dyno/driving results and possibly video showing the spool and power output of an HX40 pro using the TS T4 (18cm^2) housing. Shortly after that I'll be headed to the track to try and click off a 10 second pass... I just hope my transmission holds together long enough to make it happen.
Last edited by Wicked95AWD; 03-05-2009 at 08:14 PM.
Someone really needs to prove that. I'll be trying my 8blade hx40 with a custom divided t4 manifold this year. I want to build a compressor map for the h1c first and get some track time early with it.
Did you see the maps, that i posted in the last thread for the Hx40 pro?? just wanting to see what you thought of my conclusion...and if those maps are accurate enough to post them in the main part for holset.
Just updating. I finally got almost all of my parts. I had to cut a few items that I wanted off my list to accommodate my finished basement project. So here is what I have and going to start finally getting together after like 3 years.
HX52. BC 288 Cams, BC Stock Size SS Valves, BC Springs and Retainers. Ferrea Bronze/Mag. Valve guides and valve seals, Fidanza Cam Gears, Weisco 8.3:1 Pistons, Scat Rods, ACL naked bearings (rod & Main). DNP T4 Manifold. Tial 44mm Waste Gate. Tial Q BOV. JMF Drag intake manifold, Professional Products 75mm Mustang TB, Hugh 4" FMIC w/ 3" IC piping, Aluminum radiator, FIC Fuel Rail, 1000cc injectors, Full Blown duel pump hanger, 2x Walbro 255's (non HP for a specific reason), -8 Feed line and -6 return line.
I have a 4"-3" SS reducer to weld on the 4" SS V-band flange and attach it to my 3" exhaust. I just have to find my old 3" SS flange to be able to have a good attachment to the DP. I've pretty much used most of my car money so I'm stuck using my old 1000cc injectors. I'm hoping to get some 1650's mid summer to push past 35 PSI. My target is still 45 PSI or more. I'm also going to have to do this on pump gas until I can get the 1650's as E85 will make my current injectors just way to small for any decent power output. I'm starting on my basement this weekend and during the week I'm hoping to start the build on the car. Looks like at least 40 hours worth of work to do if not more. Unless I fall into money I'll probably not be able to make it to a AWD dyno as I don't know of one anywhere near me. I'm not to keen on running FWD on the dyno. The power output will be higher than actual so I feel it's just a waste of time and a cheesy way to inflate your power output. If their is no other alternative then I'll do it before I get rid of the car at the end of summer. That way their will be at least an ET, Trap speed and some Dyno numbers for this setup.
I'm also going to run the cams straight up. I'm going to dial them in of course, but I feel it's the way the cams are designed so that is how I'm planning on running them. I also just bought the wife a new camera so I'll also be able to take some pics of the build process for those that might be interested.
____________________________
Jeremiah
92 Talon TSi (HX52 install in works)
Just updating. I finally got almost all of my parts. I had to cut a few items that I wanted off my list to accommodate my finished basement project. So here is what I have and going to start finally getting together after like 3 years.
HX52...
I'm almost all set too after ditching my HX40 for a HX52 running on Eagle H-beam rods and 9.0:1 Wisecos for the block and a fully accommodated Ferrea head with 1mm oversize valves, dual spring setup, etc..., BC 280s w/ AEM cam gears plus JM Fab SMIM, Q45 90mm TB, Forge BOV running on FIC 1600cc injectors and ECM Link for tuning.
I'm still waiting on the JH Racing divided manifold, another Tial 38mm wastegate, another Wally for dual pump setup and possibly a fatter intercooler. I'd like to think possibly another month, but all things considered who know... ?
Did you see the maps, that i posted in the last thread for the Hx40 pro?? just wanting to see what you thought of my conclusion...and if those maps are accurate enough to post them in the main part for holset.
Well we already have the hx40 pro compressor map; in the holset massflow perameter that can be transfered directly to lb/min by mutiplying by .77, and in CFM. Both show 68lb/min. That map looks like the B8574M hx40 compressor with someone mistaking the holset mass flow perameter for lb/min. Where did THEY get that map? The pro maps we have are published by cummins. If you notice, the B8574M map like many of the other holset maps have their mass flow perameter on the bottem and the lb/min airflow up top. Very easy to fool someone; but also a sure way to get the conversion of the parameter to lb/min.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maglin
Looks like at least 40 hours worth of work to do if not more. Unless I fall into money I'll probably not be able to make it to a AWD dyno as I don't know of one anywhere near me. I'm not to keen on running FWD on the dyno. The power output will be higher than actual so I feel it's just a waste of time and a cheesy way to inflate your power output. If their is no other alternative then I'll do it before I get rid of the car at the end of summer. That way their will be at least an ET, Trap speed and some Dyno numbers for this setup.
