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BOV issues, Compressor surge

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wangboy925

15+ Year Contributor
160
0
Oct 5, 2006
Melbourne, Florida
My car seems to shut down after doing a high boost run and I hear a small flutter which leads to compressor surge. Here is the pic of the engine bay and way I get the BOV set up. Since the J-pipe has no nipple I can't tap the boost contoller there so i tapped it with a Tee to the BOV vac hose. I seen this done before in pics. And I have it recirculated. I can't figure out whats wrong.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/wangbojy925/Picturecar057.jpg
 
Since the J-pipe has no nipple I can't tap the boost contoller there so i tapped it with a Tee to the BOV vac hose.

There's your problem. This is a big NO NO!! :thumb:

Just because you see it in other pictures does not mean it is the correct way to do things.

Tap it somewhere else other than off your BOV line. Try having a nipple welded onto your j-pipe and run it off of there. Or drill/tap your compressor housing to get a boost reference. Get one as close to your turbo as possible. Your MBC should have a vent in it as most/all do. This is not allowing your BOV to see the correct boost reference to keep it shut under boost and enough vac to open it up properly.
 
Ight thanks guys. I'll see if I can get a nipple welded on there. I hoped that it didn't have to come to this. Rather save the money for that labor. How much should it cost anyways it get the nipple welded on there? Im thinking around $20.00.
 
with my old j-pipe (for my 16g)i bought a brass nipple from kragen and just drilled and tapped the hole in the j-pipe for it. It never boost leaked or came out or anything, just screwed right in there.

This time now that im running a bigger turbo for more boost, i went ahead and had a nipple welded on the LICP. Either should work fine, its just a matter of preference.
 
i bought a brass nipple from kragen and just drilled and tapped the hole in the j-pipe for it. It never boost leaked or came out or anything, just screwed right in there.


I did this as well and just for extra insurance I put a light coating of high temp RTV around it to keep a nice seal in the event it does leak.
People always poke it and ask "whats that?".:shhh:
 
I did this as well and just for extra insurance I put a light coating of high temp RTV around it to keep a nice seal in the event it does leak.
People always poke it and ask "whats that?".:shhh:

Heh, did the same exact thing and get the same exact response. It works well though, or maybe so JB Weld. Drill and tap a 1/4 Nipple into your LIC as close to the turbo as you can, screw it in not to tight now, and go around the seam with high temp rtv or jb weld. :thumb:
 
I hooked up the Boost controller to the vac port P on the throttle body and it worked fine but my max boost before was 15-16psi and now after switching vac locations I saw it jump to 17-18psi. I may have accidentally turned the knob on the boost controller?
 
Let me know if it was you "accidentally turning the knob" or not, I want to know it this will work. I just had problems tapping my boost gauge into the "p" line. Real sparatic boost readings, jumping up and down, not very accurate. So let me know, thanks. :thumb:
 
Im not seeing sparatic boost readings when I tapped into the P nipple on the TB. I turned down the boost controller to 14psi and it held solid with no creep. I'm 99% positive I didn't turn the boost controller up but my problem is solved with another problem left to be taken care of. BOV compressor surge.
 
I fixed the problem. The little hole on the bottom of the 1g BOV was blocked off by some RTV gasket maker. So I removed the gunk and had some paper custom gasket stuff and it works now. The BOV sounds kinda quiet though
 
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