anyway to fixed a cracked exhaust housing on 14b?

[asd_gst]

is there anyway to fix a crack in the housing or anywhere to buy a new housing for a 14b the hot side?

[bastarddsm]

You can try to get some nickle rod and stick weld the crack...

[tkelly27]

Just find a used 14b. Or take it to a welding shop. Where is the crack? Is it all the way through? If it's where the turbine sits you will probably want another housing, if it's just cosmetic, deal with it! : )

[asd_gst]

its on the inside where the flapper for the wastegate sits, so the air will get through even when the wastegate is closed
and you cant weld cast im pretty sure if you do it will just crack in a month or week

[HIGHPSI4]

How big is the crack? If it is small, port out the wastegate hole to minimize the exhaust gases passing it. If it is small, it will tend to seal up as it gets hot. If it is really deep buy another.

[asd_gst]

ok i found another but will a evo3 turbine housing fit a 14b?

[fwdmaster]

Originally Posted by asd_gst

ok i found another but will a evo3 turbine housing fit a 14b?

Yes,the evo3 hotside will fit the 14b,I have one on mine

[asd_gst]

Originally Posted by fwdmaster

Yes,the evo3 hotside will fit the 14b,I have one on mine

how much bigger is it? do you notice a differnce in spool? not like i care im just wondering

[tkelly27]

It's really easy to weld cast iron, people do it all the time. The big issue is letting the piece cool slowly, the cracks come from going from the welding temperature to the cooler temp too fast. It's the 7cm vs. the 6cm housing if I remember correctly, you could probably search for 7cm 14b and find something.

[asd_gst]

how do you control how fast it cools?

[big_d]

My brother did this to his 14b hotside. We ended up gasket porting it to a 7cm. He hits full spool in the mid 2k range. It all depends on how badly the housing is cracked.

[turboglenn]

Originally Posted by asd_gst

how do you control how fast it cools?

In your oven or with an oxycetaline torch using either a laser temp guage or temperature marker/crayons so you know where you're at on heat. Bring it to about 450-550* F and then only weld about a 1/2 to an inch at a time and then put it back in the oven untill the temperatures equall out and then start welding again. It's not so much the speed at which it cools, but the forces of the expanding and contracting of 2 areas of the part that are too far off from each other on temperature.. It's basically the hot metal fighting the cool metal.

Due to the nature of cast iron, no matter how good of a welder some one is every time you weld cast exhaust manifolds it's a roll of the dice on if it holds. The thousands of heat cycles they go through combined with all the carbon deposits from burnt fuels passing through it contaminate the metal to where sometimes it just can't be fixed or at least won't hold. ANd that's on top of the fact that there are so many different alloys used in cast iron parts that it will start to feel like it requires a different technique and machine settings in order to get a good weld every time you do a different part.

I would say about 80% of the time with proper prep they can be fixed. And the nickel rod that is used to weld cast can be smoothed with a porting bit or carbide bur and will clean up really nicely and make it fit perfectly again.

[fwdmaster]

Originally Posted by asd_gst

how much bigger is it? do you notice a differnce in spool? not like i care im just wondering

The stock 6cm exhaust outlet is 2" while the evo3 housing is 7cm and has a 2.5" exhaust outlet,for me spool was better as well as midrange/topend

[asd_gst]

Originally Posted by fwdmaster

The stock 6cm exhaust outlet is 2" while the evo3 housing is 7cm and has a 2.5" exhaust outlet,for me spool was better as well as midrange/topend

alright cool, my friend is sending me a evo3 housing