I only trust a dyno as a tuning tool anyway. Trapspeed and weight doesnt lie. Keep it up, Jeremiah. Can't wait to see the results. I am working on my divided t3 flange right now. My manifold will be a topmount. I will be ringing out the big h1c. And then swapping directly to the 8blade hx35. Both using the 18.5cm^2 housing with a home built divided runner manifold. I also have to swap in all the 5speed parts into my AWD automatic shell that's had teh automatic parts removed, except for the rear diff. I have all the parts now atleast. Just need to weld the diff while the tranny is out. All my manifold, exhaust, wastegate, intake, intercooler piping design is done. I just have to get warm enough weather to do the work.
Let's get these cars to the track, guys! My closest raceway is 2 states up. If I'm going to do it on my peanut budget, certainly the rest of us can . Matt, Mr. Peepers, has 3 holset cars he's working on (I think including his?) that will be hitting the track this season. Let's make a push here. It's not like we don't have enough information to get our setups running right with the right combination to meet our goals.
____________________________
Matt
dd '90 GST, Holset H1C
I really don't need a dyno to tune. I usually can get a very decent tune in about 30 minutes of driving solo. With someone else doing the driving I could nail a dead nuts tune in probably an hour of driving. But this is going off of maps I've already built previously and already have the start-up, cold start up, idle maps, and those other various portions done. I would enjoy just tuning on a dyno but it's moot and money recently became an issue again. I do plan on going to the track for sure this summer. Not to sure how much though. My uncle has a 7 second race car and I'm planning on going with him. Maybe I'll convince him to let me make a pass in it once the suspension is dialed in on it.
Matt glad to hear you're pretty much ready to go together. I really wanted to go top mount but had to cut costs on my manifold so I could get the fuel supply and return done. I'm hoping for a low 10 high 9 sec run once it's dialed in. Then I'll have to get a cage for it.
____________________________
Jeremiah
92 Talon TSi (HX52 install in works)
Did you see the maps, that i posted in the last thread for the Hx40 pro?? just wanting to see what you thought of my conclusion...and if those maps are accurate enough to post them in the main part for holset.
I saw that VW thread and I think it's a really interesting read. Not so sure about drawing any real conclusions from it though.
For one thing the Holset maps are not very comparable to maps from the other manufacturers because the holset maps show efficiency lines all the way over to 60%. Most of the other mfgs stop mapping at about 68%. But I think the main jist of what that VW guy was looking at was the area of best compressor efficiency and the engine rpm where that would occur given a displacement of 1.8 liters or whatever. Here's a link to it:
By the way in another forum there is a similar thread (might be the same guy) and it shows an evo3 16g compressor map going all the way over to 45 lbs/min. That can't be right can it?
1fast2g's numbers with the standard HX40 in the results page are very impressive, especially for a motor with stock 1g rods & pistons. Does anyone know how much boost he was running when he made 530+whp? The Dynapak graph looked like it said 44psi, but I'm not sure if that is accurate or even possible with his setup on E85.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsm-onster
Boost at peak hp was 33ish psi. It is on the graph.
I was just looking at that post too and on my screen it looks like the boost gets up to about 36 or 37 psi. I pmed 1fast to ask if he is really on a 6-bolt with stock internals, didn't ask about the boost though.
Looks like he is using the .55a/r DSM bolt-on housing.
Got my turbo today and everyitng seems good, juust need to figure out how I am going to make the acuator work and what I am going to do for a boost source since I do not have a nipple by the tag. Would it be safe to have someone drill a hole or, should I not mess with the compressor housing?
I was just looking at that post too and on my screen it looks like the boost gets up to about 36 or 37 psi. I pmed 1fast to ask if he is really on a 6-bolt with stock internals, didn't ask about the boost though.
Looks like he is using the .55a/r DSM bolt-on housing.
Gary
I already got a response from him. 37psi bleeding down to 33psi. Which is in the boost graph under the HP graph. This was posted in the link forums too. Stock 7.8:1CR 6bolt internals. This was done with e85 and he's running quite conservative timing for e85 and such low compression (sloooow burn), basically stock timing. This is good results with a conservative dyno, bolton housing, and small compressor wheel (1mm larger than the gt30r with more blades that increase cavitation and reduce flow for efficiency). Not to mention the stock CR and tune.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maglin
Matt glad to hear you're pretty much ready to go together.
Yea I messed with the bolton housing for a while. And now I want to step it with the stock housing. Like you've said not only does the top mount give you better fitment options and easier on the manifold, it allows you to really reduce the number of bends and straighten the shot into the turbine housing. It's a win-win.
____________________________
Matt
dd '90 GST, Holset H1C
Last edited by dsm-onster; 03-06-2009 at 07:15 AM.
On my H1E the TH outlet v band is slightly larger than 3". IE. I tried to put my 3" SS V band on it and the clamp is just to small to work. I think you could mill it down to get a 3" V band to work. The stock Cummings down pipe is cast so you really can't use that either. You can always get in contact with some of the diesel builders out their and get a clamp and flange from them if you want perfect fitment.
I've actually decided to weld my 4" Vband to the stock HX52 flange. It's larger than 4" on the outside and just a tad smaller than 4" on the actual outlet ID. I want a perfect fit that has the ring seal so I don't have any exhaust leaks. I also don't like the oil inlet using a flange with a pipe just like most oil outlets. I'm looking to tap out the inlet so I can install a normal -4 AN fitting.
BTW. I don't know what people are doing for a harmonic balancer, but I just got the ATI unit in and OMFG. It's very very sexy. Being I'm looking to run past 8K on a very regular basis I wanted the best dampener available. The ATI unit fit the bill. For those thinking of saving the $100 and getting the Fluidampr unit I would definitely recommend the ATI unit. It's just a very well thought out unit. The Fluidampr unit bolts on to the stock crank TB gear making it possible to not be true.
I was test fitting some components last night and man their is such a hugh size difference between the H1E and HX52 compressor housing I'm starting to wonder if I'm going to have some clearance issues. I'm already planning on running the fan as a pusher again on the new aluminum radiator. I can't really do a good mock up as my head I'm using is at the machine shop getting all the works. I have 2 other heads laying around but I really like to use the parts I'm going to use for mock up. Just the small amount of mill the head gets could make a noticeable difference on clearance.
____________________________
Jeremiah
92 Talon TSi (HX52 install in works)
So would an 8-blade HX40 compare more to a bolt-on 30r than a bolt on 35r? Looking at the compressor wheel sizes it seems to be right in between, but performance wise seems to hang with the 35r's. It definitely outspools them both.
____________________________
Josh
Holset Hx40 powered in '09
alright so i have had my 7-blade hx-35 on for a couple of months now with a .55 Bolt on BEP. I think it spools to fast for my taste, call me crazy but anywhere from 3600-redline if i give it more than 15% throttle im hitting full boost, its either no boost or full boost because once that wheel starts spooling theirs no stopping it unless i let off the gas. so i have decided im going to go with the 12^cm housing in a T3 Manifold. my question is how do i go about building a downpipe for it? I know i need the Ebay adapter plate but as far as bends go which ones do i need and where to get them?
So would an 8-blade HX40 compare more to a bolt-on 30r than a bolt on 35r? Looking at the compressor wheel sizes it seems to be right in between, but performance wise seems to hang with the 35r's. It definitely outspools them both.
An 8-blade HX40 60 lbs/mins falls right in between the 30r 52 lbs/mins and 35r 65 lbs/mins power wise yet it spools faster than both of them. If you want to overpower a 35r the 6-blade or 7-blade would do it both power and spool wise.
It should at least be a faster spooling viable option to the full t3/t4 50-trim.
Does anyone know how much boost he was running when he made 530+whp? The Dynapak graph looked like it said 44psi, but I'm not sure if that is accurate or even possible with his setup on E85.
Yea I just dont wanna change out my mani too!
?
I pmed 1fast to ask if he is really on a 6-bolt with stock internals, didn't ask about the boost though. 
